TOPIC: Chrysler Rebuild

Purchased online from eBay a 1972 Chrysler charger 16' with a Chrysler 105hp motor. Over the course of a year I plan on a complete rebuild of the boat interior and transom. Lots of pictures. I've restored MANY glassics and woodies over the years but took a few years off. Now I'm getting back into the disease and hope to share some tips and get some tips. Follow along.
The "Sabre" name came from a Century that I restored a long time ago and got acquainted with this website.

Started today. For info this is my work area in my basement. Pretty cramped but I share it with three cars.
The morning was spent cleaning the rusted tight and corroded shifter. there was a mouse nest in there for 24 years and it was not moving. Witness marks where someone tried moving the shift button with a plyers. Other pics are of the interior after starting to gut it out. Surprising solid floor since Chrysler filled the entire bilge area with solid foam. Only rotted area was around the screws that held the seats in place.
I'll be jumping around subject matter, I get bored real easy and need to change the pace.

I'm thinking these things were built like tanks but I'd bet the foam has absorbed water. My Evinrude was saturated but still solid too.

I'm guessing if nothing else, you'll need to remove rear flooring a foot or so from transom forward to investigate & repair the visual damage. That will give you an honest idea if it's waterlogged.

Couple things today. Got the Clymer manual for the motor and best of all the PO who only lives 5 miles from me called and I got news of what I suspected all along. The transom did not rot out, the bilge plug was left in over winter and water froze and separated the transom from the hull. That gives me another avenue of approach. I plan on drilling a few core samples in the floor to see if its waterlogged or not and then do the drill test on the transom to see if it's dry or not. PO said it was covered but I wouldn't take that to the bank. Also there were three or four different variations of the 105hp motor concerning electronics. Tracing wires didn't make sense until I found out that the control box had been replaced at one time. Tomorrow I'll do a compression check and see if I can get a poop out of it. I don't have a gas tank for it or muffs so I'll spray some gas in the carbs to see what happens. Of course the impeller will be replaced either way.

\\Doing exploratory on the motor today. Compression is excellent, starter, solenoid, circuit breaker, interlock switch all working as they should. Dizzy is hard to see using mirror but it looks like the points are not lined up or burned.
Question for anyone, can the points be replaced without taking the dizzy off. I can see where someone already messed around in there. I don't think the timing is set correctly. mark on the dist does not coincide with anything on the flywheel. The dist. advance was hardened up with old grease so I freed that up with carb cleaner and WD. Also can the coil and CD unit be tested? It's a no spark issue.

Found a service manual for the motor that downloaded in a PDF. Looking at the timing marks it might be in the proper position, opins?
All the wiring checks out for continuity so I'm looking directly at the CD module/coil combo. Not the chepist part but I think I found a replacement/upgrade that replaces the part #. Prices jump from $460. to $395, same unit different dealers. Again, opinions??