TOPIC: It Runs, Woo Hoo! Update Help

Ok, so this is what I've been up too lately. Slow and steady wins the race I guess. Anyway, Here it is with her new paint job and cleaned and rebuilt carbs and fuel pump. I'm still working on the cover. I have to wet sand it down again, shoot another coat or two, then shoot the white. Pictures soon for that part. In the mean time heres' a few shots with some questions.
This is the set up with what was left of the dash that the motors came from.


So the '62 "80 hp" runs but I'm still a bit puzzled.
I didn't see any water coming out this hole which it did on the old Fatty, shouldn't it?

I did see some water coming out of this hole when the tank was emptied.

I'm also confused with this very small hole near the bolt. Is it supposed to be there?

The water looked much different than the Fatty also. This looked more like oil not gas/oil mixed. Is there something wrong in the lower unit? That grey goo was also coming out the small holes I showed above.

Any ideas or is this ok?

Bob

Bob,I'm confused with the bigger hole below the small hole in the 6th pic down.The small hole drains water/oil mix.Running in a barrel or excessive idling tends to make these old motors run rich.There is another weep hole in front of the water intake above the prop that will also discharge oil/water.Other than the above mentioned,looks pretty normal to me.jim

Jim,
That other hole your referring too also had water/oil coming from it also. I'm thinking someone added a hole. I'm thinking that real little hole right below the bolt head was drilled by someone, just not sure why. Also shouldn't there be water coming out of the hole in the extension housing? It does on the Fatty but didn't on this one.

The other question is, is that oil right that's in the water? When I run the Fatty it's actually blueish since that's the color of the oil that went in, but this stuff is gray. Is this because it's post combustion where the Fatty has more "bypass/unburned" compared to this one?

Sorry still but a rookie with these babies.

Bob

On the electrics I've had,the hole right below the bolt was factory.On the lower unit on the johnson I had to drill a hole in it so I put it lower to drain all the sludge out of the little pocket in front of the water pump. So I'm going to say lower hole on yours is non-factory,IMHO.From what I've read and heard I think your right on about the newer motors being a little cleaner. But one thing is for sure,these motors are still NASTY!

The hole drilled into the leg extension is a pressure equalizer. It's there to help the water pump when the boat is stationary. The water in your bucket must be over that hole for it to pump correctly. Just think how deep the engine will sit in the water when your boat is on the water and not moving. The only time that the water is below the anti ventilation plate is when the boat is on plane. At that time, the water is being rammed up the water intake, and the pump is hardly needed. Most people don't put enough water in the barrel when testing an engine.

As for the little holes,those are just "weep" holes to drain excess water and sludge from the leg. The only external spray should be from the exhaust relief port on the upper rear tower. Get the water level over that extension & then try it again.

As for the puke in the water, welcome to the dirty world of antique 2 cycle technology. Are you running 50:1?

Thanks Jim and Bruce. Yep I'm running 50:1. I know it gets dirty, I'm just not used to seeing a "fully burned", so to speak, oil in the water. The Fat Fifty just seems to like to pour some clean oil with it, hence surmising it doesn't burn as efficient as this '67 80hp.

As far as the barrel goes, the way the motor sits on this stand there's only 18" of room between the angled supports so I can barely get the garbage can in there let alon getting the lower unit in it since it's actually bigger than the can. Not as issue with the Fatty since it's lower is smaller. It does seem to be working ok though, the heads aren't getting real hot. Woould it be better to make a plate that has a garden hose adapter on it and screw it on inplace of the reverse screen intake plate to feed the water in that way?

Bob

Bob,

Absolutely on the side plate water feed! The inlet hole should be nearer the forward screw - that is where the fresh water passage is. The area with the screen is just a drain for the thermostat bypass. A simple aluminum scrap cut to fit - with a brass hose attachment works great. Hope to see this baby on the water soon!

Thanks Bruce, yeah me too!!!!!!!! Sprayed the white on the cover sides tonight but I think I'm going to have to polish the whole thing, not as good looking as I'd hoped. I'm getting very close now, just not looking forward to drilling 4 holes in the transom to mount this baby.

Bob

Bob,I have a factory made one.If you need some detailed measurements or closeup pics,let me know. Looks like it would be fairly easy to make.jim

Thanks Jim, if you could take a close up of the back side so I can see how they mounted it that would be GREAT!!!

Bob

Here ya go Bob.

Thanks Jim, your the best. I'll have to do some ad libbing I think.

Bob

Ok so I made my water inlet plate. Not too bad. A lot bigger hole than the old factory one that Jim and a few others have but this is the hose adapter I found at Lowe's so I figured I try it out. Works great and the heads never got past slightly warm!

Now for the questions again. Here's the video of it running after resetting the timing, cleaning the points and synchronizing the throttle assembly. The problem is it sounds like the timing still isn't right.



Here are a few pics of the timing marks I used per the Clymer manual that I could round up.
Timing mark by safety switch. Is this the right mark?

Here's the starting position in relation to the timing marks on the other side of the distributor. This actually where the rotor is at number one spark plug wire.

Also will this meter work for checking the rpm's without burning up the meter? It says it's electronics can handle any fluctuations. It has a 4/8 and a 6 cyl position.

Any thoughts folks?

Bob

Ok, went back to the drawing board and realigned the flywheel with it's timing mark on the case and tried to align the distributor notch with the line on the outer distributor housing with the throttle linkage at the idle position. Is this right?


It's sounds better but still seems slightly off? Did I do something wrong?

Bob

Bob,

It sounds great in the video. Timing these can be tricky - becuse the marks aren't always in the same place & some marks are very small. Your engine sounds the way a large 2 cycles usually sounds when not under a load. They will always sound raspy unless under a load. Drop it in the water - leave the boat tied to the trailer & back it into the lake with the prop well submerged - then load test it in forward gear and see how she does.

Thanks Bruce, will do. I have to shine up the bling from the cover and paint the red and gray on it then it should be ready. I'll keep you all posted.

Bob