TOPIC: Remote gas tank dent removal

Any tips to remove dents from a 50's vintage Johnson remote tank?

Thank you,

Randy

I've never done it myself, but I have heard that water pressure will pop out the dents. Also, you could try a large suction cup or plunger to pull the dents out.

Those tanks are pretty heavy duty for a suction cup,doubt that would work.Pressure would probably work,but I think you might want to try something besides air,that could be a ticking time bomb as 90 psi ain't gonna do it,more like 400-700 psi and that is just a guess.A lot of times when your using air, heat is required and that being a gas tank has me thinking explosion. I might try one of those dent removal guys that frequent the collision shops.Or if I had access to a large freezer I would fill the tank up or maybe 95% and then plop it in the freezer,that will pop any dent out.Might have to start out with less water and work your way up depending on the results and location of dent/dents.

You really can't remove dents. I've used "lab metal" to fill small dents, but you can find tanks on Craigslist for $25.

Un-dented 1950's OMC pressure tanks are really not all that cheap. I spent several times that for a working pressure tank with a broken hose holder. Might talk to a rental place or a body shop about a "stud welder". Make sure there are no gas fumes left first....

Every time I edit when using my dumb smartphone it double posts......sorry again.

those old tanks are rather thick/tough. you might get a paintless dent guy to give you an estimate. if just some small dents, I'd fill them. if it has a lot of damage I'd consider a replacement. john

Oldskier wrote:

Every time I edit when using my dumb smartphone it double posts......sorry again.

My phartsmone won't even log into the site to give me a double post...

Harbor Freight has a paintless dent removal kit for like $30. I used it for a couple of small dents on a car hood caused by......well anyway it worked really well as long as the metal hasn't stretched too far or creased in any way. Otherwise use the metal fill trick, I learned from an old timer how to "lead" seams on body panels. Truly a lost art, that and the EPA would crap bricks if they caught you doing it.

There are two ways to remove dents on these tanks.
1) use a simple automotive body filler (bondo) and sand down to a prep grit of 400-500. Prime it and paint it.

2) If you are not into the body filler idea, you will need to use a stud welder and then use the dent puller for the stud. Prior to using the stud welder you will need to fill the tank with water. Never ever weld any gas tank without completely filling with water. Even the slightest air pocket could cause catastrophic results. Had a friend have a motorcycle tank explode on him while patching a hole.
I restore these tanks and love to do it. From the 50's single line pressurized single line to the 60's tanks that are dual line. I have only use a stud welder on two of them because the dents were creased. All of the others I have used filler because it is just not worth the risk to weld when filler is easy and safe. To me it doesn't take any originality out of it at all. It is clean and if the paint is correct and you decide to put decals on it....it already isn't original after that.
Hope this helps.
Tim