TOPIC: Stripping Varnish

Using my usual favorite stripper for varnish, Zip Strip, I think I need to turn this into a summer job. I have the interior of the boat about 1/2 stripped, with the idea of doing the outside of the varnished hull next. My gawd, just 2 hrs. of using that stuff and I am almost concerned I may not live to finish it. Yes, I had heavy rubber gloves on, but I didn't wear a mask. I wish I had a pressurized type of mask for this. Even with the heavy rubber gloves and no stripper got through, my hands were on fire. My lungs feel like they are screaming for something. Never had trouble like this before. But I also never did this in an enclosed heated garage before. It is 20ºF out, do I open the doors and do a few things fast, find a different stripper,wait for warmer weather? This stuff is probably truly killing me. Maybe if I prop a door open with a fan pulling out the toxic air, it will help. But I need to make sure I don't do anymore that an hour. 2hrs. breathing that stuff about rang my bell.

Dave,
You definitely need to use a respirator. I use one from Harbor freight. It works fine. Also maybe opening a window with a fan or door pulling out the toxic air would be a very good idea.

Bob

A respirator may help some, however many of the chems (air born) can and will be adsorbed through the skin.

Per the MSDS the air should be changed (in the area that you are using it) every 10 to 15 minutes

take care...nothing is worth one's health



www.perma.com/stripper/msds115.htm

TT wrote:

take care...nothing is worth one's health

Dave, PLEASE either wait until you can do this task outside, or at least have the doors and windows open and a fan running to recirculate the air in there! It's not worth risking lung damage, brain damage, or death to get this done right now. Not sure if a heat gun would do the trick, but Motherofdog had great success stripping her boat that way. (See thread in this section.)
www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/wood-boats/interesting-find-during-sea-mac-stripping

I know you guys are right, nothing is worth doing this to your health. I will check with Harbor Freight about a respirator. I will also still leave a door or window open while stripping and limit my time in the fumes. Maybe even take some of the stuff outside for a quicky strip. Of course, now thinking about it, it is probably going to be bad when I put the varnish on as well. I will be using Ephanes(sp) varnish. I feel ok this morning, but when I started this thread. wow.

Dave,
Definitely use the respirator for both stripping and applying. I use mine for everything now, including any woodworking I do and I do alot! When I stripped my Clipper I did it outside and still wore it. I applied the Epifanes while the boat was in the "shed" (12' x 28') with the front door (garage size) open, back entry door open and both side windows open with a fan in one drawing the air through and out, of course while wearing the respirator.

As was said, you can't be too careful when it comes to your health. After having the top portion of my right lung removed due to a very infected cyst, I wear my respirator alot now. Don't know if all the previous woodworking without a mask caused it but don't want to find out again.

Bob

Just back from Lowe's and I now have a 3M respirator ready to go. I don't remember the no. but I also bought 2 additional filters that as supposed to prevent these fumes from getting to you. I am sure it is not a 100% fail safe, but, if I limit my exposure on a day by day basis, it should help, I hope. I will probably hold off a few days, for my hands and help my lungs feel a little better. I will also try a different stripper "Citrus Strip". That doesn't meant though I will not use the respirator for I will, just want to see if it is not as toxic. I am still trying to think of what to use for preventing skin absorption. I had real heavy rubber stripping gloves on when I was using this stuff. Like all winter projects, my intent was to have the boat ready when spring arrives, I guess I will just have to be a little slower with my project. You have no idea how this rocked my world.

I am sure my ability is surly compromised by the cancer I have as well.(thyroid cancer with mets to liver, lungs, spine, femurs, pelvis and skull. This is why I am trying to somewhat bust butt, to get this boat done by boating time. But, if a person kept using these products without protection, it won't be from the original illness that "gets you".

You should also use a Haz Mat suite too.

You are right. Picked one up at Home Depot this afternoon. Now, I hope I can work on the boat with cautious abandon.

Glad to hear that. Just be very careful with dangerous chemicals.

Hi Dave,

I too have had a bout with "following the little animals" when stripping our Sea Skiff-even with mask, gloves and an open garage. It really helps to get a fan blowing the bad stuff out a open window or door.

I don't think I would recommend the heat gun on varnish, though it was fantastic on paint. It just is too easy to scorch varnished wood and then you can't cover it with paint.

Just my 2 cents.

jer

Jer, Thanks for your input. So I am not alone with this. Not that it matters, as I am sure it affects everyone differently. I will of course use all the "equipment" I have now and place a fan in the window. If I do this kind of like in short time shifts, maybe no more than an hour each time. You really do get quite a bit done in an hour of stripping. Unfortunately, once you start varnishing, you are at least committed to the area you are working on. There is a lot of hull that is varnished. I sure hope I can get this boat all completed by boating season.

Jer, did you have trouble applying the varnish also?

Dave

Hi Dave,

My experience so far with varnishing has been limited to the transom of our Sea Skiff. Small area that's flat... idea for my limited knowledge. I sanded the transom down and removed the previous name, then stained it because I had a "ghost" light spot where the name was.

My dear friend and boat restorer Richard Arnold gave me a lesson on sanding and using the roll and tip method of varnish. The good thing is that if I messed up and got a run, I could lightly sand it and do it again.

Because my area was so small, it took longer to get my supplies together and prepped than to put another layer of varnish on!

One thing on varnishing, get the best badger brush you can. Use that brush for one thing only-varnish. When you are finished, clean it and massage some mineral oil in the bristles and wrap it up. Then when you're ready to do another layer of varnish, clean the brush to get the mineral oil off.

I've got to sand and revarnish the entire interior of my Sea Mac. I think that's going to be a real learning experience!

I use foam brushes with great success. NO clean-up.

Andreas

two books that i found helpful to learn the correct way of varnishing and painting are:
BRIGHTWORK the art of finishing wood by Wittman
PAINTING AND VARNISHING from the woodenboat series


all the paint and varnish was roll and tip,using foam rollers and brushes

That is great to know! I was hoping they worked well. Both from a cost stand point and also convenience. A good brush is expensive to buy and to clean it is too. I like the throw away feature!