TOPIC: Mounting Hardware on Mahogany deck

I'm looking for some suggestions/expertise in this forum since you folks have dealt with wood and water far more than I have. I've only dealt with wood not the mixture of the two. I have several questions:
1. Should I mount my deck hardware (bow cleat, bow light/mast, stern light, search light, horn etc) with any kind of adhesive/sealant? I know most everyone uses 3M 5200 on the fiberglass but is this recommended on wood? Should I use 4200?
2. Do I just put it on the screws then re-attach where they were? 3. Do I put some around the wire coming up through the holes or just make a gasket with the sealant/adhesive around the perimeter of the hardware base I'm mounting?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bob

If you are using the original hardware and the screw holes are still good, use them by all means. See the instructions over on the glass forum. I would use 3M 5200, it CAN be undone, trust me. You want to lay down enough to provide a complete seal of the item you are installing. Then get the holes lined up an press it down. Tighten the screws to express some material, but don't over tighten. Clean up excess right away. I use Interlux 333 to do this. Let the 5200 cure over night, then come back and tighten down the fastners.

Crosbyboat,
Thanks for the info. I'm thinking if the holes are loose then, mix up some epoxy resin and filler I have, fill the holes, re-drill and mount with the 5200.

Thanks again,
Bob

I would not use 3M5200 to bed hardware. I'd recommend Dolphanite bedding compound. That's my opinion.

Andreas

Instead of using screws, you can leave the holes as is and use stainless bolts and nylolock nuts. Get a head that fits nicely in your hardware and JUST fits the current holes. Also, use a good size washer to back the nut. As Andreas points out, there are many opinions on bedding compounds. Do your reading on the site here and make a decision. I am of the opinion that nothing is permanent, including 5200. I have had to remove 5200 before, and it can be done without destroying the wood. Interlux 333 is a solvent I use in all my fininshing work that I found also softens 5200 nicely. 5200 is after all a chemical compound, and the right solvent will do it in. (My BS was in Chemistry.) But there are clearly alternatives to 5200. Most wood boat decks will at some point need to be stripped and refinished, although if properly stored, and refresher coats of varnish are added periodically, this should be many years between occurrences. Also, if your boat is stored covered and indoors, then the chance of water infiltration through deck and hardware fittings is minimal to begin with. The only time mine are outdoors is when they are trailered or at the St. Lawrence. Other than that they are stored inside, or in the case of the Power Cat which is so wide it won't fit through my shop door, under cover.

Crosbyboat, thanks the only thing I'm worried about is making holes all the way through the deck that aren't already there. The bow cleat and the horseshoe cleats on each side of the bow are mounted to 1" solid Mahogany, well the bow cleat is actually mounted to the king board, which is solid Mahogany. Technically it's lasted since 1960 I'm assuming if I fill the holes with resin and re-drill/mount it should be ok?. To this point everything has been mounted with stainless wood screws, uh or brass where my dad replaced if they fell out and don't match, only one or two.

Andreas, thanks for the input also. I looked at the prices for Dolphanite and OUCH! best price I can find is $32.99 for a pint. Sorry I'm trying to stay on a budget somewhat, well save here, splurge there, as you'll see below.

The local marina that does restoration work says they use Life Caulk and it comes in Mahogany color. Would that be sufficient?

The boat now has 12 coats of Epifanes on it and it is a trailer boat that will stay inside the "shed' I built (12'x28').

Bob