TOPIC: Bracing the hull when removing the deck

The next major part of my 59 Glastron restoration is to remove the deck. Having never done this before, I am not sure of everything I need to do. My current concern is if there is going to be a problem with the hull in terms of strength and keeping it's shape without the deck. Any thoughts if this is an issue and how to brace the hull if needed. I would like to be able to finish both parts of the hull before I put it back together.

I have started a project page in the Members Projects section and will try and document everything as I go along.

Thoughts?

Well Todd, it's been a few days and no input, so I'll be glad to throw in my two cents worth......(I was waiting and hoping one of the more experienced folks would chime in here.)

When I did the stringers and floor in my GT, (the transom had already been replaced) I just moved the bunks on the trailer as far out as they would go , and up a few inches, and left it on the trailer. The experts recommend supporting the hull in a cradle, mainly to keep the curvature in tact. I let the keel hang, which kept everything pretty much in tact. (You DO want to be careful crawling into the empty hull, she gets pretty flimsy without the structure inside!) Each hull is probably a little different, but I think this method of supporting the outermost part of the hull would be sufficient. Since you have a much nicer trailer, (wooden ?) blocks from the frame to support the hull farther forward could also be added. I also attached some cross braces to the gunnel area in several spots, but tired of working over and around them and eventually removed them completely.

I had very little trouble fitting the deck to the hull again, maybe just "beginner's luck"?! Can't wait to see you get started on this Glassic, she's going to be a beauty when you're done I'm sure.

Todd,

Before I split a boat I buy lumber to make a "gurney" for the top deck. I usually buy a pair of 16 foot 2X4s and a pair of studs (8foot) When splitting the hull - lift either the port or starboard side just enough to slip one of the long 2X4s between the hull and the deck. For strength - the lumber needs to be on edge, not on face. Then lift the other side just enough to slip the other 2X4 into position. Then use the 8 footers to tie the ends together. Cut off any excess - but be sure to leave enough wood beyond the hull & deck to make a nice lifting point. Then get 3 friends or relatives to help you lift the deck off of the boat. You will want to set the ends of the lumber on sawhorses. You can also cut some legs to support the middle point of the lumber so the 2X4s dont sag in the middle. This will make the deck easy to handle & will keep it from getting wrecked. If the open hull is very "floppy" cut some "spanners" out of 2X4 or 2X3 lumber. Screw a couple little blocks of wood to the spanner where the hull lip meets the 2X4 - this will prevent the hull glass from creeping outward or inward. Choose your support points on the hull VERY carefully. I personally like to support the hull in 2 places - right at the "heel" where the transom meets the bottom - and at the Prow of the boat - where the shape and contour of the V provide support without flexing.

I assume that you will be replacing the floor/stringers what have you, so bracing the hull is a good idea, as the wood comes part way up the hull. If not held in place and the wood cut over sized it will push the top sides of the hull out.
I simply fit a strip of wood to the inside of the hull, prior to removing the deck & screwed it in place when the deck was off. Your boat is bigger than mine, so you may want to use several strips.
Here's where a picture is worth a thousand words
Cheers
Bill

I'm apples and oranges here but when I removed the topside from my woodie I braced it across the top every few feet. This was before flipping. When I removed the top from the glass Herters I screwed three 2x4's across the inside. Put fender washers on the screw heads so they wouldn't pull through. I was able to screw some dolly wheels on the boards when the boat was flipped to make it easy to move about.