TOPIC: the thread for the $3.50 glasspar lido progress

im going to use this thread for the start to finish progress of the glasspar lido,year still unknown,lol.
i went out this morning to take some pics,heck i even found a brown canvas cover that snaps on and covers the entire boat.
i need to find out the year of the boat and gator trailer,so i can register it,so any help would be appreciated.
here are the pics ,im amazed that all the hardware is still there and that the outside has never been painted,but i will have to paint it because of some small gell cracks and a total transom restoration.
next i have to get it into the garage.
the inside of the boat has been painted with what looks like house paint,that is peeling off,i see alot of scraping and sanding in my future,by the way,i think the 40 hp was too heavey for this boat,you can see where someone painted a black strip where the water line was,ill trade the 40 hp for a smaller motor,it has 2 hoods and even has the original starting rope with case. now that i look at the pic of the transom,its no wonder it went bad,the water line is up to the splashwell drain hole.

by the way ,i think this boat had a short shaft originaly,heres the motor that came with it,that i would trade for a smaller lighter one,john

John; The motor that is on it is a short shaft. The correct motor would be a 35hp from 1959 but they are so close to the same weight as the 1960 40hp I would look for a 1960 Evinrude Lark, Johnson Super Sea Horse Gale Sovereign, or a Merc 400
Here's a pic of my 1959 Lake N Sea Biscayne with a 1961 Gale 35hp which moves it along quite well

Al

J.G. CONGRATS, and still a great score. Those are Glasspar rear cleats. The drivers seat upper two brace brackets are original desirable as well as the under bottom brackets. I like very much the rear wood seat & color combo .
... With the N.J hull reg, should be able to scan motor vehicle records as to what is on file as any SERIAL #.? Glasspar one of few mfg that did attempt to put their own #'s from 59 or so .? Only the industry in 71 went to mandatory H.i.N. So could almost chose any year in the 60's if another member recognize the photo style . Prior owner give you ANY PAPERWORK .? If Penn is strict , you may have to write letter to last known registered owner address. ?

.. I do like the other suggestion of a MERC 400 if you wish to change motors. ? Should get lots of support from the VA & Chicago chapters of Glasspar owners. Keep looking on the floor or glove box for that small brass ID tag. Inside gray paint could be orig , but need to be redone for sure. .Just what you initially asked for. Again CONGRATS.

john,your lido is either a 61 or 62. the styling on the lido changed in 61 and by 63 the lido is not in the model listing. you can find all this in the glassic library. i would suggest checking the motor out and if it only needs minor work to keep it. those were 40hp by 61 and are very durable motors. i think the max hp reccomended for the lido was 50hp. skipp

John,
That change in the water line you refer to is a boot stripe they just chose black to be the color. It is not a change in water line height. This boat is 15/16 feet yes? The 40 Johnson is probably the original to the boat package if this boat lands in the 68/69 vintage.
I wonder if it is a Glasspar Gold Cup or Marathon? No after a second look I think it is a 1961 Avalon (it looks to have either a 61 Merc 400 or 500 on it too!!!!)

It says Lido on the dash.

John, with fuel included keep track of every penny and reciept you put into this boat.
My sea swirl cost me $1,573.29 to redo and I had 830 hours invested. Includes registration, tires, everything EVER total...

So far I have $228.62 invested into my g3. That includes the price of the g3, fuel to pick it up and paint that I used for a engine stand that the motor that came off it is sitting on while I do a wood replacement. In the end I will have a total out of pocket price... I keep track for fun. I like knowing the real price. Im about to spend $1,000 on fiberglass supplies and wood for the g3.......,

Boat looks good. My sea swirl is a 14'er. Mike

John,

You probably already know this, but the transom is worse off than just a rotted core. The outer skin of the fiberglass is fractured. It appears to be the result of the previous owner running the outboard with a rotted core, which was most likely too much for the glass alone to handle.

In addition to a new core, it looks like you'll have to re-glass the transom as well.

As for the rotted seats, a friend of mine has an Avalon with the same seats. I might be able to talk him out of them (and other fixtures) if you need a parts boat.

Let me know.

Jamil

oops. how did I miss that? A senior moment I guess. Ok so its a Lido!
Regardless a great project.

Good to hear the trip was a success and you caught the motor before it became someones hood orniment LOL. Looks like just the cure for the withdrawls you were suffering after completing the Ray. Will be watchin!

hi guys,thanks for all the info.
thank you al,thats a beauty,im hoping to get this one looking good.
split thanks,its cool that all the hardware is there exceopt the glasspar logos,as for paper work he didnt have any,it was a salvage ,but in pa you just need a written bill of sale,saying how much you paid,i copied the ebay page that says i paid $3.50 for as proof,lol,i tried to give the owner more for it but he wouldnt take it,he said at least its out of his wifes side of the garage,lol.
skipp thanks,the reason im thinking earlier is the bow lightis back by the windshield,like the late 50s,with the cleat up front.
i cant imagine this little boat with a 50hp,lol,it would either sink or scream,lol.
jim,except for the deck,it does look like a avalon.
as for the water line that is really it look at the side view,in person you can see the water line scum at the bottom of the black stripe,the bow is way up in the air.but the transom is down to almost the splashwell drain.
jim,yeah im doing that so far with the boat motor and trailer,i have 4 bucks for it,160,in gasplus 15 for mcdonalds ,lol,my father in law bought supper.comes to 174 bucks,it would have been less but my truck only gets around 10 mpg.
jamil thank you,yeah i figured it would need to be replaced,i was wondering though if i could do a pourable transom,it has a radious,if not ill have to layer it,do you have any suggeation on which pourable to use and an aproxamate cost?
as for the seats i couldnt afford them,probably,im on a fixed income due to 3 heart attacks that damaged the left side of my heart,my wife works ,thank goodness,or i wouldnt have this boat,lol.
but please ask him how much for them ,thanks jamil,sincerly ,john

lol,jim,i have at least 10 a day,lol
catfin,thanks,yeah i also need to put new springs on the trailer,plus other things,does anyone know the year of the trailer?,john

by the way im pretty sure the wood on the inside of the sides of the gunwahales are mahogany,and will sand nicely and look good when varnished or ureathaned.

John,

email me regarding the transom rebuild and I'll try to help you avoid some pitfalls and save you a few bucks.

As for the hardware and seats, I think I can probably get the boat for a couple of hundred dollars. If I can re-use elements of the boat for other projects, then you can have the seats for nothing. But it will cost something to get them to you from the Northwest.

I'll see him tomorrow so I'll have better information for you then.

Congratulations on the boat by the way. I didn't say that before and I meant to. It's hard to begin a new project, but I think you've already shown that you're a guy who sees things through to completion. I think we'll all be better off watching this from its inception.

john, ask gary about pourable transoms. he's an expert at this. ron

CABLE STEERING YEAR .?? Maybe our history buffs can quote when the industry went to the single cable & away from pully .?? I am guessing about 1965 is the change over year ,. J.G. are you able to keep the pully system ?

J.G. That is great about PA , lIKE TN , being bill of sale state . If no other O/B mounting holes, the serial # on engine should almost be the hull mfg Year .?

split yeah im pretty sure cable is ok in pa,as long as it was already there,yep,pa,is a bill of sale state and for the trailer you have to get a new totle,maybe even call it homemade.
if you look close at the transom you can see 2 carriage bolt heads,ill bet it was from another motor.

john,you can think about the light placement as much as you wish,but remember these boats were shipped without hardware. the hardware could be chosen by the buyer or the dealer and the installation of the hardware and light was usually done by the dealer. the jervis brand of hardware was a common choice. there was no standard placement for the hardware other than the bow light forward and the sternlight somewhere behind it. the design molded into the side of the hull is the thing to look at. the 55-60 lidos did not have that,but starting in 61 they did. look at the brouchures in the library. the wood on the cockpit combings is probably philipine mahogany if it is the original as that is what glasspar used. have fun,i sometimes think that the research is the most fun.

thanks for the compliment jamil,it means alot coming from you,as for the seats ,thank you i appreciate it,what color are they,im thinking of grey interior ,but it could be black and white,im still thinking on the color scheme,lolill email you,thanks.

wow thanks skipp,you have done alot of research,so its probably a 61?
as for the wood im sure its mahogany,and im pretty sure i can get it back to looking good,thanks for all your help skipp.
and thanks to all of you fg members,john

i found the tag for the gator trailer,it was right in front of my face,its a 1970 model,now i need the hull #s of the lido,any idea where they are,lol.john

John-

If there is a hull number, it'll be on a stamped plate somewhere in the cockpit area, most likely on the port side... It's a Glasspar builders plate, and if you haven't found it, its likely missing.


My Citation is a 1960, and has a LOT of the same deck hardware. I've got some spares if you're missing anything.

The transom is a big job- but not too bad... Most Glasspars had curved transoms, which makes them a bit tougher to replace. You can see my replacement on my web page-

www.agott.com/glasspar

She'll be a great little boat when done!

-Andrew

wow andrew thank you,your site is great ,it tells me alot about what im going to find when i start,its pretty bad,but what can i expect for the price,lol.john

Split wrote:

CABLE STEERING YEAR .?? Maybe our history buffs can quote when the industry went to the single cable & away from pully .?? I am guessing about 1965 is the change over year ,. J.G. are you able to keep the pully system ?

J.G. That is great about PA , lIKE TN , being bill of sale state . If no other O/B mounting holes, the serial # on engine should almost be the hull mfg Year .?

My 1960 Larson SeaLion has a single flex cable. The system is original to the boat. It may have had some influence at to motor size. 2 bangers got pulley and chord, where 4 cylinders got telescoping cable.

I think it depends on the manufacturer. My 60 Wagemaker Clipper has pulley and cord for an 18' with Evinrude "Fat" Fifty on it.

Bob

ok i finally got it in the garage yesterday ,and took out the splashwell,i have my work cut out for me,lol.

Looks like most of the water got in around the motor mounting bolts? Watching with great interest John, keep up the good pics and please keep us posted on your progress buddy.

mark yeah ,and the splaswell drain,it was sitting too low into the water,ill bet theres a lot of wet foam under that floor,lol.and thanks mark

Oooh- That looks familiar! I took most of my transom out with a Shop-Vac!!

I'd say you've got a 50/50 shot of finding foam under the floor- SOME glasspars had it, some did not. It appears to have varied by factory, and by boat- Perhaps some days they just ran out of it!!

I had no foam in mine- But a LOT of rot under the floor... Stringers were shot. Be prepared for that!

The good new is, it's all repairable! And, it's almost FUN to repair it, too

thanks andrew and you have a great website,i learn from everything and i learned alot there.
i spent most of today splitting the two back halves of the boat so i could get to the upper parts of the transom,im still working on getting the rotton wood out it.

John- You've probably seen these, since i've uploaded them elsewhere, but here's your boat from the 1961 brochure-



And, the 1961 Price List-



Looks like you've got the 'deluxe' model, since you've got the splashwell.

I've got the original brochure/prices, if you want higher res copies that you can print, I can send 'em to you.

You're lucky that you don't have to take the whole deck off- That's a lot of work

-Andrew

wow andrew thanks alot,you always come through for me.
you dont have to send them,i made copies by email to myself.
as for the deck in going to have to split it just to gey the rub raile off its bad,but boy it sure is stuck to the top.what kind of rubrail did you use,this is a shoebox fit,and i dont want to use what is on it,thanks ,john

I've got the EXACT same aluminum rubrail on mine- It was a bear to get it all off- there were lots of rivets to drill out, then it was glued in a few places, too. It took me a while!

I found a rubber insert that was made for rv's that fit it well- And was a LOT cheaper than the stuff made for boats. the fit was a LITTLE loose, but I got enough to do the whole boat for something like $20, and the 'right' stuff from wefco was going to cost me about $4-5 a FOOT- and I needed like 36 feet of it. Ouch. I can send you a little piece of it if you want to check it for fit. It is white, not the black color that you have.

-Andrew

andrew that would be great,i dont have alot of money to compleat this project,it would be fantastic to get that for rubrail,do you have my adress?,thanks john

$3.50?? Wow that is a GREAT DEAL you got on that boat!

Just one of the dashboard aluminum ornamentations would sell for $$$$$ on eBay [if listed in the spring, naturally.].

Regarding the transom. It is not hard to replace as it may seem. My boat's transom was similar to yours. Not only did I replace it but I made the new one 1 1/2 inch thick covering the entire transom wall.

Mine was in poor shape, too. Instead of the 125 lb, 35 hp motor pushing the boat through the water it apparently pushed through the boat. lol

Check out my blog for details, if interested. I go step by step through the process of replacing all the structurals of the craft.

Here how mine looked.
batboat.blogspot.com/2008/09/batboat-rebuild-day-3-july-15-2008.html lol

I'll be definitely be keeping an eye on this thread.

hi darren,thanks and thats a great website and boat,very cool.

I wonder what kind of Glasspar this is?

1959 Glasspar 15' - $400 (Wynantskill)
Date: 2010-09-20
Reply to: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

15' fiberglass Glasspar boat, enclosed bow, 35 horse Evinrude Lark engine, homemade trailer. Have papers for all, boat and engine in good shape, sitting in shed since 2005, was winterized when put away. I am sure it could use a battery, tune up, and a cleaning, but it is a good boat.$400.00 O.B.O (518) 283-8823

This is in our local craigslist, Wynantskill is just across the Hudson River from Albany, just below Troy.

Frank

im guessing at 15 foot that its a lido,but im not sure,john