TOPIC: IS MY TRANSOM SEPERATING?

I was just cleaning the aluminum on my boat and noticed that the right side of the transom looks like it is seperating from the back! How do i fix this?

heres another pic of the right side, closer to the engine.

And here is the normal left side

Hopefully one of the guys/gals with more experience will correct me if I'm wrong here, but I believe that is a sign water has infiltrated the transom. The wood is probably absorbing it and expanding, probably rotting. Think I'd be for checking this out by pulling any hardward mounted back there to see what the wood is like inside the mounting holes, and poke around with a screwdriver down in the crack and on the inside to see of it's soft and mushy. The wood also usually turns black if it's been exposed to water and starting to rot. You can also do the "knock test" where you rap the transom, solid wood will ring back where rotten wood will be more of a dull thud. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, you may want to get some more opinions, but I'd sure check it out pretty soon!

Pull that aluminum trim off and see what it looks like underneath. Chances are, you got some water in there but doesnt necessarily mean your transom is toast. Pull the trim off and start poking with something pointy...an awl works good. If you find rotted wood, dig it out and see how far down it goes. If its just a small amount of rot, you can dig it out and fill it in with something like SeaCast or a mixture of resin and glass. If the woods really soft all over and just coming out in chunks and it covers a large area, its time for a transom replacement.

Hopefully you caught the problem early...

my only problem is that the aluminum railing is riveted on there, i have no clue how to properly take that off or put it back on? will this be something i can look for with a flash light when i open the transom door in the front? will i see wood in the back or fiberglass?

I noticed the rivets, you'll need to drill them out carefully. I would use a drill bit about half the diameter of the rivet head, and the head should pop off after drilling down through it. Center punch the rivet head to help keep the drill bit from sliding off and damaging the trim piece, and proceed carefully, you'll get the hang of it.

I'd use stainless steel screws to reassemble, and some 3M 5200 sealant. Hope Jerrfy is right and the damage is minimal, BTW.

Can you take some pics of the "transom door"?

PS - Good advice on checking the transom:
www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/main-forum/tramsom-inspection-for-internal-rot

Just as a friendly comment, I use 3M 4200 for stuff I may want to remove from time to time, 5200 for permanent stuff. So if you remove it, do a temporary repair and are going to take it off again to do something more permanent over the winter of next spring, use 4200. If after removal, you find there's not a problem, or are able to fix for good whatever is the problem, use 5200.

Good luck!

Frank

Also, when you buy the stainless screws, buy a thin PVC washer that is one size smaller than the screw. It will still go on and the outside diameter is very close to the diameter of the screw head. If you put the washer on, the stainless won't come in contact with the aluminum and you won't get and reaction between the two dissimilar materials, plus you won't see it.

My vote for 4200 over 5200 as well

Hey MarkS, im not sure if the transom door is the right name for it, but im talking about the wooden door inside my boat that lifts up to show my battery and gas tank. i probably didnt call it the right name...do you still want or need me to take a picture of it?

Naw, that's okay now that I know you're talking about the bilge hatch, or door. Do you have access thru there to get to the wood in the transom? Some boats have exposed wood under there, some are glassed in on that side as well. Not sure about your boat, you'll just have to check it out. You can shoot a pic or two if you'd like, then we can see what you've got to deal with. The top strip removal should tell the story, however.

The plastic washers Tudor mentioned are a good idea, two dissimilar metals will have a reaction to each other, sorry I forgot to mention that. Many people do also prefer the 4200, I just happen to like using the 5200, it's a personal preference I guess. As long as it gets sealed up well, that's the important part I believe.