TOPIC: 1964-65 Merc 1000

Hi Everyone,

I'm a newbie to this forum, in fact, a newbie to boating. Im hoping this is the place to get some much needed information, education, and advise.

In an effort to find a boat trailer, my husband and I found one with a boat and motor package.... Buy the trailer, get the "boat and motor free" type of deal.

Anyway, we came home with a 1961 Performer Islander with a 1964-65 Merc 1000 on board, but elevated with the transom saver. This has been in storage, without use, for 15 years. We have not started the engine, but my husband was amazed at the clean engine after opening it up. The boat was put into storage with no fuel and had received a standard maintenance prior as well.

It's such a classic boat! We've been watching some videos on boat motors and we'd like to take the steps to get this back in the water; however, we don't know where to begin.

Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Gina

Sorry for the duplicate photos.... I'll try again.

motor is 1965.

Thank you, Dave!!

I see I made an error on the boat year.... Its actually a 1961.... My typo above.

Are these motors worth the cost to be looked at by a professional Marine Mechanic? I know that's a difficult question to answer..... But thought I'd ask.

We are really looking for an aluminum fishing boat to fit our needs. Is there much interest in this type of set up on Fiberglassics?

nice package, there will be some general things you will have to look at after sitting for 15 years. I just brought a 650 merc from 63 back to life after sitting for 8 years.
The low voltage wiring insulation will likely have crumbled or is about to, inspect it carefully. The grease in the distributor collar may have hardened (thanks Dave B)preventing the distributor from rotating far enough to open the carbs properly. The engine will be dry from sitting. Pull the plugs and spray engine fogging oil in there and rotate the flywheel by hand to distribute the oil. The starter pinion may be stuck from dried grease or oil. The oil in the gearcase needs to be changed as does the impeller for the water pump. Carbs will be dry and the floats may be stuck on the bottom of the float chamber. The original fuel lines will likely need replacing as they dry up and do not fit tightly at the fittings anymore. The old lines do not stand up well to todays fuel either so ultimately you will have to change them.

As you discover concerns post pics and questions, lots of help here.

Gina, this great motor, one of the first 100hp motors on the water. I am in the middle of restoring a '63 Merc 1000. I am in my second year of restoration. I am a amateur, like you.

The advice you got from daveswaves is correct. It sounds like it is a lot of work, and it can be if you let it. My advice is to approach it with curiosity and a manual. Take your time and enjoy the experience. Take pictures of everything so you know how all the wires attach and how everything is set up. Ask lots of questions here in this forum.

I am lucky to have someone in the area (Seattle) that is the Doctor of Mercury motors. Thom Adams, aka Dr. Frankenmerc is a marvelous mechanic and has helped me greatly.

You will basically have to take the all the items on the front of the motor off: starter, carbs, choke solenoid and coils. In restoring mine we had to replace all the wires in the internal harness. The external harness was also fried. The insulation just falls off the wires. It is a real challenge. The coils may be fried. The carbs may be goey. But the motor is a monster and worth saving.

Luckily you have some great suppliers at your fingertips. Dr. Frankenmerc has every part for that motor. Joe at fergusonpoolemarine.com/ also has every part and will give you loads of free advice, like Thom.

Thom may chime in here to give you more advice. Just know that it is a challenge, but well worth it when you are flying down the lake.

Thom

Thank you Daveswaves and Headley! I really appreciate the advise and encouragement. It's sounds like there's quite a bit involved in getting such a beast back in the water, but with the help of Headley's contacts, it's good to know parts are available.

We had the motor looked at by our local Marine Mechanic. He loved it and was impressed how clean it was. He confirmed the lower unit is good by putting it in gear and it reacting appropriately, We are giving strong consideration to having him look at it and getting a compression test.

We are not experienced boaters, nor boat motor mechanics. We just happened upon this motor while looking for a trailer that fits an aluminum fishing boat we have an eye on. We prefer to sell this unit and I have it on Fiberglassics Ad. I don't feel we can give this engine it's due respect and would gladly trade for a dependable 30-40 HP Evinrude.

Here's some photos of the interior:

Another

Full unit

Faceplate

Have you tried starting it? Put on the muffs, give her some gas and give her a crank. Don't let it run long, it will need a new water impeller.

Gina, I understand that you don't really need a 100 hp and a fiberglass boat and that you were looking for a trailer. Its a beautiful package and someone on fiberglassics will be lucky to have it. I suggest that you list it as a package, boat and motor together without having your local mechanic looking at it. His charges, while valuable if you are keeping it, don't add value to a hobbyist that wants to restore the package themselves. Think about a price that you would be happy with and then list it accordingly. Most folks have a problem coming up with how much to offer, however, they have no problem deciding if what you are asking is a good deal for them.

Good luck.

Gina, trading off/selling your big merc for a "more dependable" evinrude would be like trading gold for silver ! you won't ever find another one like it.the transom holding on to that mercury is all i would be worried about when it fires

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all your input.

Phil put magic mystery oil in all cylinders and let sit overnight. This allowed him to turn the top crank completely around. Everything moved freely. He was excited about that development, so he prepared for more troubleshooting by getting the lower unit in water.

Then, he checked spark on all plugs which was successful.

Hooked up fuel and hand pumped primed until hard. He saw fuel dripping from the top carberator.

Manually choked the engine. Turned key, starter engaged and turned over the motor at starting speed, but never started. Would not pop. We will replace the impeller, however, we did notice water movement in the tank even in neutral.

He's fairly confident it's a fuel pump, fuel line issue, but not sure. Next step is to check lines and test pump.

Here's a video if this forum allows for video.

Any suggestions/advise before we take this next step is greatly appreciated.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all your input.

Phil put magic mystery oil in all cylinders and let sit overnight. This allowed him to turn the top crank completely around. Everything moved freely. He was excited about that development, so he prepared for more troubleshooting by getting the lower unit in water.

Then, he checked spark on all plugs which was successful.

Hooked up fuel and hand pumped primed until hard. He saw fuel dripping from the top carberator.

Manually choked the engine. Turned key, starter engaged and turned over the motor at starting speed, but never started. Would not pop. We will replace the impeller, however, we did notice water movement in the tank even in neutral.

He's fairly confident it's a fuel pump, fuel line issue, but not sure. Next step is to check lines and test pump.

Here's a video if this forum allows for video.

Any suggestions/advise before we take this next step is greatly appreciated.

that is one nice boat ! but the motor is the keeper. Phil almost has it. i'd bet he won't let it go when he gets it,take your time don't mess with anything you are not sure of. marineengine.com for parts and a parts diagram. i don't think it needs too much. distributor has grease fittings grease them and steering .water pump impeller will be a project your first time at it

"distributor has grease fittings grease them",...
But,...Only give the distributor grease fittings less that one pump of grease every couple of years. The grease doesn't help toe related sealed bearings, it just lubricates the bushings in the distributor drive.

"He saw fuel dripping from the top carburetor."
Sounds like he needs to replace or adjust the float needles before proceeding.
If he finds that there is a black rubber 'washer/seal' in the brass seat for the float needle,...He should replace the needle & seat kit. Sierra Marine part number 18-7057, available through NAPA if you don't have a Mercury Dealer in your area. (I have had much better luck using Sierra Marine rather than Mercury parts for this maintenance/repair)
I would encourage him to replace the needle & seat assembles in all three carburetors while he is in the mode. I would also encourage him the replace the floats. Sierra # 18-7208.
He doesn't need to remove the carburetors to do this.

If he just wants to hear the beast momentarily start,...
Make sure the water pump is supplied water (barrel or 'muffs'),
Use the control box, set in Neutral gear,
Advance the small neutral throttle lever full forward,
Spray carburetor cleaner into the throat of all three carburetors, (1/2 second bursts of spray is enough)
Key 'ON',...Choke button held down firmly, and start the beast.
It will probably quit promptly, unless you have the fuel tank full of 50:1 primed and ready to continue the running.
If so,...Be sure that he is prepared to slow the neutral throttle lever down once the beast starts and starts to rev up.
I have attached a 'start' document, that can be very helpful with both cold and warm start ups.
doc


Sorry about the E-D-B-D pix,...

Beautiful boat ! I have the exact same engine, shes all that and then some ! mine sat for over 7 years before I got my hands on her,it hasnt taken much at all for me to stay on the water the last 4 seasons, mostly thanks to all the great people on here. Im sure youd have some interested folks on here if you put her up for sale. Best Luck

Thank you, Doc.

Yes, Phil greased the distributor beforehand. He's going to try starting it today using the carb cleaner.

Thank you for the attachment. He did have the neutral throttle forward, but if it starts, we'll be sure to back it down again to keep it under 2000 rpm. The 5 gallons we put in the tank is a 50:1 mix with an octane booster additive as the fuel we had on hand was unleaded 87 octane. We'll be sure to use 90+ in the future.

I'm at Sierra Marine Supply as was able to quickly find the parts with the numbers you specified. Sent them email for the impeller kit, water and fuel pump kits as well. I couldn't locate those parts on their site a I don't have part number nor does the description off year ranges as such. I expect I'll hear back later today.

Again, thanks for the encouragement and start up sheet!

Gina

Thank Discoboater,

Phil is pretty excited about getting this running. Not sure what he wants to do with it afterwards. He's talking having two boats: one classic pleasure and one aluminum fishing.

It's good to see that twinkle back in his eye.... Let's do this!

Gina

Thanks Turtles,

I agree, we are not prepared to open her up just yet. I'm working on getting some replacement parts for needle seats, water and fuel pumps kits, and impeller kit. Hoping to get her to turn over today, thanks to Doc's advise and start up sheet.

I'll tried posting video yesterday, but didn't have much luck. Our internet is a slug out in our rural location. If nothing else, perhaps a photo.

Gina

"The 5 gallons we put in the tank is a 50:1 mix with an octane booster additive as the fuel we had on hand was unleaded 87 octane. We'll be sure to use 90+ in the future."

Although 90+ octane is preferred, the beast should run just fine on 87 octane.
More importantly, try and use ethanol free gasoline.
If the gas pump is posted with "contains less than 10% ethanol" you want to avoid those pumps.
Ethanol free, or 'clear' is what you will want to track down & use.
Enter your state into www.pure-gas.org and the ethanol free stations & their ethanol free octane levels will be presented.

I have not personally been a victim of melt down from use of an octane boosting additive, but I have heard that stuff can melt pistons. Again,...Just something I've heard and consequently avoid.
doc

Thanks Doc!

Looks like Vegas is our closest ethanol location on the list. I'll keep my eye out for clear gas in the future.

Doc, in trying to locate parts, it looks like an engine model number/type is sometimes needed. We have the serial number, but can't locate any model number... Any idea where to find that on the motor?

Gina

HI Everyone,

After using a carb cleaner, all cylinders are working and it's running smooth. It appears we may need a new starter and/or cylinoid, as it didn't always want to engage, but she eventually fired up! The impeller seems fine as the water was bubbling and moving pretty good without being in gear.

RMPs were at around 2000 while cold start black handle was forward. After warming up, RPM came down to about 1100-1200 once black handle was brought down. He eased her into forward and reverse gear (without much throttle) and the engine remained steady and smooth.

Also, Phil tried starting manually with the rope pull and she started up on first pull. We are going to get a compression test week.

Wow! It's an exciting day!

HI Everyone,

After using a carb cleaner, all cylinders are working and it's running smooth. It appears we may need a new starter and/or cylinoid, as it didn't always want to engage, but she eventually fired up! The impeller seems fine as the water was bubbling and moving pretty good without being in gear.

RMPs were at around 2000 while cold start black handle was forward. After warming up, RPM came down to about 1100-1200 once black handle was brought down. He eased her into forward and reverse gear (without much throttle) and the engine remained steady and smooth.

Also, Phil tried starting manually with the rope pull and she started up on first pull. We are going to get a compression test week.

Wow! It's an exciting day!

You can thank the mechanic who did the storage lay-up, they did an excellent job. It's really remarkable that you had good spark, since the points will "haze" over during prolonged periods of sitting.

Nothing like the sound of a classic Tower of Power coming back to life!

Definitely change the impeller if you plan on taking it for a run in the water. I guarantee you will regret not doing so! After sitting for so long, the impeller blades take a "set" and the pump will not pump efficiently. You also stand a chance of an impeller blade breaking off and being pushed into the powerhead, where it will require expensive disassembly to extract the foreign part.

If you're on a tight budget, all you really need is a new impeller and maybe some consumables like gaskets & O-rings.

Here's an aftermarket impeller from a reputable eBay seller for $13.29 shipped:



And this pump repair kit from the same seller has all the gaskets, O-rings, and more for $21.39:



Well-worth the investment and with our help you CAN do this job yourself. It'll also increase the value of your motor beyond the $$$ to do the job. Plus you have the piece of mind knowing that if you take the boat out for a run, your valuable motor isn't going to burn up!

No special tools are required; if you have a socket set, some combination wrenches (and probably an allen wrench for the trim tab), it's a straightforward process.

Anyway, congrats on the successful lite-off, keep us posted!.....ed

Gina, next step and available on eBay (sometimes cheap) or maybe loaned at local library mercury outboard service manual 1965' and prior part # C-90-25500. be very careful not to cross thread compression gauge when testing cylinders the bottom cylinder is hard to get at. you have resurrected the MONSTER just in time for Halloween. good on Phil