TOPIC: Glue for tackle box plastic?

This season I bought two new Plano tackle boxes. Great quality but the little slip-in dividers don't fit snugly in their grooves and sometimes they lift up a little, and hooks, lines and sinkers migrate from one compartment to the next. I thought I would just tack the dividers in place with a little glue. No way! I've gone through 4 kinds of glue for plastics including PVC pipe glue and plastic model glue and silicone glue and nothing sticks at all to this plastic. When the glue dries, you can lift it right off with a thumbnail and it doesn't even leave a mark.

Anyone know what kind of glue works with this stuff? It's a semi flexible plastic. The boxes as well as the dividers are made of the stuff. Help!

Try:
3M 5200 or 5100
or OSI Quad (about the same thing and at Home Depot)
Epoxy from one of those double syringe dispensers.

And it that don't work Harbor Freight as a plastic welding rig you can tack it in with.

Mark

Thanx, I may try the plastic welding. Hoping to stay with something transparent (or translucent) and I love 5200 but it's hard to control in detail work.

norm, I have some glue that is for models. works on wood and plastic. you can get it at hobby stores. they call it CA . it stands for cynanid acctulate.( or something like that.) holds very good, but do not get on your fingers. it comes in thin, med, and thick. sticks in a few seconds. get the nozzles with it, as it comes out fast and you do not need to use much. I fixed my wifes veggie drawer with it 5 years ago and it is still holding. just my 2 cents. greg

The glue frog was talking about is Cyanoacrylate also known as super glue. Super glue is fantastic stuff. I use it for model building, and repairing almost anything you can think of except metal. However I suggest you buy a very small tube for a couple of bucks before you buy a large amount, and try it out. It does not work with some plastics. Most plastics work fine, and so does wood and fabric, but do not get it on your skin, it adheres instantly. Fortunately acetone or fingernail polish remover will dissolve it. When using this stuff always keep a bottle of finger nail polish remover handy.

Try a craft shop and get a tube of "Tacky Glue" Couple bucks. Might just work fine.

Tried CA, no stick. I'll look for the tacky glue next time I travel to the "big city", or stop at harbor freight for a plastic welder. I did some searching and apparently this plastic is something called a Polyolefin and has something called low surface energy, which keeps these plastics from reacting to regular glues. I found a LocTite 2 part setup with a primer and an adhesive, but the plastic has to be heated with a torch to start the process. Considering how many small dividers I'd need to do, it's too labor intensive. Polyolefins include polyethylene and polypropylene.

I've used Plano boxes for years, they're great, but on the current generation of boxes the dividers are just made too thin to fit snugly in the plastic channels. I emailed Plano but so far no response...

Thanks guys for all the suggestions.

Polyolefin is in the same class of polymers as polyethylene. Hardly anything sticks to this stuff.

From the Wikipedia page: Polyolefin surfaces are not effectively joined together by solvent welding because they have excellent chemical resistance and are unaffected by common solvents. They can be adhesively bonded after surface treatment (they inherently have very low surface energies and don't wet-out well (the process of being covered and filled with resin)), and by some superglues (cyanoacrylates) and reactive (meth)acrylate glues.[2] They are extremely inert chemically but exhibit decreased strength at lower and higher temperatures.[3] As a result of this, thermal welding is a common bonding technique. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyolefin

Mylar is in this same class and is commonly used in boat building as a method to get stuff to not stick to a surface. Most resins and glues will not stick to mylar and can be peeled off easily.

Anywaay, sorry for te lesson. Jus sayin!

OK..don't over think this..(and STOP making me do more "experiments!)

I just tried some "Tacky Glue" on one my slot cars that has (not a Lexan body like said before), but think Mylar. You can "scrunch this in a ball", and pops right back into shape. We use it a lot for slot car racing stuff.

Well put some on it and waited a hour and ya gotta finger nail it off. Yep, its sticks. I have a chit house "toy models" in clear cases and a dab under the tires keep them in place. And easy off if needed.

And on a "town run?" No need to "town" Amazon cheap to yer door.

www.amazon.com/ALEENES-15599-Purpose-Glue-8-Ounce/dp/B00178KLEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417046403&sr=8-1&keywords=Tacky+glue

Great, that puts me over $35 on my wish list so free shipping too.

I bet this tacky stuff would be good to attach name plates and trim on to boats and motors? Is is weather resistant?

Normspeed wrote:

Great, that puts me over $35 on my wish list so free shipping too.

There ya go...always gotta get enough little stuff needed to "hit the limit!

l98tpi wrote:

I bet this tacky stuff would be good to attach name plates and trim on to boats and motors? Is is weather resistant?

This I'm not sure of, but I'll experiment some with it!

l98tpi wrote:

I bet this tacky stuff would be good to attach name plates and trim on to boats and motors? Is is weather resistant?

OK thinking it a bit this is not made for that. Its for indoor "craft projects", etc. For that I would go the spray adhesive. But the Tacky glue would work fine for "placement" then mark where the whatever will be attached. Then spray the whatever you are putting on, let it "tack" up a bit, and slam it home. Also if the Tacky glue don't hold the box inserts..(been there done that with dividers myself), maybe try the spray adhesive? Link..

www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Loctite+spray+adhesive

I was going with 3M industrial double sided assembly tape. Like car MFGs use for attaching trim these days. So back to that then.

l98tpi wrote:

I was going with 3M industrial double sided assembly tape. Like car MFGs use for attaching trim these days. So back to that then.

YEP!..as thats the way to go!

OK, did ya try the "Tacky Glue" yet? I'm curious! On that slot car mentioned with a .010 Lexan body that hold to the frame with tiny pins has .."well", been crashed many times. Body pins (4)loose and lost 2 already and where the body mounts the body has has cracked.
So simple tried the Tacky to mount and did one side yesterday. Seems fine hanging on. Doing the other side now and waiting for it to cure. It comes out white, and drys clear (dividers?...slather it on, slam it home") and 4/6 hours later can't even see it! And if wanted out, just yank it and rub it off.

My order from Amazon just came in, but I haven't had time to get gluing.

Plano never bothered to answer my query. I'll remember that when my grandkids need tackle boxes.

Robby, I fired up that Evinrude 70 a couple days ago. It sounds sweet. I think I got a good one there

Those old 3 C Rudes are great motors!

Instead of glue, could you pinch the channels to make a tighter fit?

Or, cut barbs on the edges of the dividers.

Either way you could still remove them if you want. But create enough friction to keep them in place.

Sounds like you'd need to do what I did to glue king starboard. Heat with a flame, sand lightly, then 5200. A lot of tedious work.

Tack weld with a soldering iron...

I think I might try Goop or ShoeGoo.

+1 For GOOP!

Yeah, maybe Goop! Forgot about that!

I finally got around to testing the Tacky Glue on several partitions last night. This morning I tried pulling them out and they stayed put. I'm sure if I pulled hard enough they would come loose, but for my purpose this stuff did the job. Thanks for all the great suggestions.

Seems like ya happy enough to post it twice! HA! Kidding.

Glad it worked as its some good stuff for things like that.