TOPIC: 1986 Johnson 60 hp no spark

Serial number: J60TLCDS

I got the right key for it, thanks to help here and hooked up only the 2 main positive and negative cables to it. It turned over nicely but no combustion.

So, the classic is it fuel or spark problem.

Took the plugs out, sprayed a bit of starter fluid in, still no combustion.

Took one plug out and clamped it to the housing to look for a spark while turning it over. Could not see a spark.

So, on the surface, it appears to have an ignition problem.

Any ideas on where to start trouble shooting this would be helpful!

Thanks,

Ken

Note: after a bit of googling here's a link to the parts diagram for the ignition:

www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1986/J60TLCDS/IGNITION%20SYSTEM/parts.html

And correct me if I'm wrong but this page seems to describe some ignition trouble shooting:

www.boatpartstore.com/page32.asp

Assuming the ignition switch and wires are OK, then you need to troubleshoot the stator & trigger for proper values. I do not have the data in front of me at this time.

From the seat of the pants, an OMC without spark will be 90% CDI and 5% each trigger or stator failure.

I'm not familiar with that particular model Ken, but I like to start with the basic stuff first. Does it have a "dead man" (safety) switch? Neutral safety switch adjusted properly and working? (Some have it up in the control box, others have it back on the motor on the shift linkage.) Also, OMC motors usually have an inline fuse (twist and pull apart connection) back near the junction block where the harness splits out to the different connections on the motor.

I've got a Clymer manual that may cover that motor, what year model did you say it was?

Thanks Jim and Mark! It is a 1986 model.

From that link above here is what is suggested:

Three Cylinder Engines (Except Quick Start Models)
No Fire at All:

Disconnect the black yellow kill wire and retest. If the engines now has fire, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the ignition now fires, replace the rectifier.
Check the stator resistance. You should read approximately 500 ohms from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire. (See DVA Charts).
Check the DVA output from the stator. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more from the brown wire to the brown/yellow wire (while connected to the pack).
Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
Check the timer bases resistance from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires. Reading should be 38-42 ohms.
Check the DVA output from the timer base. A reading of at least 0.5V or more from the white wire to the blue, green and purple wires (while connected to the pack) is needed to fire the pack.
Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.

I'll try them in that order... I have a funny feeling that it is the power pack.

I'm not sure how to check the stator resistance: I assume using an ohm meter?

Ken,

I got out the service manual Mon morning, typed a long response including part numbers & costs & then got busy with a customer.

By the time I returned, the dam forum had timed out & I got disgusted with it all.

You have ohm values targets listed in your post that look similar to what I had attempted to post. Truthfully, I don't worry about DVA outputs om OMC motors. I ohm the stator & trigger. If OK, I pull a CDI off the shelf, plug it in and it starts. That being said, the real purpose of a DVA reading is because a stator that ohms OK can be faulty when vibration or magnetic fields pass thru the unit causing the circuit to open or short.

You don't have the luxury of pulling a CDI off the shelf or returning it after you trouble shoot incorrectly. So, you need more complete troubleshooting.

It certainly won't hurt to verify the ignition switch & wires are OK.

The fuse Mark talked about kills power to the engine. It won't crank & trim will be inop too. It has nothing to do with the ignition system.

You can easily eliminate the kill circuit or switch in the control box by unplugging the red plug at the motor and jumping directly to the starter motor to check for spark. If you get spark with the control harness unplugged, then your issue is in there.

Next, check all grounds - particularly the ground wire at the power pack. Should be a star washer between the ground wire terminal and the motor block to help with contact.

Ok, I have to admit I am naive when it comes to engines in general. I didn't realize there was a kill switch. The boat came with no key and I focused on getting that.

So, the neighbor who sold it has packed things away and can't find it so far. Are these fairly easy to get? And are they specific or fairly generic?

Ken

Don't feel bad, anybody that tells you they've never had a "Oh crap" moment is either lying to you, or they're perfect!? (And I'd like to meet them, I've never met anybody perfect before.)

I'm sure Jim or Scott can tell you for sure, but evidently there's a bunch of different styles, Ken.
www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8020&familyName=Kwik+Tek+Boat+Kill+Switch+Keys

Yes, that looks like the ticket!

Since West Marine will price match, I found this:

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KK93IA/ref=sc_pgp__m_AHH30MBO11OIQ_1?ie=UTF8&m=AHH30MBO11OIQ&n=&s=&v=glance

and am going to pick it up.

Looks like it will be handy.

Success!

There's nothing like hearing the throaty sound of an engine roaring to life!

It apparently was the I.D.10T error.

It's not idling well yet but it's alive!

Thanks to all!

Ken

Ken,
Couple things to check on before maiden voyage. Check the seams of the carb bodies for the color of the gasket. If it is black, rebuild the carbs. If the seam gasket is tan or a greenish hue, then they have probably been rebuilt with ethanol resistant kits. You mention it is running rough - I would pull and clean the carbs at the very minimum. If any one of the carbs has any gunk floating around in them, you could blow the motor as each cylinder relies on its related carb for lubrication... If a carb is gunked up, that cylinder will run lean and score the cylinder...

Will do,

The engine had not been run since 2006 at least but was fogged when stored. It actually runs ok at a high idle but cuts of as it slows to idle.

Has an oil injector for the gas, ie, I used my test tank with 50:1 premix oil but it has a separate oil tank to mix with gas. Should I disconnect that? I didn't even change the oil in it yet, just wanted to see if it ran.

As it's running it's pretty oily smoke from exhaust.

I know I need to change the impeller too.