TOPIC: Sanding varnished wood getting to the final coat

I still see ripples in the varnish after i did a sanding of the first 3 coats, and added another 2 coats

Would anyone care to comment

I am wondering if I am not sanding enough to get that mirror finish?
I read.... light sanding with 320, but what does light sanding look like??? I don't want to sand off what i just painted on. Should I make sure it is sanded down so there are no ripples, so to speak?????
2 examples below
1. the finish as it looks after the process i mentioned at the top

2. now i did an additional sanding , after the process mentioned at the top, doing a much heavier sanding cutting into the varnish, and wiped with acetone

thanks

Yupper.Varnish looks like it was put on to thick/heavy and dried too fast before it could flatten out. Happens to me all the time. 320 is good and sand until you don't see the ripples anymore. Use a sanding board or block so it's even. You won't sand all your work off....really.
A little secret here. When I varnished my Sabre...the one in my avitar I put on 7 coats of varnish, sanding like you are doing. Final coat.....shhhhhh....rattle can gloss poly, results is mirror with no ripples.
Try googling ripples in varnish and see what comes up.

The point of sanding is to knock down the high spots. If you could look at the varnish very closely, you'd see a landscape of hills and valleys. Additional coats of varnish begin to fill the valleys and after each coat, you sand to knock off the tops of the hills. Don't rush it. Eventually, you will have a flat surface.

Right now, you have dark patches after you sand. Those are the valleys. When you get to the point where there are no dark patches after sanding, probably after the 6th or 7th coat, you've reached Flat City. By the way, 320 grit sanding is only needed before applying the final coat, generally 8 or 9 coats, possibly more. For now, 120 grit on a hard rubber sanding block will do nicely...much faster and a lot less clogging. Just "smooth it out," leaving whatever low spots there are. Use the "silver stuff" sandpaper, whatever that is. (can't remember) Garnet clogs too easily and flint is junk. After the third coat, I sand with a 5" palm sander, 220 grit, pushing lightly, keeping it moving constantly and being very careful not to sand through to bare wood. The very last sanding is done by hand using 320 on a rubber sanding block.

I refinished the Garwood below using the method I described. You can do it too. Break's over. Get back to work.

Excellent advice and work as always Jan!

Bob

sabere thanks for in info but I did not understand this

" Final coat.....shhhhhh....rattle can gloss poly, results is mirror with no ripples."

thanks

Nautilus oh yea that's a mirror finish for sure.
your post has very good details and tips i defiantly have not been doing it the way you detailed.
I will try to follow that as much as possibly as i'm not sure how long my patience will hold out on the number of coats.
Also, i am doing this all outside, not a very low dust environment to work in
I think your info will help a lot
thank you

waterwings quick hello thanks for checking in

Excellent advise from Jan. Best you follow his advice.
Helmsman brand makes a polyurethane in spray cans. For small trim pieces I have used this as a final finish because it flows out evenly. It will run if you are doing vertical work.
You're on the right path, get another can of elbow grease to use.