TOPIC: Roll and Tip

I've never did it before but after this morning I'm becoming a believer. Did the bottom of me latest project '64 Lone Star just to see if it could be done. That way if anything went south it would be sorta out of site. Used Rustoleum gloss white un-thinned. Weather was low 50's, cloudy. It will need a second coat but so far things look promising. Does it need a light sanding between coats?

I didn't Cal, just waited 24 hrs and went on with the second and third coats. It might be okay to sand in between coats if you wanted to make it smoother, but I'd make darn sure it was cured before doing so!

If its a bit tacky, Id go straight on. if its cured, I would go over it with some 000 steel wool. May not be necessary, bit cant hurt.

Will

It looks great! I'm looking forward to doing ours. What type of roller did you use?

Watched some of the vids on youtube which helped somewhat but it's just not the same unless you 'sparement yourself on some unseen place.
I used a short fuzzy nap roller, 4", it's what I had in the shop. Videos say you can do about a 2 sq.ft. area at once but I found out that a smaller area works better. I did an area about 16" wide and half the width of the bottom. Immediately stroke it out and blend it into the previous section. Nice thing is that if you get a sag you can still brush it out minutes later.
Hardest part was holding the little paint tray, roller and brush close to the area without spilling. Wear rubber gloves

Have you ever heard of the Roll n' Roll method? It works really well too and IMHO is a bit easier.

Roll n' Roll Technique
Use the Ultra Fine foam Paint rollers for Finishing Cabinets. Lowe's and Home Depot Both sell em.
Wet roller with paint and roll out about 4-6 square feet. Thin coats work best and help prevent runs. If you can HEAR the paint (Sticky Sound) STOP! You are rolling too long or using to much paint. Put the first roller in a Plastic bag and use another Dry roller to Re-roll the area you just painted. Use a very LIGHT stroke and the paint should flatten out with NO Bubbles!. Put this roller in the bag and use the wet roller, Load it with paint and Roll again. Repeat this process until the boat is painted. Always do the re-roll with a dry or slightly damp roller with very little paint on it and LISTEN. You will hear the sound that lets you know when it's time to stop. It's kind of a sticky sound which means the paint is trying to lift. STOP Rolling!!!

Here's a link to 2 videos showing the technique.

Rolling Technique:





Flattening the Bubbles:https://youtu.be/v0nH-GWNYBM?list=ULv0nH-GWNYBM

That looks like it would work and a smidgeon easier, I'll try it this afternoon for the second coat. Have to pick up another roller and some more pads thought. Like the one comment on the video....sounds like the fellas roller could use a new wheel bearing

Morning is busy, have to go look at someone's Pipestone for needed repairs.

I have done roll and tip on two boats using Interlux Briteside. I have heard of Rustoleum being used with success but only in bilges. I would think a marine paint specifically designed for below the waterline would be the paint of choice. I know anywhere I used Briteside below the waterline had lifting issues but was rock solid above the waterline. Has Rustoleum been well tested below water line?

yes very interested in the durability of using this paint

Craig. I understand your concern. I've also heard that lifting/bubbling/peeling etc is a problem. From what I've read most of those issues happen when the boat is left in the water for extended periods of time, several weeks at a time or season long. I'm guessing here but a larger percentage of the boats we discuss are trailer-able and weekend users that are not in the water for more than a few days or weekend with some exceptions. Rustoleum is promoted as a topside paint but if used with a hardner I've never had a problem with it on a bottom. If you plan on putting a boat in water for a season a good quality bottom paint would be required but hang on to you wallet. Rusto is the in-expensive way to go with very good results. There are several threads you can google or bing that discuss this. Here's a link to an Amazon review for their bottom paint, flat anti fouling.

www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-207012-Marine-Antifouling-1-Quart/product-reviews/B000C0140S

Cal

cal i have never done roll and tip,but when i spray paint if the coats are less than 24 hours old(depending on the type of paint)i spray over it without sanding,but if its set up,i lightly sand to give the 1st coat some teeth to hold to,like if its very shiny i make it dull,to get the paint to adhere well.
as i said it also depends on the paint manufacturer ,as an example you have to respray within 24 hours of the 1st coat if your using "Omni" brand paint,( the cheaper stuff) and you have 3 days with PPG brand paint,the more expensive paint.
but like i said i have never rolled and tipped before maybe its different,other minds better than mine that have done roll and tip will be able to help you better,john

Thanks for the info John. Been a few days since I did the job, busy with other peoples boats

Probably do a second coat this afternoon/evening. Weather here now on Sunday is cloudy and very humid so its going to give me some fiddlin' room.


UPDATE.....

Did a roll and roll this afternoon. My opinion is that it's much easier, less pressure to brush out and a smoother coat. Have to wait until tomorrow to see how the final look and feel is.
That being said and weather being damp, warm and humid the Minnesota state bird decided to check out the paint job.
DIE YOU BLOOD SUCKER!!

Don't you just hate it when gainful employment get in the way of playing with your boat!

Will

63 Sabre wrote:

Thanks for the info John. Been a few days since I did the job, busy with other peoples boats

Probably do a second coat this afternoon/evening. Weather here now on Sunday is cloudy and very humid so its going to give me some fiddlin' room.


UPDATE.....

Did a roll and roll this afternoon. My opinion is that it's much easier, less pressure to brush out and a smoother coat. Have to wait until tomorrow to see how the final look and feel is.
That being said and weather being damp, warm and humid the Minnesota state bird decided to check out the paint job.
DIE YOU BLOOD SUCKER!!

The members on the iBoats forum have used the Roll n' Roll technique a bunch with Great results. There is a bit of a learning curve but once you get the knack of it, the paint lays down really smooth. I generally recommend to always do a quick rub down of the previous coat but lately I've been using 3M Scotch Brite Pads to do the job. Just to make sure there's no "Nubs" hanging on. "Wet Water" and a light rub down then Fresh water rinse and a final wipe down with damp cloth of Mineral Spirits and then apply the next coat. As far as the Rustoleum or any other Acrylic Enamel paint goes, if the hardener is added its similar to a 2 part urethane paint and the boat can stay in the water for 2-3 weeks with no adverse effects. Any boat left in the water for periods longer than that needs to be protected with something more like an ablative paint. JMHO