TOPIC: Another cable steering question. Cable size.

Most trailer boat sized boats use 3/16s sized cable. That is what most steering fittings for small boats a are made for. But do you go with the vinyl covered cable that is 3/16 OD with a 3/32 core or 3/16 un-coated stainless cable. The former has something in the area of a 200 lb working load and breaking is about 1000. The latter is way over kill higher than that. I think the usual cable used is the former also. So am I right... left... sideways?

Use the 3/16th plastic coated. It will be a lot more flexible and coil up better on the spool on the steering wheel. If you have enough tension to break that, it is the least of your problems!!
Bill

Yea no kidding, that was what I thought also. The weakest part in a cable setup are the anchor points where the pulleys attach. These are usually backed up with wood blocks glassed in. Or better yet eyes and loops are glassed in. Those points need to be inspected regularly. Its is hard to see rot in the wood the anchors are screwed into. So those are going to give long before the cable.

So this is the recommended cable size?.... vinyl covered cable that is 3/16 OD with a 3/32 core

Keep an eye on where the pulleys are attached to any snap hooks with any type of swivel. That is what I had on my Thompson where the cables hooked on to the front of my 850 Merc. I had one come apart while turning. All I can say is I am glad I wasn't going very fast and I was alone in the boat. After that I kept a close eye on things. Last year I ran across a single cable steering system and installed it. It is the difference between night and day.
Bill

Yes.
Not this 1/8 cable 3/16ths OD version.


This 3/32 cable 3/16ths OD version. Its way more flexible.


If you have some monster twin setup that you want period look maybe you need the top one.
I like the yellow and orange colors.

Many older motors do not have a through tube for push pull steering. There were adapters back in the day. Or you can use transom anchored push pull in that case. I have a boat setup that way. But the motor is one of the early ones that did have a tube pivot, so go figure. If that cable fails its getting a through tube type. Where its anchored, and the angle it works at, means I must have the motor turned between left and center or it will bind and try to bend the cable when I tilt up. Annoying.

BUT most guys with old cable-pulley are going for originality. Keeping the OEM setup or reproducing the cable steering on period correct new construction. I find push-pull steering on 60's and back boats a bit out of place. By the '70s you expect it. Almost as jarring as seeing a new 4 stroke outboard on a classic, even if its new construction.

There should be no snaps, hooks, clips, or swivels in the system at all. Even the pulleys with hooks that come with screw on loops scare me. I don't want anything that needs tension to stay assembled in my boat. All the pulley to anchor links should be the crimped closure or threaded closure types. For cable clamps use the two piece two screw type made for coated cable. Not hardware store U clips. And put a thimble in each cable eye.

I have driven both types, on a couple of days back to back. Given a properly designed and executed cable pulley setup. I really couldn't tell much difference. Though most push pull systems are geared down like 3 to 1 pulley systems. I suspect a lot of the difference in the feel (other than more friction which is not a bad thing) of a cable pulley systems is in the capstan. I have one cheapo Attwood that has a plain spool divided in half. The cable does not wind on in any organized way, uneven and overlapping. And you do notice that in the wheel. I have another, that has a continuous cable groove. You slide the cable through the hub, leaving what you need to go to the motor out each end, then wind each ends to the center in the groove. The capstan is always full of one layer of cable, as one end pays out the other winds in, only 1 turn of groove is without cable at all times. These are smooth and do not have the uneven winding problem. Guess which is going back on the boat?

All of my Cable pulleys are thru riveted to the hull. I'd highly recommend that you consider doing the same. I use 3/16" vinyl coated cable as well. I get my supplies from here... www.boatdesigns.com/Steering/products/29/

I really cant rivet (or bolt in a dozen places) through a fiberglass hull.

But a two screw loop or a solid eye bolt. Bolted to a 1"X4X4 plywood block, epoxied on to the hull is so strong, if you rip that off its of no consequence since some much worse just happened to cause it.

Delete

This is the vinyl cable 3/16ths sized clamp I was talking about.
This one is 'seasoned' but they can still be had new.

They are the same as the ones on my Thompson and the boat I had before that. I never had a problem with them on either boat.
Bill

I use two sets of those cable locks.

Belt and suspenders mode...

yup, and I usu. tie a knot in the loose end right near the lock...lol...back up to the backup!

That's anal I just tape the dead end to the cable so I don't stick myself on the sharp ends.

l98tpi wrote:

I really cant rivet (or bolt in a dozen places) through a fiberglass hull.

But a two screw loop or a solid eye bolt. Bolted to a 1"X4X4 plywood block, epoxied on to the hull is so strong, if you rip that off its of no consequence since some much worse just happened to cause it.

My hull is fiberglass and as stated all my pulleys are thru bolted with 8x28 threaded bolts.