Figured I'd start a thread, show some pics. This is all motor stuff I been working on. My unheated basement shop is just barely warm enough to do some painting. Light coats, long dry times, but at least I can try and get the motor done before it gets nice out and I'm back at it on the 14T. Bonnet got 1st coat of etching primer this a.m., cowl 2nd, PT&T brackets, cylinders and pump are done. Everything but the pump is metallic, pump is gloss black.
Thank you Mark. Tomorrow morning I will be suspending the '63 Merc 1000 near my shop bench to get going on the LU stuff and get good coverage on areas that would be difficult to get with it on it's engine stand.
Frank, Your attention to detail is amazing. The work on the trim pump is great. I didn't even try on mine, it looks like it is, uh, 40 years old. Just too many nooks and crannys for me.
When you get back to the boat, I have just a humble suggestion. I would consider spraying the deck. The brush work is fine, but I wonder if you will ever get the level of perfection you strive for. Does Brian have a spray rig you could use? I just hate to see you redoing it again and want to see you IN THE WATER!
My attention to detail is driven by my physical ability to get some stuff done while I can. With an unheated garage, this is about all the damage I can do. Shop lately has been staying 50 and above. Days are getting longer too. Kind of exciting eh?
The really stupid thing about the trim pump is where it's gonna go no one will see it anyways!
Started cleaning the LU prior to initial sanding and did some other motor stuff today. I'm taking off the coil and starter brackets to clean, sand and paint and then replace my old starter with the freshly painted newly rebuilt one.
I have friends that tell me they're coming over with a spray gun this spring. I have an old fashioned one (not the gravity feed), but have never used it. Sometimes I think I should just give it a try and see what happens. Actually I am following the foam brush technique Brian uses. I don't believe he owns a spray gun.
There's a lot more to do than just paint. A small portion of the hull lip needs to be rebuilt for the rub rail to install correctly on the deck edge, then new rub rail needs to get fitted, and the interior box seam glassed. I figure it will need two more coats of primer, and then two or three of top coat.
'63 Merc 1000 motor brackets (coils, rectifier, starter, etc.) Cleaned, sanded, cleaned again, and now primed. Hours of work, now it's just a few light coats of self etching primer, than mostly silver metallic and one or two red metallic.
Getting this done pretty much finishes paint I'm going to do "under cover." This frees me up to keep working below the middle cowl cleaning and sanding before primer. I may be done for the day, but I doubt it. Paint in the morning before we leave for work so vapors dissipate during the day.
Morning Frank, lookin' good buddy. I can't wait to see this Merc when it's finished. I was about to ask about the stripes, but you mentioned the tape so that explains that. Have you got the decals for the motor yet? I remember seeing a thread somewhere that somebody has them available...
Hope you have plenty of fresh air coming into the basement, don't want you breathing in too many paint fumes and going goofey on us.
Thanks Mark. I'm not sure if I'm going to put decals on. We'll see. I do believe they are still available.
I don't have a lot of fresh air coming into the basement, but I wear a mask when painting and often even when hand sanding. I'm goofy enough without paint fumes to add to it...
Here's a pic of the tape box. Neat stuff. It's 1" wide. Has a 1/4" strip on one side, a 3/16 strip on the other side, and 1/16 pull-outs in-between. The raised stuff on the cowl is 5/16, so I use one side with the 1/4" and one 1/16 pull out, then use the other 3/16 side and two 1/16 pull outs.
Hey Frank, if you are looking for decals this guy has 'em. I got a set for my 1957 Johnson 18 HP and they are REAL nice. He is in Canada so it took a couple weeks to get 'em (I was pretty nervous) but they are the real deal.
Thanks guys, you're okay! I have that site bookmarked from a while ago. I need to take it easy on $ till we get our federal tax bill paid, then I'll probably get a set. No rush, motor is not done yet! Getting there though. Had a meeting late tonight, but should be able to move ahead substantially over the next few days. Pics soon!
First I prepped the cowl. Cleaned it, wiped it down, sanded with 180 all the black. Did the raised stuff with 220, it was in bad shape, but cleaned up good. Once that was done, cleaned and wiped the whole thing down again, then using striping tape, taped off the raised strips. Three coats of self etching primer and three coats of finish (black metallic), pulled the tape off last night. Voila! Nice clean edged raised strips.
3rd coat of the bonnet this a.m., almost done. Tonight I need to finish prepping the LU for 1st coat of primer, then do that tomorrow a.m. before work. Spring's coming, or so they say...
ok Frank.. now I'm confused. What are the silver stripes? Paint, tape? I thought you had sprayed the black, then taped off and sprayed the silver. Now I'm guessing you sprayed the silver first and then applied the fineline tape before spraying the black..
Don't worry about being confused. That is my general state of mind...
I believe the cowl is stainless, but I may be wrong. Those so-called stripes are integral to the metal, i.e., they are metal, and I assume just raised stainless. They are on all these Mercs of similar vintage. Not paint, not tape, metal. They were badly corroded, but cleaned up very nice. Once I had the entire cowl sanded (black stuff as well as those raised metal stripes), I used that pull-out section tape and taped the stripes off. (The stripes are 5/16" wide.) Then once the painting was done, I pulled the tape. Worked great.
I will now shoot a couple of coats of clear over everything on the exterior of the motor, i.e. bonnet, cowls, and LU. For that, I wanted the stripes tape off.
Make sense? Please feel free to ask any questions. Questions help, as I've never done anything like this before.
I'm so enthused to be doing something for my boat it's not even funny Mark. Ever since I bought this boat, I've had major problems every year that have kept me from it. I've learned not to make predictions anymore. Everything I do now I do much slower. The amount of work (time?) necessary to finish the boat has become daunting. Ergo, I strike while the iron is hot.
I hope to at least start getting the motor back together this coming weekend. I need to re-wire some parts of the PT&T, then need to adapt it to my motor. More than enough to do!
Based on my prior experience, I assume you are doing better and better each day right?
Oh you are so right on, the enthusiasm continues as if we were still twenty something, but the physical restrictions of becoming older (and hopefully wiser) must be dealt with. "Allnighters" in the garage working on hotrods were a part of life, but now a few hours here and there as possible are a more realistic goal.
I think the progress on your project is commendable, I'm quite envious. Wiring has never been one of my strong suites, but after the harness repairs on my 700 FGS, I guess I've learned enough to get by marginally. The Glastron needs much work in this area, but I'm putting that off until the engine tune up work is completed.
Right now everything is on hold until the wounds from surgery heal, so the frustration factor is about a 9.5! I am feeling a little better every day, you're right on the money there. I should be glad it wasn't worse, laying in the hospital bed for three days waiting for an O.R. opening could have been tragic, since it turns out part of my intestine was trapped outside the abdomen! I'm going to try it today without the pain meds, they seem to be limiting my already minimal common sense. I did manage to go to work yesterday for a few hours to get some paperwork caught up, so we'll take it one day at a time.
Ten years ago it wasn't a problem at all to be up all night working steadily on my hot rod Mark, a much more complicated project than this boat. The boat is taking a lot longer to get done. Therein lies my story.
Wiring is easy. Get a good wire crimper (my good one is a Craftsman), make sure your crimps hold (I tug hard on them to be sure), then get used to using Liquid Electrical Tape. The stuff is amazing. I drip a bit from the can top brush into the terminal end to cover the wire, then a bit on the other wire end to fill up the plastic sheath of the terminal, and it seals for all time. Well, I haven't tested that all time thing, but anything I've used it on over the last 15 to 20 years stayed sealed.
Good luck with coming off the pain meds. That's the first step. You'll be fine.
Good luck, Frank. You're coming down the home stretch now man. The fact that you have your tasks laid out in order indicates your organizational skills are in fact up there with the high quality of your workmanship, so the finish line is definitely in sight. Keep us posted on your progress, buddy.
Thanks Mark. So much of it depends on weather. In the short term, more snow has to melt for me to even get at the boat. Unfortunately, the only place my guy could plow snow was right where I need to go to get at the boat. On top of that, all this plowed up snow is in a sun shadow, so will be about the last snow to melt. Once I can get at the boat, and the temps stay above 50, I can do the early glass and fill work. This weekend I'll work at getting the garage ready to turn into a temporary paint booth. My back hasn't been great this week, so I need to always keep that in mind too.
Glad to hear you're doing better. Won't be long till you're back at it!
No pun intended. You can see in the "repair" pic where I had to cut out part of the hull lip because it fit the deck too tight. That's on for tomorrow, and maybe a bit more work, like dealing with places that got wet over the winter and the primer blistered. Finally, the space between the two metal poles and the other wall is going to be my temporary paint booth in a few weeks.
I'll have some full dress shots of the merc probably Sunday I'll share with you folks. Taking care of a little detail work.
Maybe this will work. Hull lip was too far "out" for the rub rail to fit the deck lip. So I cut a piece of glass out of my old splash pan, fitted it to the cut out hull lip area, held it in place with a piece of 1/8" hardboard covered in foil sprayed with PAM for my mold release, screwed everything together to hold it in place, and just now glassed it in. Maybe it will work, maybe not. If not, need another brilliant idea.
My problem with fitment here was that the boat had been smashed at this location and very poorly repaired. When I removed the deck, I fixed the smashed area in the hull separate from the deck, not thinking that maybe when they got put back together they would be too tight (or too loose). Well, they were too tight over that entire repaired area. I been at this pretty much all morning!
Well, after spending nearly all morning trying to figure out the best way to fix the boat, looks as though I was not successful. I've run out of ideas I guess. Wish I could get it right, but nope. Plus the whole deck needs to be sanded again (moisture got under the primer), and I don't know if I have it in me. Bah.
Frank, you're on the right track, but instead of trying to patch in an old piece, you need to built it up with new material.
The idea you had for a "form" is the part that is on the right track.
You need to build the form and screw it to the outside of the hull. The best material to use is thin melamine paneling like they use for the cheap wall paneling. This material needs hardly any release agent which is why all the fabricators use it. You will want to wax it anyway, and or use PVA release agent. When you wax it just make sure you let the wax dry before you start coating. I sometimes spray some PVA on it as well, but this is probably overkill.
You will need to taper the inside of the adjoining hull material and step your build up material as for any other repair.
You can then start your layup with gel coat if desired, (it will make a nice smooth waterproof outer layer even though you are painting over it). After the gel has started to kick, a thin layer of mat will be next followed by alternating layers of cloth and mat. Build up no more than four layers at a time so as not to cook the resin. You may want to end up with some heavy roving for one of the inner layers, followed by mat for the last layer to keep it all water tight.
edit: You know, looking at it again, you could just do this after the lid is on and save yourself the trouble of making the form. You're planning on glassing it together anyway right?
Dave, that is melamine. The piece I fit in to where I had cut the hull lip out was screwed to the melamine and the melamine was screwed on both ends to good hull lip forming a curve that matched right up with the curve of the hull. Maybe it's not the hull lip I need to rebuild, maybe it's the deck lip. I have no clue. Plus the deck lip hardly fits down over the hull lip on the starboard side. I think maybe I can force it when the time comes to get the rub rail on IF I can get the rub rail on. And yes, I fully plan to glass the interior seam with probably 2-3 layers of mat, each successive one being a bit wider than the previous.
Guess I need to sleep on it, as I'm not happy, and feel like saying heck with it. All the time I've spent on this boat, all the work and effort, and come so close to the end, and I'm just at a loss. It was more of a project than I ever should have taken on. The optimism of ignorance...
I just got back from a 2 hour cruise in my hot rod. I built that from scratch and been driving it since '01. Least I got one summer toy that works!
Don't give up Frank, you're too close to being done! I know you're frustrated, sometimes taking a break from the project is necessary to maintain your sanity, buddy. Wish I knew something about fiber-glassing, I'd drive up and help you. (I don't know squat about it, except I love these boats. ) Hope you get it fingered out pal.