TOPIC: Cutting a hole in a fin

Converting the '58 Tomahawk from cable to push/pull steering and need to punch a good size hole in a beautiful starboard fin. The cable system ran under the fin but the push rod needs to line up straighter. Any advice on how to get the hole in the right place so nothing binds? Putting a Evinrude Triumph on it. Still in the process of sanding and filling but want to make a prelim dry fit.

I'll take a picture of where mine are when I'm out in the shed tomorrow

Any way to use a little laser tool? They sell some little cheapy ones with magnetic or clip on mounts.

Thanks Shake. I'll just be scribing the circle and using my Dremel cutter. Just want to get it lined up pretty close with the motor steering bracket. I would need Gene to take a measurement for me off the Triumph of how far up the bracket is from the transom and how far it sticks out from the motor.

Sounds like a bad decision from here. Not a thing wrong with cable steering especially if it saves a big hole in a fin.

Are you going to be able to make that tight of a turn coming out of the fin towards the motor? I know the fin is not very wide, and the push/pull cable won't do well with a tight corner. Just a thought.
Bill

All Dunn II wrote:

Are you going to be able to make that tight of a turn coming out of the fin towards the motor? I know the fin is not very wide, and the push/pull cable won't do well with a tight corner. Just a thought.
Bill

I have been wondering the same thing, putting rack n pinion in my Custom Craft and a bit concerned myself.
Keep the pics coming on this please.

mock it up first. you know the cable will sit on the outside edge of the fin. get the hardware attached to the motor and bend things until you find where the radius of the cable will go through. then cut the hole.

Did the mockup like you said, (tks) The fin is large enough to accept the curve. The cable will rise up the inside top of the fin, turn gently down and exit about 3" from the bottom. The fin itself is almost 8" wide at the bottom so there will be a compound curve with some room for lateral adjustment to center the steering wheel itself.
The motor end of the cable is a ball and socket design so it will accept any angle. I'll post pictures later. If for some reason it fails after installation I'll just professionally repair the hole.
Got lotsa practice doing that with previous builds. Here's a few 3 1/2" holes in the dash that are filled. PO had a radio hole, and two large holes for a speedo and tach.

I would not cut the hole, but instead route the cable as in your fourth picture. It does not look like the splashwell mounting you appear to plan to install will have anywhere near enough adjustment for the width involved. I would advise that a tube held by a bracket(s), in turn attached by the two upper outboard mounting bolts, be utilized for the steering cable attachment, and then a link arm from the cable's end eye to the Evinrude steering arm. By the way, a transom mounting bracket as is typically seen would work with the width involved, but the large hole required for the steering cable to articulate up and down, as the outboard tilts up and down, would not be pleasing (for such a large hole). Do the person you are going to sell this to when your done a favor, and do the steering attachment well

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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Joe, I appreciate your expert input. Now you have me thinking of different alternatives. The transom mount will not be feasible though. I had to raise the transom 5" to accommodate a 20 incher but in the process did not want to take away the appeal of the fins so a rise in the center and a curve back down to the 15" had to be done so there is no mounting point available for brackets. It seems like this 1958 Tomahawk was a transition period. The motor well almost looks like an afterthought. It's possible to bring the cable under the fin like you suggested by modifying the well and adding a small bulkhead for the circular mount and not molesting the fin at all. Not finished with the transom yet. Doing it safely and properly is foremost. When I turn a classic boat I think of my grandchildren riding in it.

Here hopefully is a picture of a factory produced kit as I tried to explain. Since the top of the transom is apparently to be four to five inches taller than shown, a hole a little larger than the steering cable may be needed (versus having the cable dip down and then back up).

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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I have to mail Gene about the '72 Evinrude Triumph that I'm swapping with him. Here is the mount on my 135hp '74 Evinrude Starflite. If the Triumph has the same setup all the fixes come together because I have the linkage and connections, just not the motor bracket.
As you can see from the bottom picture the motor well was never really a part of the transom. It is all being repaired properly.

A 1972 Evinrude 65 horsepower should have a long carriage bolt that holds both clamp brackets to the swivel bracket, and yes the very same bolt pattern as the 1974 135 horsepower (1/2 inch bolts at 12 & 7/8 inch centers - width between the upper bolts, the lower bolts are 9 & 7/8 inch on centers). 1973 is the first year for the Mercury like tilt tube, or you would not be having the issue. I am not sure that the aluminum tube from the splashwell assembly will work for you, because I do not know of a readily available nut which will fit the ?Acme? thread style utilized (where the plastic ball halves fit). Having a threaded area is best, as it allows for adjustment of the tube in regard to the mounting. Take care with producing a link arm, as most all ball joints or heim joints will lack the range of movement unless you can successfully bend the rod you might plan to connect between them. A clevis end (or ends) would be best.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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Thanks for the picture of that motor mounted bracket. Looks like an easy setup to configure using the "acme?" tube and stainless "U" bolts. I can have an aluminum angle bracket welded up to match the upper mounting bolts. The stainless link rod and accompanying ends I already have. Might be a month or so until Gene and I get together for the swap. Two old guys wrestling some beefy motors off a trailer should be worth the price of admission. I do have a chainfall and nylon straps hanging in my garage to help out
I think you saved the starboard fin Joe, thanks.
Cal

Score a point for hole reduction. Can't say I can envision a compact enough design (which does not interfere when the outboard is tilted-up) that is adjustment friendly, using u-bolts and the splashwell aluminum tube. Likewise for most any factory produced link arm being a proper fit. Good luck Jim (Mr. Phelps), I mean Cal, this tape will self-destruct in five seconds.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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Again, thanks for the alternative. That's what's great about Fiberglassics, professional people giving unbiased opinions and suggestions. Now back to work!

Finished the transom "raising". Installed a complete transom vs the half board that was original. Managed to keep the flair of the fins while raising to 20".

Kind of like that...kept the full value of the fins, yet the motor will be a bit more visible from side views...I like seeing those too.

I would love to see a picture or two from the inside so I can see splash-well. Also, I could use help understanding where to buy the sleeves for drain holes and how to best install...do you oversize the hole, and then epoxy back in so that when you drill the actual size, you do not expose wood again to prevent opportunities for "drinking-in water" and starting the rotting process all over again? ...or do you just seal when you install with epoxy or that 3M 5200?
Dr.Go!

The ebay item id given is invalid, no result has been sentThe brass sleeves are still original. I've done those drain holes several ways. The brass sleeve replacements can be bought online or west marine has them on the shelf. They come in different sizes and lengths to choose from. You need a special tool to flair the ends after installation. A few years back there were some posts on installing them and someone made a tool for the job. Someone will probably chime in here.
I sent you a mail with the other pictures of the complete transom inside bottom. If you need more mail me back
Here are some links to different types of fittings.





www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y89OQY

Thanks for sending me the picture message Cal I will check that out tonight - you have been a big help. If I was sure Icould do this correctly, then I would not be "on the fence" of whether to even install the lower drain plug on my tiny 13 footer...I know it is convenient, but just wonder how much I need it since my hull is open to reach the bottom back unlike my modern boat that uses bilge for big water removal and drain for on-shore trailering removal. Mine is so small, I can just scoop out and then sponge dry if I get much water in...help me decide if I would regret not putting in the lower one.

Cal IS the man Mark, he's helped many of us out at one time or another!

My two cents - DO put a drain hole/plug in the boat. If it gets stuck outside in a rain storm (I know you're not planning on this, but stuff happens) or something you'll wish you had! There are drain assy's that don't have to have the tool to install, or if you get on of the 1" brass tubes I'll loan you my tool to install if you promise to send it back.

Good point Mark S. Thanks...it just maid me realize the "what if I am waiting out that passing rainstorm while in the ramp parking lot when camping with not time to cover it...that alone makes it worth it by not spending time bailing before launching...had not thought of that (in my mind, I was just taking it out on "perfect" days). Even a bilge pump would not get it bone dry and take time.

Great advice here of "when to remove rose colored glasses" just for a moment to get it right!

It will be months before I will get to the drain hole part, but thank you again for the advice and offer. I Love this site and people here!!

finally remembered to snap pics of mine. ok pics to big, have to run n inspect one of our rental properties n sign a new lease with tenant. I;ll get them up later.

OK I'm about to get yelled at, lol gotta go!

Thanks Shake, now I know for certain that the '58 motor well was an afterthought on their part.