TOPIC: '59 Lark 35 update (carburetor ?s)

Hey guys. Just a quick update on my '59 Lark.
So far......
I've purchased a carb kit and replaced the needle, seat, and bowl gasket.
Purchased a fuel pump kit and replaced all the seals, diaphragm, and sediment bag filter.
Replaced the fuel lines.
Replaced spark plugs.

Here is where the questions come in......
While I had the carb off, I decided to check the needles for any damage. When I pulled the Low Speed needle out, I noticed some "material-like" substance coming out of the ports in the air chamber when I blew some carb cleaner in it. I decided to pull everything in the low speed needle port to clean and replace. However, I didn't know that there were two little plastic rings in there before I started pulling away with my little pick. Unfortunately, the carb kit did not come with replacements for this. So I used my best guess at how much space was being taken up with them and the "packing" that was in there and just used some of the "material-like" rings that did come with the kit.
My question is..... how do I find out how much "packing" was in there originally, and what do I replace it with?

I also later realized that I forgot to put the little clip that connects the needle to the float, so I have to put that on too when I take it off to put the new float I ordered in.

Next up... When I tested the motor, it is running, but it seems that there is a lot of white smoke (more than what I anticipated). Any thoughts on this.....
Also, it seems to run fine at the "Start" setting (~1.5 turns out on the low speed needle, which I assume is because of the packing that I used being different thickness), but when I barely pull back on the throttle it dies every time.
Here is a link to the video I uploaded of it running and me trying to pull back on the throttle and it dying:

Last.... I have attached some photos of the water consistency after running in the test barrel.... my concern is the greyish bubble clusters, which I believe to be churned up unburned fuel and oil. Is this normal?

Carburetor should be closed at idle.--Sure sounds like a " lean sneeze " to me.

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Make sure throttle is not opening too soon.

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Compression values are ?

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Spark jumps a gap of 1/4" or more on a spark tester ?

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Stuff in the barrel looks fairly normal for a motor like that after 15 / 16 minutes of running.

Problem is I can't get it to idle at low speed, so the throttle is in the "start" position (which is approx half throttle). Never actually put a tester on the plugs or the cylinders. I will check the spark in the morning, but as easy as she started with the new plugs, and as hard as she was running, I didn't think of the spark as being an issue.
As far as compression, if you know how hard this thing pull started (I'm chuckling a bit here because my back is still sore)...... But I will try to check this tomorrow as well.

Does the throttle plate start to open at the correct time ?

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It must not open before that line on the cam passes the roller.

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The rod on the side with the adjustable screw thingy can you post a picture of that ?----That is often adjusted by folks because it looks to be wrong.

I assume this is what you are talking about.


Sorry for multiple posts... Doing this on an iPhone isn't easy at all.

No, the adjustment is up on top of the towershaft on the side of the motor.----Long rod that goes to the carburetor linkages.

Here is a link to a video of the side of it. Dont know if you can see it from this angle.

With the motor NOT running see if the throttle plate is completely closed when you move to the idle position on control.

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Then post a picture of that adjustable collar found on the thin metal rod that goes to the back of the motor .

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And does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more with a snap that you can hear ????

Here are some pics of that rod with the throttle all the way back. I noticed the plate in the carb was all the way open in that position. Is that normal?

Rod

I got some parts in this morning so I'll check te spark while I'm working on it this morning.

One last try

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You are posting pictures of all kinds of things.

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Post a picture of the adjustable collar on the rod that goes from the carbuetor to the towershaft.--Where is this collar at idle ???

Professor.... I really appretiate your help with this. I'm just not motor suave so I'm trying to figure out what exactly you are looking for. On the carb, there is only one connection on it that goes anywhere. Which is the arm in this picture. It connects to the lever(s) at its upper right in the picture. From there, there are only two options, either back to the throttle connection, or to up above the flywheel, which is in the next picture here. These pictures are all with the throttle lever in the idle position.
If this still isnt what you are looking for can you give me an example so I know what it looks like?
And I checked the spark. It will jump 1/4 inch gap.

Upper rod

Upper rod.
Other than this, all the other rods can be seen in the other pictures that i posted in the thread.

You have now posted a picture of the interlock

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It is designed to prevent you from pulling it over with too much throttle applied.

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It is NOT at the back of the rod going to the towershaft.----Sorry, I do not think I can help any further here.

Well...... Thanks for your help anyways. Really wish we could have been successful with this. Can you post a picture of where the towershaft is located? I tried posting a picture of all the items coming from the carb, but apparently I have still missed it.

You need to open up that low speed needle more - like maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn, or so.

I remember a fellow ho had this same engine problem some months ago. If you look at the top of this forum you will see a "search" box. By typing in key words like "Carb problem" or "broken starter" you can find tons of information that may answer your question. I used that search feature to provide you with this link for the discussion I recalled from some time ago.

www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/home/j-e-g-o-s-place/ski-twin-40hp-running-issues#77729