TOPIC: Drain tube over cut?

The local boat manufacturer of JH boats and shop (4 miles form the house) gave me their tool for flaring drain tubes when I went in to ask if they would install a new tube in one of my boats.

They do not install brass tubes any more

Well I did the first boat about a year ago, I over cut the tube about 3/8 of a inch. The job looks OK however the brass split on the flare. I went in Friday and asked John at the shop how much of a over cut I should have. He did not know for the tubes they used were order the right size and the guy that did the tubes is no longer there.

So the old story is long is better then too short, however I would like to know what the right over cut is

we did mine on the span America last summer. I made a tool for doing it. did the first crimp in the shop press and did the last one on the boat. I think that it was about 3/16 " Bob

It's been a while TT, but I believe Bob is on the money with the 3/16". The tubes I bought had one end already formed, and this made it look the same on both ends.

Wonder why the local shop quit using the brass tubes?

You can buy tubes that have one end coved- curled- flared. Then test drill a hole in something to get the right hole size for your tube. Make VERY careful measurements as to were you should drill this hole in your transom. To high you always have water inside the boat. To low and you can not flare the tube. Also check to see if you transom has any angle to it. I always drill from the back. After you have your hole drilled slide in your tube. Then I use quarter against the transom and scratch a mark for the correct length on the tube. You can cut it there,or just a little longer but not much. If you cut them too long as you tighten the flaring tool the end starts to flare and it can only flare so much then it will buckle the tube in the middle.( yes I learned this the hard way). You may not be able to get the drain plug in then.
Course after you cut for the right length and are sure all is the way you want it use plenty of 5200 on each end in the drilled hole. This is a place were to much 5200 is ok. Put on the flared tool and flare away.

This should give you all the details you need... Basically the tube should be cut so it extends beyond the transom the width of the flare of the finished side.

The first one I tried to install did just as Del described, "crinked" in the middle because I left too much to flare over. (Wanted to make sure there was a large enough flange!) The 5200 is a gooey mess, but you've GOT to remove the boo boo before it sets up or you're REALLY in trouble. I was using the "store-bought" tool too. Live and learn, good tip on the quarter, I'll have to try that next time.

If you fit a tube/pipe over the bolt just a little short of the transom thickness thats nearly the same outside diameter that the tube is on the inside, it helps prevent buckling. Its noted as the 'something' in the middle right side of Dale's rendering.

But the outside wdge of the flange does get stressed while being formed, and can split

I am thinking of trying annealing the brass a bit on the end.

This may keep it from splitting (or make it split worst) however it will keep it from buckling

I used what was laying around. Includes threaded rod and lug nuts. I did finish up with small ball peen hammer. I used a tubing cutter. I trial fitted before adding glue.