TOPIC: inline 6

hi, a friend picked the up and we are trying to find some information on it. serial# on the transom clamp is 1689101, the wrap reads 100hp and the faceplate is from a 950SS. if it is a 100hp then that would make it 1964? also how does the front of the hood attach, it looks like something is missing there.also to get spark do i need 12V at the white resistor wire?

another pic

I believe the upper cowling is held on with 4 nuts.

on the back there is a bracket but on the front the studs are missing and i don't see any thing it would attach to. hopefully we can build a stand this weekend and get a better look.
thanks

Is there a nut near / above the distributor ( visible in the first picture ) that hold the cowling ?

I have a '63 1000. I can send you pics of anything you need. I'll snap a few of the hood attach points this weekend and send them along.

I interpreted your original question to be how to attach the chrome face plate, vs. the top hat/hood. Did you have questions about the face plate?

Pete

Here's a link to a wiring diagram for your 100hp:

www.maxrules.com/oldmercs/Wiring/0_1965a/8.pdf

It shows the wiring for the ign system, you'd connect the +12V lead of your power supply to the jumper wire between the 2 ballast resistors, then connect the power supply's ground lead to a convenient grounding point on the block.

With all the spark plugs removed, you can easily pull on the recoil starter (if it's working) and get spark. Stick a few of the spark plugs back in the wires and ground the plug to the block.

If you don't have spark, likely the points need cleaning and that's another story! Don't tear into the distributor without consulting a manual or lots of instructions from the Merc Guru's, as there are parts easily broken if not removed in the proper order.

If you post your motor's serial number we can pinpoint the year.

HTH & keep us posted on your progress......ed

ok the serial# is 1689101. a few weeks ago i posted questions here and then took apart a distributor from a 50hp from the same time period, would this one be similar?
thanks again

ok i took another look and found the mounts for the hood, one is by the distributor the other near the starter, maybe i will be able to find time tomorrow to see if there is spark.

store.oldmercs.com/category_s/831.htm

•This model was painted all "Phantom Black."
•The serial number was on a plate riveted to the swivel bracket above and between the clamp screws.
•Serial numbers 1665002 thru 1768403 were 1964 models.
•Serial numbers 1768404 thru 1935100 were 1965 models.
•Merc 1000E Short Shaft, Electric Starting with Alternator and Merc 1000EL Long Shaft, Electric Starting with Alternator models were produced.

well i tested for spark and got good spark on all plugs so i poured some oil rich fuel in each of the carbs and it fired right up.
thanks

Maintenance will keep it running smooth for years to come.

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Recommend you do a few things.

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Clean the carburetors.

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Replace old fuel lines.

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Replace bottom crank bearing and seals.

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Waterpump impeller.

How difficult is the Lower bearing and seal replacement. Are there signs of wear I should be watching for?

peterstransky wrote:

How difficult is the Lower bearing and seal replacement. Are there signs of wear I should be watching for?

If its anything like the 1150 Inline, they are not bad at all. I have some videos on youtube of me doing mine per Dr FrankenMercs instructions.
Just search my username on youtube or I can post up links for ya.

thanks Cturbo!
prop - I got your e-mail regarding the choke return spring but for some reason was not able to reply back directly. Here is a picture for you;



View is looking down from the top hat

hi, i removed the lower unit which was stuck in foward and the lower shift shaft is just spinning free so i guess i will be taking it apart. Looking at the parts diagram it looks like they didn't use an exhaust tube back then? also if i find this lower unit is no good what other years would be common to this one?
thanks

Call me about the shift problem 1 914 310 7086. Dave.

Listen to me. Before you touch another screw on that engine get a service manual, and not a knock off Seloc or Clymer either. Order a factory manual from Merc or oldmercs.com and study it from cover to cover. You will do a lot of damage by going at this thing without the information you need in front of you. I use mine all the time even when I know the procedure like the back of my hand, it is the backbone of any service shop.

I second that statement - get a manual and get advice.

thanks, i do have mercury manual C-90-68647 as well the seloc manuals which i reference all the time.

Good man!!! You would be shocked to see the butchery that I have to repair just because someone thought they could do it without the book. Guess what, you can't do it. Mercs do not suffer fools gladly, but will reward good work handsomely.