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TOPIC: whirlwind 1961 my next project

whirlwind 1961 my next project 8 months 2 weeks ago #141254

hello,

I just bought this boat and am looking forward to fixing it up. So to help me keep track of things I will post from time to time.

Should I post it in the members projects forum or here???

Your tips, comments etc. will be welcome. I have refinished some furniture in my past so this will be fun. Old classic wood boats look so so cool. I just finished a 1959 Lakensea posted in the members projects section. I hope i can get this done faster than that boat lol
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whirlwind 1961 my next project 8 months 2 weeks ago #141255

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Looks like a great project. All the parts seem to be there. I'd post in the member projects since that thread is not gender specific ie. wood, alum, glass, etc.
Looking forward to results. Do it while you are still enthused and fired up.

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 8 months 1 week ago #141274

thanks i have set up a post in the projects section.
weather also holds me back as sadly I do not have an enclosed climate controlled workshop :(

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 8 months 1 week ago #141278

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If move the front seat to the rear and get rid of that egg beater, you'll have space for a small block Chevy. Just an idea.

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 7 months 1 day ago #141557

that's an idea,

but i don't want the project to out live me. lol

I am going to enjoy getting that wood all smooth and shinny lol

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 2 months 3 days ago #142276

getting started on stripping it

any suggestions about the next steps im doing some research
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whirlwind 1961 my next project 2 months 3 days ago #142279

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Fantastic start. One piece at a time. Looking good.
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whirlwind 1961 my next project 2 months 3 days ago #142285

Good progress so far.

Bob
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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 4 weeks ago #142312

I'm posting the progress in the members projects section

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 3 weeks ago #142335

sanding finished and i ordered CPES next step

any comments on stains, brands and colors, orange - red ????

i do not want it dark

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 3 weeks ago #142342

I may be wrong here, and I will be corrected by those who know more , but I think you are going to want to stain before the CPES. Once you put that on, the stain will not penetrate into the wood. That is the way I did it a couple years ago when I replaced the transom on my Thompson. I also used a filler stain, which I believe was Interlux brand. It wasn't cheap, but it goes a long ways because you have to thin it before you use it. The stain fills the grain and will give you a lot smoother finish. It looks great when you are done. I believe it was Red Mahogany color, but I am not positive. My brother in law is using it right now to re-stain the wood on his early 70's Boston Whaler. I hope that helps.
Bill

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 3 weeks ago #142344

the way i read the cpes instructions is to use the cpes as a base to fill then varnish ???? i will go back and check maybe even call them i m still waiting to get it shipped to me
thanks

red mahogany sound good :)

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 3 weeks ago #142345

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Back in the day.....when I was restoring my Century Sabre I was researching the sealers and was mailing back and forth with the inventor of the CPES. The product was never meant to be called that but the abbreviation stuck so they went with it. I had the same question you do. The epoxy sealer is water thin and penetrates deep into the wood to replace the dried out natural resins. Staining before you seal depending on what product you use can block the epoxy from penetrating deep. The advice was to use the epoxy sealer first and let it penetrate and dry a few days and then lightly sand to give your stain some bite. That's what I did with my Century. I then used Minwax stain and was careful to follow the grain. It did not appear to "soak" in but it did adhere without problems. After a few days of drying I lightly sanded again and put on seven coats of Minwax Helmsman clear acrylic. Never had to touch that finish ever. I sold the boat after five years.
If you have some "dry rot" (no such animal really) use the Smiths product Fill-It. That sutff works wonders and is easy to work with.
Caution.....Use the CPES outdoors!! the fumes are really bad.
A problem I did have was with "Total Boat" sealer.....that's a disaster, I would not recommend it to anyone. Talked with a few other wood boat people who had the same experience with that stuff.

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 3 weeks ago #142346

thank you very good info.
I was wondering what to use for the stain i don't want it dark i want to see the grain, red orange looks good to me.

i especially want to see it with a high high gloss, I think thats the fun cool part of the whole natural wood look sitting in water lol. Also I want something that will last as I don't want to keep repeating this process all the time.

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 3 weeks ago #142347

ok i guess this is the answer to how to proceed with the cpes staining and varnish

www.smithandcompany.org/staining.html

regards

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 3 weeks ago #142351

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AMEN! Told ya so :-)
Glad you looked it up and shared it. Straight from the horses mouth. Good luck on your project and keep us up on the progress.
I noticed there was nothing mentioned about those fumes. Be careful, very careful.

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 1 week ago #142461

Can anyone answer a question about stain? I bought interlux filler stain and some 333 stuff to thin it.
two questions 1. any comments on the ratio to use of stain to 333 thinner?
2. if i mix a large batch and don't use it all can i seal it up and use it later over the next few days or so?

i know when using the 2 part stuff it will only last a few hours or less
thanks much

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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 1 week ago #142466

So I have to admit I don't remember the exact ratio I did for my Wagemaker but I put some stain in a small plastic bowl and just poured a little 333 in at a time, mixed it up until I got it thinner than peanut butter. If you use a good sealable container you should be ok to save for a day or so. it will completely harden up after a couple days. I started first thing in the morning and progressed until I got everything done. If it's a big job I would guestimate about how much I needed then go for it. That thinner makes it spread easy but wicks off fairly quickly.

Bob
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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 1 week ago #142476

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I use the same Interlux Chris Craft stain. I thin it with regular mineral spirits until it "looks right" to me...about like heavy cream. I put it on with clean shop rags, let it sit there for maybe five minutes and then wipe off as much as will come off. In a sealed container, it will keep almost indefinitely, certainly weeks. I don't like the "solid" staining technique where most of the grain is completely hidden.

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Website: NautilusRestorations.com

Mentor to the unenlightened!

"Never allow logic to interfere with a boat purchase." - J. S. Hadley
"Vintage quality beats new junk every time." - J. S. Hadley
"Anything supposed to do two things does both of them half-assed." - J. S. Hadley
"Success makes...

whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 1 week ago #142504

thanks for your response. Boy that boat is fantastic. I did start by testing spots that will be under the floor boards. And i finally got to a point that i liked the mixture. whereit starts to drip off the brush, used a paint brush with the bristles cut short and used is to kind of scrub the stain into the wood, used burlap to wipe up, did not wait long 1-2 min. across the grain then finished wiping with the grain. As i do want to see the grain show thru. I did a very watery 2ed coat and quickly wiped it off the same way.
A few pics
i am thinking of using TotalBoat Gleam Marine Spar Varnish
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whirlwind 1961 my next project 1 month 6 days ago #142509

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Nice job, I think you found the right combo. Whatever works for the technique. Post pictures after you get it varnished.

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