Here are pictures of our 1959 Dorsett Luxury Lexington. We bought it in September of 2014 in Salinas. CA and brought it home to Chico for restoration. The engine is a 1960 Johnson 75 hp Super Seahorse. The trailer is a Lil’ Dude that was modified, probably also 1959. Paid $ 1,100. for the package that included a big poly fuel tank, vintage water skis and tow ropes, and other misc. contents. The boat had been stored in a garage since 1994. We bought it from the estate of the original owner.
We got the engine running while it was on the boat. The fuel and vacuum lines were all leaking so I decided my first chore would be to replace all of them. Quite a project, 12 lines and 24 new clamps. Pulled the engine off and bolted it to a rolling stand. I was able to simply screw a cup holder into the sheet rock in the garage ceiling and pull the engine with a come along.
Interior without back seat. When we bought the boat the back seat was against the front seat facing the stern. There is an option for installing the back seat against the engine well facing forward. After upholstery we will install the back seat facing forward. It hinges for access to the battery and fuel tank(s). By the way, isn't that a nice big tank?
The trailer was a greasy mess. It had some poles welded on the sides to guide the boat onto the trailer, the leaf spring beam on the starboard side was moved over about a half inch and the fenders were modified to take larger wheels. I cut the poles off and started disassembling the trailer for sand blasting.
There were modifications to this trailer. Here the PO welded some blocks onto the front supports. I plan on leaving this assemblage alone and just sand blasting and painting. I suspect he did this because the bolts and support blocks would slip down while trailering.
Here is a picture of the right side of the trailer. The PO had cut off the leaf spring support and moved it inboard about 1/2". Why would he have done that? The fenders are just sitting on top of the tires, I took this pic after I unbolted them.
Here is a shot of the left wheel. When we bought the boat, the fenders had been modified with support extensions so the PO could have larger wheels. The wheels shown here are wheels that were in the boat. I think they are original. The wheels that were on the boat were larger.
Why do you think he was running larger wheels?
The 1960 Sears trailer I got yesterday is like that but the handle lowers both bunks..I have not had time to investigate it thoroughly but I do have the original assembly diagram and can take a picture if you think it might help? I wont have time to launch it till Monday but between lowering the bunks and tilting it seems like a pretty slick way to go. Perhaps yours is supposed to work the same way?
I'm lucky she is in such good shape and complete. No structural work needed. Basically just repaint trailer, polish the hull and jewelry, repaint speckle paint inside, new upholstery and tune up engine.
That should keep busy for the winter.
I've gone through 2 gallons of mineral spirits and i'm on my second parts brush cleaning the old grease off the trailer hitch, tounge jack and tounge jack wheel. 50 years of grease and dirt gets really sticky.
Hi Mike - looks like you're off to a roaring start on your project. I'm up in Redding, but I used to live in Chico about 20 years ago. I do come down to Chico from time to time for work and to visit friends. Any time you want to talk boats, just drop me a message -
Thanks! I took the boat completely apart, polished everything, then reassembled. The transom has had more than one repair. I took the cap off and opened the cracks a little with some small wedges, then poured some MAS epoxy in there and clamped the shit out of it. I ground and filled the surface cracks, then primed and painted the transom. Haven't had it out yet, so I don't know how the repair will hold. But, I suspect the damage was from trailering, so I bought a transom saver and will be installing that.
So the wood looked OK when you had the cap off? The reason why I ask is that I've had numerous experiences with mushy transoms and there is only one way to fix them for good. If the wood is bad, the transom saver is just putting off the inevitable. I'm not a fan of transom savers although it may get you by for a while.
The wood looked fine. There were #8 screws about 4" o.c. from the inside of the transom screwed into the wood. Too many to remove and too stuck. There was also some counter sunk screws, under the aluminum cap, going into the wood down into the transom. They were unmovable. They had a little corrosion, so I cleaned and sanded the heads and painted the top of the transom also. The wood was good. I think a 75 hp motor is a little heavy for this transom, hence the transom saver.
Those fat OMC's are pigs in weight so you may be correct. Just keep an eye on it. The good thing is they are a sweetheart of a motor when running right and the 75 is the best of the bunch, of the early ones. They can be a gas hog at WOT but if you back off just a bit, they are a lot better.
I once bought a Glastron Jetflite with a Mark 78A on it. The transom saver was the only thing keeping the motor on. The wood was all mush with the worst right where the transom saver was mounted. Course that was where the motor mounting holes are also. The weird thing is that glass didn't have a crack in it. I can tell you already know this but make sure to use 5200 or at the very least RTV silicone around every screw that goes through the transom.