TOPIC: A question on a V-4 drive shaft

I had a little water in my lower unit and am going to put in a seal kit. My driveshaft is a little grooved and rough. Does it need replacing or is there a way to fix it or will it be good enough as is? Any thoughts appreciated.jim

Jim,

What motor? That shaft really does needs to be repaired or replaced if you want to keep water out of the gearcase. That shaft could be taken to a machine shop and repaired, but that will surely be expensive as heck. A machinist would cut out the damaged areas and weld a bead of stainless steel into the grooved area of the shaft. The weld would then be turned down flush with the original shaft diameter. A replacement with a good / undamaged part would likely be the easiest / least expensive way. Look on Ebay & see what you find.

Welding on a shaft is a tricky if not impossible job.----You could end up with a brittle areas around the weld or a bent shaft.

It's on the 62 Johnson long shaft electric shift,Bruce. I stopped by the local machine shop. He didn't recommend any way to fix it. I made an offer for a better one on flea bay. Waiting on an answer. Anybody got an good extra one they want to sell,please let me know.jim

I'm particularly concerned about where the seal below the waterpump goes. If I can't find another shaft,I have an idea as how to fix the pits where above seal fits and please don't laugh yet,but I think it might work if done right. First..wash the shaft with lacquer thinner to remove any oil then put some magnum steel putty on the pits,let harden and sand and polish down to fill in the pits. Can't really use the putty to fix the grooves. OK GO AHEAD AND LAUGH LOL.Anyone heard the old saying....Poor man's got poor ways LOL

there are some epoxies made just for doing this the owner of the
last motor cycle shop I worked for also owned a machine shop that repaired a lot of heavy machinery and fixed shafts that way

Charles

Hell Jim give it a shot. You're no worse off than you are right now.

Bob

I've spotted a NOS '65 shaft on SHEEZ-bay a little while ago. I might be wrong, but I think a shaft for a '65 model motor is better than one for a '62. I know a '65 shaft will work in a '62-'63 motor but it carries a different part#. At one point, I installed an original used OEM seal and it kept most of the water out better than a aftermarket sierra seal,but some still got in.Now I'm wanting to get this fixed once and for all! I already have a NOS upper bearing /seal/cap combo coming prolly tomorrow. I pressure checked the LU the other day underwater in a barrel with lightly compressed air being pumped in it and seen no air bubbles at all from the prop shaft seal or O-rings between the gearcase and upper housing. If ebay don't work out, I'll have no choice but to break out the silly putty,Bob LOL

Have you heard of SKF Speedi-Sleeve? This is exactly the application for them and will create a perfect seat for your seals. We put several in my Merc 1150 overhaul (lower crank seal, water pump seal and L/U gearcase seal. You DONT need to turn the shaft and can stick with your stock seal size.

You can get them through your local auto part store or find them on amazon.com. Really easy to install too!

www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/skf-speedi-sleeve-gold/index.html

The Speedi-Sleeve is an excellent suggestion - I can't believe that I forgot to mention that option. Have used them on trailer axles with great results

Thanks Dean,I checked on a speedi sleeve today.Guy said a speedi-sleeve has to be driven in place with a special tool. Which would be fine if my shaft was tapered above where the sleeve was to stop at,but instead has to be driven all the way down to the bearing collar from the very top of shaft . Since I had some other wear on the shaft besides that seal area, I just decided to get a NOS shaft and be done with it.A little pricey,but I'm through screwing with it.. I did get a NOS housing bearing and seal assembly today. Drive shaft should be here hopefully by Friday.

Take it to a GOOD Machine shop thats has a "Metalizer" When I worked as a Machinist we fixed many worn shafts like that on a lathe. Link''
www.generalrepair.com/metalizing.htm


On The SKS Speedi Sleeve, I kinda thought that it might not work, as what you said.

BUT YES on trailer inner worn seal surface's! I have to do one trailer next time a bearing replace! Speedi sleeves WORK! NAPA has'em.

Robby,I figured I'd spend more fixing my old shaft than just getting a new one. Found a later model improved NOS for $85.

OK, problem solved! Good Luck!

hi Bruce or professor, I've curently a 62 starflight IV 75hp, It is currently a long shaft, I haven't torn it apart yet to investigate. But I am wondering what D Shaft I need to delete the roughly 5" spacer from the lower case. Thanks Captn. Shake.

OK, nvm, I found the part number I needed, the short shaft for the Starflights is part number 379882 Probably be ordering mine next week.