TOPIC: Argh! Convince me not to sell my boat

Or make me a good offer ($1800 would do it, as seen later). My Fabuglas Sea Gull is adorned with a 1966 Evinrude Starflite 100. The engine is in remarkable condition. Clean, low hours, never seen salt water. Except that I can't get it run right. New reeds, new fuel pump (electric but I still have the original) carb rebuilt, all new ignition system, new wire harness, prop balanced.

It will start and run but drop it in the water and it doesn't make power, usually it dies as soon as I put it in gear, if it stays running it tops out at about 8 mph. Last night I discovered that it is likely a timing issue - there's that one timing mark on the distributer bracket that just looks like a casting mark, could be a breakthrough.

So after a good part of the last couple months thinking I have it and it still not working, last night it started leaking an oil/water mix out the lower unit and I discovered that my new distributer rotor has been sawing away on the contacts inside the cap leaving brass shavings inside the distributer.

And now the capper is that there's a nice inboard/outboard for sale on the local craigslist, good running order with wakeboard, waterskis and PFDs. $1800 obo.

Argh!

I believe that I responded to your questions about this before but not sure. Do you have a shop manual???

Ditch the aftermarket pump and put the OEM one back on before doing anything else. Just trust me on this, OK? I can assure you that the OEM pump will push more gasoline than the electric one you bought can. Be sure that all the vacuum lines are in the correct location and in good condition.


There is a timing mark on the block between the flywheel and the distrubutor. If your engine has a lifting ring or flywheel guard you'll have to remove this to see what's going on. It is just to the left of the upper water jacket cover. The timing belt runs just in line with the mark as well. Facing the engine from the rear, the mark will be found on the left hand side of the belt. Turn the flywheel till the mark on the wheel sits just over the mark on the block. The number 1 piston should be at top center. Remove the plug on number 1 & put a welding rod in there to confirm the piston is TDC. There are different distributor bodies, but most will have the timing mark on the left hand side by the starter relay microswitch. Some disto belt pullys have no mark on them. Remove the disto cap & check that the rotor is pointed at the # 1 disto cap post, and that 1 set of points has just opened. This is a fixed at idle timing only, and is not critical. The throttle must be at idle. If you get it a belt notch or two too far retarded the engine will not idle fast enough and die. If it is a couple notches too far advanced, it will idle too fast.

With the ignition off, slowly advance the throttle and watch to see that the disto rotates and advances freely and smoothly. At or around 1/2 throttle the disto should be up against the maximum advance stop. Shine a flashlight inside the carb throat to confirm the throttle plates are fully open.

If all else fails, consult a marine mechanic. Even if the motor were completely worn out with barely any compression, it would still have enough power to plane the boat.

As for incentive to not give up, here is a little clip of my junkyard 75 with a fresh tune up. Your 100 should sound just like this.

I do have a shop manual.

I think I'm getting the timing worked out but I will follow the steps you suggest. Knowing for sure the required throttle position will be helpful. Finding the previously unknown timing mark should be helpful as well.

I will have to accept your knowledge on the fuel pump. The reasons I went electric were:

1: we were trying to eliminate fuel starvation as a possible culprit.

2: I rebuilt it a year ago and already the diaphragm is stretched and will not return to "flat." I was thinking the loose diaphragm may have cut efficiency.

3: I need a new fuel pump in my old truck and the one I bought will work for it as well, so either way I wasn't out anything. No modifications were made to the motor so the original will drop right back in.

I will check the throttle plates as you suggest, I don't they are completely open until about 3/4 throttle.

The marine mechanic is about 2 miles from my house. Until recently it's been fun working on it myself, but that may be the ultimate solution.

Thanks for the video and the tips Bruce. Is that Shasta Lk? Whiskeytown? How is the water level this year?

And the beautiful little Reinell. Jetabout? Beautiful to hear that engine at wot. Encourages me to do the same with the 60 hp Erude that came off a G-3. Thanks again, Mike

wavetrain75 wrote:

I do have a shop manual.


I will check the throttle plates as you suggest, I don't they are completely open until about 3/4 throttle.

I looked at what I typed & realized that I messed up on that.
What I had intended to say was -

to be sure the plates are fully open at wide open throttle setting. The plates move from to 2/3 open to fully open in just the last quarter of the entire throttle range.


Mike - yes, it's Shasta. Levels have been very high this year. boat is a Jetflite. Thanks