TOPIC: Johnson QD-18

Hi All, just picked up this QD-18 serial #1544XXX. Andreas tells me its a 1957. The PO didn't have a pressurized gas can so I didn't get a chance to see it run but he assured me that it did. He also changed the plugs, lubed the LU, etc. Can anyone tell me anything about it? Thanks in advance.
shipster

A QD-18 is a 1957 10 hp..What more do you need to know. I can tell you a lot, however you may already know it

TT, How do I start with what I may or may not know. I am quite certain that you have far more knowledge about this stuff than I will ever know. I know VERY little about Johnsons or outboards in general. I am mechanically inclined but I am not a mechanic. I would very much like to learn and/or find out the proper procedure for resurrecting one of these things. I've read in some of the forums here that I shouldn't even turn the prop for fear of scarring the cylinder wall. Don't know if that's a legitimate concern or not. Anyway the best that I can hope to get here is the particulars on the motor. Anything beyond that is extra. Thanks in advance.
shipster

Save or print this. web.ebscohost.com/serrc/pdf?sid=8cf16411-8543-4d43-832a-876c6ae05e7d%40sessionmgr111&vid=5&hid=112 As a rule, if you haven't heard it run, assume it doesn't and start checking it over. As a starting point, pull the plugs and spray a GENEROUS amount of WD-40 or other oil into each cylinder and reinstall the plugs. Rope it over SLOWLY (some oils are flammable and work like starting fluid) to coat the cylinders. If you have one, hook up a spark tester and check both cylinders for spark. Read the section in the manual about changing the water pump impeller, unless you know for a fact its been replaced recently, replace it. Rubber doesn't like sitting around doing nothing and comes apart when bad, plugging up water passages and cooking motors. When its time for the Big Pull, remember to use OUTBOARD two stroke oil at the correct mix (24:1).

First thing you need to do it pull the carb. Remove the float bowl and be sure that it is clean.

While you have it apart coat the cork float with either a good coat of Super glue or fuel proof model air plane dope (you can buy it at a hobby shop. .If you for any reason turn the motor over and have the sparks removed or disconnected be sure that the wires are grounded as to keep from maybe shorting out the coils

Many parts for that motor can be bought from your NAPA dealer
Water pump impeller, coils condenser and points, Carb kit etc.

Do you have a tank for that motor...if not then you may want to add a fuel pump as to be able to use a single line system, and able to get a tank that will not break the bank...and the new plastic are easier in the inside of a boat.

I would first check for spark on both cyl..if you have it then check the compression Then I would pull the LU and replace the pump impeller; and change the LU oil. Check to see if any water comes out of the oil. Hopefully not!

Being that the motor has sat up for a while I would run the first 3 gal of fuel at a 16 to 1 mix

www.precisionservoutboard.com/ArtsExtras/ArtsFivePointPlan/tabid/65/Default.aspx

www.marineengine.com/parts/vintage-evinrude-johnson/377020/catalog.html?http://www.marineengine.com/parts/vintage-evinrude-johnson/377020/37702000001.htm

Kerry and TallTexan, Many, many thanks for the websites. I suspect that I will be revisiting them quite a bit. Unfortunately just not as soon as I would like. Once I do get started I will start a new thread in member projects. Again, thanks.
shipster

Okay so I go and take out the spark plug to do the WD-40 treatment and I find that the lower spark plug practically spins free. The threading on the cylinder head assembly (part #376130) has been pretty well stripped out. Do I need to replace the part or can I retap the cylinder head? My preference would be to replace it and the gasket (part #301862). Question is what should I do and does anyone have a line on these two parts (or additional parts that I'm not seeing)?
shipster

You have three options. Some use Helicoils (love/hate), keep surfing Craigslist for a parts motor, or go to the Antique Outboard Motor Club website and place a "wanted" ad in their Webvertise section for a replacement. www.aomci.org/

Thanks Kerry. I'm gonna start with the replacement part approach. There's a set of Helicoil stuff on ebay right now but I'm not real interested in buying something that I'll propbably use once or twice in my lifetime.

shipster,

that is a REALLY nice/tough motor. - i must have owned a half-dozen over the last 50 years, just like it & "fished in" a boat powered by a twin cylinder johnnyrude hundreds of times over the years. - i've NEVER seen one that was worn-out from use.

SIERRA has virtually all the "usually needed parts", at your local NAPA auto parts store.

may also suggest that you buy a copy of CHEAP OUTBOARDS (i bought my copy used off Amazon.com for 5.oo.)& follow the directions?
(if i can fix an old johnnhyrude made between '55 & '65, anybody can, as i'm "mechanically challenged".)

yours, satx

satx, Thanks for the vote of confidence on this motor. It's funny, you pick these things up and you fall in love with 'em right away just like a new puppy. I'll check out NAPA and keep you posted. Also, is there a video of some sort that us newbies can check out? I have a print out of the parts and part numbers but I really don't know a bunt from a banana when it comes to working on these things. Thanks.
shipster

shipster,

i forgot to say: the AOMCI.org website has free classifieds for everyone & the members of the group are helpful to "newbies", as a general rule.
(i once needed an "odd piece" for an old/tired 40horse Gale & one of the AOMCI members offered me the piece for free.)

BEST WISHES, satx

Hi All, Can antone tell me if a 1958 powerhead from a QD-19 match up with a '57 QD-18. Both 10hp. Thanks in advance. Also SATX, Picked up Cheap Outbords. Easy read and seem to be helpful although I don't as yet have a repair manual to go along with it. Thanks.
Shipley

I am pretty sure the powerheads are compatible, although everything from the belly pan on down is different. 1957 to 1958 was the changeover year for the 10s as they made them lighter by grafting the 5.5/7.5 lower end to the 10hp powerhead (formerly mounted on the 15/18 lower end).

Hi All. So I went to NAPA with the part number that I got off of the MarineEngine website and they can't find it in their system. The guy did say that if I could get a Sierra part number then they could find it straight away. 2 things. One, do I need to try Salvo or Advance Auto Parts or two, is there a booklet of sorts that cross-references the original Johnson numbers with the newer Sierra numbers? Thanks in advance.
shipster

If you have the orignal number no matte how old Seirra can match it up to the new number. And if you can't find the number just go here and ask these guys www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=Webvertize
Ask them what you want and you will get more info then you ask for. Most likely get the number and were to get it
Mike aka the pirate

Thanks Mike and satx. I finally got around to registering with AOMCI.

Hi All,
2 more things. What kind of compression should I be looking for with this motor? The compression meter that I have is the kind with the hard rubber on the end and as tight as I can hold it with 1 hand and pull on the pull start with the other I am only getting about 60 psi(?). Is that way too low for a 10hp engine or am I okay with that? Second thing as you can see in the pix the plastic end of the shift cable broke off thank God while the boat was sittin' in the field and not coming up to the dock. Question is if I were to get new cables that are longer than the ones I have now can they be shortened or do I just need to coil them up somehow? The shift cable on there now is about 11' long and the throttle cable is about 12' long. Again, thanks in advance.
shipster

60 is a bit low. It should start at that,however it may not idle too well

Many times after you run a motor for a while things will loosen up. I would run a mix of 16 to 1 for the first hr or 2 as to help loosen things up

Thanks TT

That cable guide is part number 381444 with the push pin, or 385956 for the guide alone. It does not come with a new cable. It is available from any Evinrude dealer, or anyplace selling OEM parts.

As for cables, they come in one foot increments, so order the correct size. Trying to use ones too long or too short makes them very stiff and hard to work. Again, any Evinrude dealer or for that matter, any marine dealer can get you Teleflex cables. They are Teleflex' "Type 400" cables.

Thanks F_R and welcome aboard.