TOPIC: Sea Ray 280 stringer replacement

Just finished removing the star board engine stringer along with the fuel area stringer on this 280 and needed some advice. The boat is on the trailer with the bunks under the outer stringers and the trailer is blocked on stands. We have constructed cradles under the two inner stringers systems from the transom past the mid-section of the boat. Would it now be wise to go ahead and remove port side as well or do I need to replace one at the time. If I need to replace one at the time, can I go ahead and bed the stringers with epoxy bedding and then remove the port side and glass them all in one shot? The other question is, can I remove the old stringer glass back to the hull so I can remove this "bondo" bedding to make it easier to remove........right now I have a 1 or 2 inch. Thanks in advance guys!!

Well being that I can't see exactly what you got in my mind I'm thinking if you not sure I would do one side at a time. Just how bad are they? If they are basically gone then they are not giving much support so I'd take them out as long as your sure it won't move. Is the front of the boat secured? There are people here more knowledgeable here than I.

Here are a few pics. Thanks

I'm sure no expert either Lakeside, but sometimes my lack of knowledge gets the conversation going and someone who is will chime in.

Sounds like you have the hull supported pretty well, I don't see any reason you couldn't do both stringers at once. It wouldn't hurt to take some measurements at various points to make sure it doesn't get "out of whack", if you know what I mean. I think it would be much easier to do it that way, get all the de-construction and grinding done before beginning the re-fabrication .....?

can I remove the old stringer glass back to the hull so I can remove this "bondo" bedding to make it easier to remove........right now I have a 1 or 2 inch

I sure would take her down to the bare hull. It makes for much stronger construction if you do it that way, I was told. I believe the rule of thumb is 1/4" bedding between the hull and the stringer, 1 to 2 inches sounds like too much to me.

Just my two cents worth, good luck and keep us posted on your progress with plenty of pics!

Thanks MarkS!!! the 1 to 2 inches was in the glass that i left after removing the stringer........i have now taken that down to the hull.
Getting ready to order the resin and glass and need alittle advice, unsure what I really need. The glass on the stringer looks like all chopper gun CSM on this sea ray. The stringer has several curves to cover. so need a liile direction here . I plan to use epoxy instead of VE due to the shelf life and had planned to epoxy coat the entire ply section to help prevent future water damage. What glass and layup do I need with this plan or is there a better way to seal the wood and stay with VE so I can use more CSM to cover the curves.

Well I'm a rookie at this (as stated above), so maybe one of the gang with more experience can fill you in on the important details. I used Polyester resin on my project, due to cost limitations. (Would have preferred epoxy, but we do the best we can with what we have to work with ya know!?) I sealed the wood for stringers and floor with resin before installing, then used biaxial cloth on the stringers and csm on both sides of the floor. (Biax tape to cover the joints and seams of the floor.)

Mine was not conventional with what you have. My wooden Keel is not encased with glass but bedded with glass. When I replaced part of it I bedded it with Tiger Hair type glass. It was so similar to what was in it you can't see the difference. I have never encased one like you have. My wooden keel was inside the boat and exposed. That pic the boat was upside down so that is why it looks funky.