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TOPIC: I have a Chrysler 45 traced the date to 1969,

I have a Chrysler 45 traced the date to 1969, 2 years 2 weeks ago #132580

I'm going to need some input if anyone has a few minutes .

Model 4555
How many CCA do i need to start that motor?

i'm have a small 1959 lake and sea i'm going to use it for, thats if it even runs or is repairable
ALSO, should I get a battery that is duel purpose or maybe one of those gel ones?
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I have a Chrysler 45 traced the date to 1969, 2 years 1 week ago #132670

Your engine looks like a magneto ignition without a charging system so youll want some reserve in case you need several starts. on a test stand a small lawn and garden battery would work, 250cca. But don't use that on the water.... maybe 400- 500cca's or more. A gel battery is a great choice if you can afford one.
The following user(s) said Thank You: joecffv@aol.com

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I have a Chrysler 45 traced the date to 1969, 3 months 6 days ago #139234

thanks for your comments,

i found a local guy to look at it. he said it needed points condenser solenoid to get some spark to the plugs. i found some , not cheap, If it's not working after he looks at in again i might just cut my losses and sell it along with the boat and trailer. it's not the boat I wanted to keep which is the 1959 lake n sea, i'm working on

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I have a Chrysler 45 traced the date to 1969, 3 months 5 days ago #139237

  • Robby321
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I would stick to a flooded battery, as that old charging system might not like at all AGM, or Gel. Old Mercs sure don't. Zero advantage anyway....

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I have a Chrysler 45 traced the date to 1969, 3 months 5 days ago #139238

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joecffv@aol.com wrote: thanks for your comments,

i found a local guy to look at it. he said it needed points condenser solenoid to get some spark to the plugs. i found some , not cheap, If it's not working after he looks at in again i might just cut my losses and sell it along with the boat and trailer. it's not the boat I wanted to keep which is the 1959 lake n sea, i'm working on


Hi, did the local guy pull the flywheel and inspect the points and condensers? Otherwise there's no way to make the diagnosis that he did.

I would bet that the points are "hazed over" from sitting. If you pull the flywheel, you can remove the points, sand them until you get to clean, bare, metal, then polish with Crocus Cloth and set the points gap to .020".

You'll need a harmonic balancer puller to remove the flywheel, along with some Grade 8 bolts of the appropriate lenght and thread-size to screw into the flywheel pulling holes.

Here's a cheap, basic puller that should do the trick:

www.amazon.com/Lisle-45500-Harmonic-Balancer-Puller/dp/B0002SREAY?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002SREAY#customerReviews

Lots of 'em on eBay if you don't have Amazon Prime:

https:/ /www. ebay. com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Lisle+45500&_sacat=0&_sop=15

You'll have to copy the link then remove the extra spaces. This site parses any eBay link unless you split it up.

New points, if you can find them, are rather expensive. So I'd try cleaning and polishing the old ones first. Unless the contacts are badly burnt, they should be serviceable. Be sure to do a compression check on the engine before extensive repairs; if the compression is bad, it's probably not worth working on.

BTW if the starter solenoid is bad, you can use a rope to pull the powerhead over to check spark, with the plugs out. It'll be really easy to pull.

Here's an inexpensive flywheel tool, useful for holding the flywheel stationary while you're removing and re-torquing the flywheel nut:

www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-Flywheel-Turning-Tool-648455/204505230

Internet-order only, with free delivery to your local Home Depot store.

HTH............ed

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