TOPIC: Is Water in the Lower Unit a Big Problem?

It's done since I got it - leaked oil out and water in. I've tried to fix it a few times, including this last time when I had the lower unit completely off and put all new gaskets in it. If anything I made it worse.

I'm tempted to just let it go and change the oil a lot.

It's 1966 Starflite 100 with electric shift.

I've had the same thing for years with my 63 75 hp electric shift. Put seals in and it helped for a while,then goes to getting water in it again. As far as hurting it,I'd think it don't do it any good, but I feel as long as it's changed at least at the end of the season and not allowed to sit all winter and separate water from oil,it's not terrible. It hasn't affected mine. When I change mine, I rinse my gearcase out with clear kerosene and allow it to dry and refill with type C electric shift oil for the winter.Mine's had water in it off and on for decades and the only problem I've ever had out of the electric shift was the wire running through the exhaust housing finally burning in two after 40 years use.

Good practice is to pressure test before and after the repairs !!!

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You will find the leaks.

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There should be NO WATER in one of those units.

I was thinking I'd change the oil a couple three times per season. I'm lucky if the motor gets 50 hours of use a year. Yes I plan on moving somewhere that will allow that to change.

Do you have a detailed list of all the gaskets / seals / o-rings that were installed with part #s ??????

Next time you are taking it apart look and see if there is any wiggle in your shafts and are straight and true. I take it your prop is not been damaged? I've seen many an outboard with a chunk out of a blade that the owner does not seem to care or mind. Look and see if the "Backyard grind job has not been done to it to take knics out. I had a Merc with a sloppy shaft once. I put a donor case on and all was fine.

If your going to change the oil that much get and old crock pot and save the oil till you can fill the crock pot 3/4 full than turn it on low and let it cook the water out and reuse. I know some of you will be screming about this but I have about 40 motors and do this all the time.
Its up to you and your money.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

pathfinderz1 wrote:

If your going to change the oil that much get and old crock pot and save the oil till you can fill the crock pot 3/4 full than turn it on low and let it cook the water out and reuse. I know some of you will be screming about this but I have about 40 motors and do this all the time.
Its up to you and your money.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

I've got a quart of "milk" saved to try that idea Mike.

crock pot 3/4 full than turn it on low and let it cook the water out and reuse
Its up to you and your money.

burn electricity and fool around with it to save a couple bucks of used oil???

pressure test the unit & fix it

Type C electric shift oil is more expensive than standard oil.

really? maybe more, a little more expensive.. I have an OMC electric shift outdrive... but its not worth the aggravation & risk by any stretch .........
& it may not happen with this brand of motor I do not know them but I have an OMC electric shift destroyed by water causing shorting out in the gear box
& isnt the specific electric shift oil dielecrtic so the oil doesnt transmit electric current, & its a Superior moisture displacer ..isnt that the point?

we all have a difference of opinions including the quality of workmanship, fixit right is my motto

All I know is I have had water in the gearcase at different times with no consequence. I have not implied it's all right to leave it like that without trying to stop the water from entering. I just recently installed another seal kit and upgraded my upper bearing retainer to an O-ring type instead of the older gasket type.In my opinion it's not good to have water in it, but it's worse when the water separates from the oil and settles down at the bottom of the gearcase around the electromagnets, gears and bearings for months on end during the winter.

Type c oil and the word " dielectric " do not go together.

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Type c oil has no special electrical properties what so ever !!!!!!

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From many years of " electric shift " repairs.

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Electric shift is wonderful/ simple and dependable.

Type c oil and the word " dielectric " do not go together.

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Type c oil has no special electrical properties what so ever

thanks I will have a talk with my OMC dealer..I asked if a lower viscosity oil would be fine,I should have looked it up when he was giving me the hard sell

Correct, it has to do with the viscosity of the oil.

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It has to get out of there when the spring clamps onto the drum.-Nothing to do with electrical properties.

professor wrote:

Correct, it has to do with the viscosity of the oil.

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It has to get out of there when the spring clamps onto the drum.-Nothing to do with electrical properties.

OK professor,I have a question for you. Is there any other type of machine oil or readily available oil that can be substituted for the type C? The C is hard to find around here in my area.Most boat supplies look at you like your crazy when you ask for electric shift oil type C or premium blend. I do have one guy that gets close to $10.00 for a 10 oz tube.

Automatic transmission fluid ( Dexron ) will be close in viscosity.---Others may work as well.---Compare viscosity #'s on the various types.

you need to check the shaft seal surfaces, any bearing wobble, and be sure they are straight.
water and oil do not mix you will kill the life out of it. Keep the unit dependable. You may need to get a speedy-sleeve or have someone weld and turn the seal surfaces back to specification in order for the seals to work right.

professor wrote:

Automatic transmission fluid ( Dexron ) will be close in viscosity.---Others may work as well.---Compare viscosity #'s on the various types.

Just thinking about the issue of the gearcase not being vented to allow for expansion of lubricate.Would this play a role in the type of oil also?I'm thinking something somewhere uses the same oil. If we knew what,I bet you could get it a lot cheaper. my 2 cents

Gear cases are not vented.

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Oil builds up pressure on a running motor and this helps seal it

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If the seals are in good condition !!

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If the seals are bad then oil is quickly pumped out.

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Then water leaks in.

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I have not seen a list of the replaced parts on the lower unit in the first post !