The '55 Correct Craft Atom Skier is a 6V system. I want to install a bilge pump for safety reasons. Can't find a 6V bilge pump. What all is involved with converting the whole electrical system to 12V?
Or...would it be more cost effective to just add a 12v deep cycle to power just the 12v. bilge pump and leave the rest at 6v?
By the way, I've already invested in a new 6v battery and new cables. (6v cables are bigger and more costly than your Wal-Mart 12v. variety.)
Try running the 12v pump on 6v, it might just do the job, but slower. Cost you nothing to find out.
Also...you don't need much power to run one of those pumps. I use one with an 11v 2200mah battery to pump out boats that have been filled out when left out in the rain with the bail in...that one tiny battery pumps fifty gallons of water...in other words, a pretty small 12v battery, like a small gel cell for an alarm, will do you fine, you don't need to buy a big marine battery...
There are small 12v to 6v inline converters that you can buy. A lot of car guys use them for older cars when they switch over some of the electrics on them. I have bought acouple from JC Whitney in the past and some on line. Don't cost much eather. Saves changing everything over. Skip.
If you could change your charger to 12 V then you install 2 6v batteries. (You can use your 6v starter on 12v) You then pull the other 6v items off the battery that goes to ground by hooking up to the pos and neg of just that one Battery
Keep the WHOLE 6 Volt System. Everything, and I mean everything was designed for 6 Volts, charging generator, brushes, gauges, bulbs, wire, etc. There are 6 Volt Pumps available, sometimes just a little harder to put your hands on them.
Converting the system will enable jump starting from other 12 volt sources, the batteries are less money, and accessories are easier to get. You can make it look stock by using a 12 volt generator from the same era.
Here is a list of what is necessary:
12 volt generator or alternator
12 volt regulator
12 volt light bulbs
voltage limiter for any old electric 6 volt gauges
If the Ammeter is inductive (wires passes through a loop behind the meter & not connected) it will work the same on 6 or 12 volts.
You do not need to change the starter
You may need to change the ignition coil - but that is not a given
A 6 volt horn will be fine on 12 volts - and it will be loud as hell
Keep it six volt! I have seen far too many issues that are created when you change them to 12. The starters are not built to handle the "Throw" of the 12 volt battery and easily break the heads on the starter castings. I had two boats have that same issue this summer alone.
My reason for wanting to install a bilge pump in the 1955 Atom Skier was born out of a startling amount of water inside the boat when first launched after I purchased it. After talking with several folks familiar with old wooden boats it is not unusual to see a good deal of water come in when the boat has not been in the water for several years. A week after that initial outing, the boat did not take on nearly as much water as it did the first time. Being a plywood boat and not a plank-built hull I didn't think it needed to soak up or swell as plank boats do. I know it's always a good idea for wood boats to have bilge pumps and I now know 6v pumps are available. I think I'll see what next spring brings when I can once again get the boat in the water. Thanks for all the input. My leanings are to leave the system at 6v. If a pump is needed I know where to get one.
When you launch for the first time of the year with a plank boat, it is very common as the wood needs to swell. I have a 1968 Resorter that has to be soaked. The best way is to have them in the in a slip with gantry hoists above. I use both lifting rings and suspend the boat from that. It takes about 12 hours and it is good to go. It is amazing how good that works. If you don't have gantry hoists in the lake, fill the boat on the trailer. This is a good way to see where the water is exiting your hull and you can find where the boat may be leaking, but it is hard to get enought water in the hull to soak it completely. If your boat is plywood, roll it back into the water and pull the seats and engine cover out and watch for where the water is coming in. Chines, keel and the running gear areas are coomon leak areas. The rudder stuffing box is a common area that needs attention. They use a wax coated rope for a water barrier. This usually dries and shrinks, so it would be a good idea to pull that out and re-bed that portion. Another area is around the shaft log. You may need to tighten the jam nuts on the shaft log as well. A small drip is preferred, but that can be a major area to look for incoming water.
As for a bulge pump, get one installed as you will always want to have an operational safety net. Check to see if you have a sipon drain near the stern on your boat. These were common on Chris Crafts. They would siphon water while under way, but if you got too much water in the bilge area, they would cover the siphon and it would fill the boat and sink it.
I believe that you purchased your Atom Skier in IL, near Fox lake or something like that. Am I correct? I looked at it about 2 1/2 years ago for sale, I really considered it at the time, but I had way too many projects in Fiberglass and Aluminum. You will enjoy that boat if it was the same that I looked at. The only thing that I would do to it immediately is to re-wire it correctly! Spark and Wood on Water is not a good combination. Enjoy your find, and as I said back a few postings ago, keep it 6V.
Yes, StevieB, that's where I got the boat. What do you mean by "re-wire it correctly"? Did you notice something I haven't discovered yet? I have not changed anything other than the new battery and cables. I think it changed hands again since you looked at it but it stayed in the same area on the Fox River. Right now she's naked of all hardware getting ready for a few fresh coats of varnish.
When I last looked at it, I noticed both the engine wiring harness and the light/dash harness wiring was very old (probably original) and brittle with cracking and and exposure. That would have been the very first thing I would have replaced if she was mine. I would run new marine grade wiring throughout, just duplicating the existing gage and length. You could look up Marine Wiring on eBay and you will probably be able to find what you need. And yes, .... you really have a nice little Correct Craft Atom Skier. Someday I would like to go for a ride in her, or better yet, a tow behind her.
Yup, I plan to upgrade the wiring over winter. If the picture loads it shows a wire going to a mounting bolt on the rudder plate. Appears to be a ground wire but it doesn't go any further than half way to the engine. Was cut off...no terminal on it. Any ideas where it should go?
I just looked to see where you are located so I could possibly help, but I am across the "small" pond from you. You should be able to find some assistance in WI. There are also a number of Correct Craft Members in WI. Check their website out and reach out and connect. You might find an examble that you can rewire from just around the corner from you. Good Luck!
I have tried tirelessly to get a response from Keith at the CC website. The site says I'm logged in but I can't post anything. Never got a confirmation email upon sign up. Very frustrating since I've enjoyed reading other's posts there.