Hello, just bought an outboard for a 1961 MFG I'm trying to restore and need some help. It's a Johnson with model no# EL33-70M
I FINALLY found one in my budget, but now I'm afraid I'm in over my head. I was already an hour from home and didn't want to go back empty handed..
He said he pulled a plug on the lower unit, but turns out it wasn't for the gear oil, it was a connecting pin? And the shaft inside dropped down. older gentleman, said he did the same thing to a nearly identical motor a few years ago, and was a relatively easy job with a helper to keep things in place? I only see one empty hole, which I think is gear oil too. It's right below the fill level screw. Pic attached of the area and the screw provided. He also said it was in good shape, but when I got there said they had swapped the carb with another one from a boat they needed to sell, and this carb is missing some pieces...not happy! Not even sure what I'm missing though. Something about the idle screws.
I'm good with cars, but small engines seen to be pickier...and very little experience with marine.
I did a compression test and both cylinders were 90psi - any idea the spec?
Any help would be appreciated! they said they found a used carb at local marina and would call ahead for me, but it was $75 and I'd rather try and find what I'm missing if possible.
Also, I sometimes deal with a "boat junkyard" near The Alamo City & MAY be able to find you a complete carb for DIRT CHEAP (like 10-15 bucks), if I knew for sure which one yours is & you want me to look out there.
What is the exact Model number, serial number & any data off the body of the carb??
You may also want to look at the SIERRA PRODUCTS catalog at your local NAPA auto parts store, as they have nearly everything fore the OMC Big Twin outboards.
Lay the motor in its side. Using an awl and some gentle movement of the shift handle, align the hole in the shift fork into the hole in the gear case. That screw is the pivot for the shift fork that operates the clutch dog. Make sure the o-ring on the screw is in good shape.
I don't see anything missing in the carb photos - looks more or less correct, too.
Okay, so its been quite a few months...I live in Michigan and the garage was WELL below 0 for most of January and I didn't feel so rushed, but now its finally spring and Ive left my project alone too long!!
It was the shift pivot pin, which I ordered a new seal for just in case. I've had this thing on its side for a week now fiddling with it, but it seems there's something binding up.
I have the parts manual with exploded diagrams, which may have made me dangerous.. I took the side cover plate off to separate the lower shift rod from the upper in the hopes I could manipulate the prop with one hand while the shift rod the other long and then have my son put the screw in when holes inside lined up. It got 3/4 of the way threaded, but then was VERY tight.
I'm considering dropping the lower unit so I can open the gearcase and inspect, but then I'm in this engine for quite a bit more... I'm not looking to rebuild a lower unit just to even see if the damn thing works at all...
Any advice? I hate to let this one little screw get the best of me
Sorry, no. Use the 3M in addition to the spaghetti seal and the o-ring at the prop shaft end.
Yes, you can remove the siege eithout pulling the gear foot. Tip the motor upside down, though. Put the powerhead on a thick rag on the ground. I lean it against my workbench to give a little stability.
Got the motor upside down (man did that feel odd) but you were absolutely right and it was simple!
A few observations:
1. Little bit of water in there, and blue permatex has been used. There is some cruddy orange buildup on the shift fork
2. I'm guessing the shift pin was a little stripped because there's a definite off center lean to it now that I can install it in the removed and empty (skeg?). There's a spot ground in the opposing side where it was screwed in too far. I think I can run a tap through the hole, but maybe not. JB weld, drill, and tap again?
3. The shift fork had definitely been lodged on the wrong side of the (clutch dog?) Mechanism that moved the gears between forward and reverse. I flipped it up and gave a beautiful "neutral" now that wasnt there. Now I know to check the operation of that when buying!
4. The inner most bearing, which has a tapered cone and race is moving smoothly, but the outer most where the prop is it's a cage and ball bearing, and definitely has a grind to it. I'll order a replacement tonight. The "u-shaped" retainer, similar to inside a differential at the carrier, seems to be a little scored on the faces. Will that be reusable with the shifter fork CORRECTLY placed into it? There seem to be pockets for its little "feet" on the u clip, but it was upside down in there.
The gears themselves look fine. I will try to attach pictures, sorry it's so long!
Thanks for all your help! I'm really hoping to save this one. Its needed for my Edinboro restoration (or resuscitation lol)