TOPIC: Johnson Golden Meteor

Ok, my new winter/summer/winter/summer///// project is home and hanging on the back is a 19-- 100 HP Johnson Golden Meteor. Looks to be in great condition. Compression in all four is well over 120, maybe higher but I couldn't hold the gauge in the hole by myself. Wiring is soft and supple, the belt looks new and soft but there is one ground wire that got "moused". Last time the motor was run on a lake was 1997 and then the cylinders were fogged before layup. Needs some cleaning and freshing.
I need help on getting all the info on this puppy that you fellas can give me.
Cal
Are they any good? What year? any thing available?
Model #V4TL-13A
Serial # J2717470

www.old-omc.de has a decipher chart for year in the "Technical" area.

Andreas

It's a '67.... the only year with the pancake flywheel. That's a sweet engine.

The black box ignition module can fail. If it fails a replacement is costly. You can always put a points-type disto from an earlier engine on it. I like to run NGK B7HS plugs in these. Be sure the plug has the correct "reach" (the threaded area) as the heads on these use a longer plug than the earlier engines.


Do not tinker with the carburator unless it refuses to start. The gaskets and service parts for the inline 4 barrel are very expensive, if you can even find them. I believe the last price on a gasket kit was around $175.00. ....... These carbs seldom have problems if the fuel is kept clean. Most have problems from people messing with them.

Check for condition of hoses, replace if in question.

Drop lower unit and check the impeller. Pull the pump impeller off & check it for cracking. Bend the blades both directions at 90 degrees. If any signs of cracking, toss it out & install a new one. Drain the lower unit oil & check for any sign of water intrusion. This is an electric shift lower unit and you MUST use type "C" oil only. Do not use any other kind of oil in it.

If properly maintained, these are wonderful engines. Quiet. tons of torque, and surprisingly good on gas. Prop it to spin at 5,000rpm at top speed for the boat. At moderate cruising speeds of about 30 mph, this engine will burn less gasolie than a Merc inline 85hp.

Bruce, thanks for the tips. It did have a water circ problem when the sellers tested it so they shut it down right away. Impellers are the first thing I change as just a matter of drill whether the po says they are good or not. 15 year old gas in the onboard tank, you can smell the varnish so I'll flush that when I remove it. I was thinking of rebuilding the carbs but if they ain't broke don't fix 'em. They just need a good cleaning out to get the old stuff out of there.
Cal

Ditto on what Bruce said about the lower unit on these motors. Make sure it has the correct oil in it before you spin the motor.Make sure the solonoids are working right. They are next to impossible to find new nowadays.They are great motors and look relly nice on an older boat. Skip.

Can someone point out to me where the knife connections are for the lower unit shift so I can disconnect them and attach a string before I even unbolt the lower.
Cal

Cal,the wires are located on the back of my 75hp between the cylinder banks above the thermostat housing. yours should be similar.jim

Jim, thanks, I found it hidden behind one of the rubber cooling hoses. Had to remove the hose to get at the wires and of course I trashed the rubber hose and dropped the hose clamp down the cowling. Now I have to replace the cooling hose, remove the lower cowel to get the clamp out.
Anyhoo I searched and googled the procedure for changing the water impeller on this puppy and could not find anything so I started taking pictures of the process to help anyone else out. I have to pick up a new impeller tomorrow and then I will post the pics on how to take the lower off, change the impeller and reasemble etc. The impeller had a pretty good set to it so I can see why it wouldn't cool. Tomorrow I'll also jam a garden hose up the inlet pipe and flush the system, probably blow right out the rubber hose I trashed.

Here you can see the set of the impeller.

Cal,I've had to fish out quite a few pieces out of my motors lol.I've found that this is real handy for that.

Jim, I have one Zackly like that same color too. They do come in handy. I can't figure where the clamp is so I'd be fishing all evening without a bite. I'll pull the lower cowel, probably lots of screws and washers down there anyway.
I'll have to see if I can find another cooling hose somewhere, maybe when I get the impeller.
Cal

I scored on a new impeller today at the local Merc/omc dealer. $57.00!!!!!
They did not have a starboard cooling hose though. Any thoughts on how to get one of these or can one be fabricated. If so how can I bend the rubber hose without kinking it.
Cal

This might sound stupid for a method for bending a rubber hose; Like how you bend a exhaust pipe without a mandrel, they fill it with sand to keep the inside dimention. how about screw a bolt into one side of hose, fill with salt. Screw another bolt into other side to compact the salt, and use a heat gun on low to make plyable. then set by reducing temperature quickly......Just a off-hand spur of the moment thought

Ya know, that might be off the wall enough to work, no harm in trying.
Thanks,
Cal

When I replaced the hoses on the 115 Johnson, only the port side was still available NOS. I used 3/4" heater hose on the starboard side, did my best to cut it so that it wasn't kinked. After a couple of runs the hot water running through it kinda formed it out to look like it was made to go there! Just a thought Cal.....

Cal,

You are correct to remove the rear cover & see what sort of treasure is in there. It is rare to not find at least a few stray washers and screws.

As for the water bypass hose - take the hose to your local NAPA dealer. You have NAPA stores don't you?

Ask the clerk for the catalog of MOLDED heater hose illustrations. They have many pages of illustrations of molded hoses fitting all sorts of cars. Some of the hoses fit between the heater core and the heater valve body. Many have the perfect "S" jog in them that your engine needs. You will likely need to trim some length off the ends of the hose, but the size and profile after the trim job will be perfect. I have done this in the past, but can't find my list showing the correct part number. I remember that there were many that could be made to work, but that there was one that was perfect, just an inch of hose had to be cut from the ends.

Bruce, I removed the motor fromt the boat today. Rumaging through my old inventory I found a curved heater hose from my Sabre that was a perfect fit sans some trimming with the amazing Ginsu, got my finger also. I will pull the lower shaft cover sometime before I put the lower unit back on to look for hidden treasure.
The new impeller is installed without a hitch.
Thanks for the tip.
Yes there are several Napa's in my area.
Cal

Removed the lower coweling, found the usual mouse chewings, one 1/4" bolt, a fishing swivel terminal and the elusive hose clamp. Good opportunity for a clean up.

The dangling string is for rethreading the shift wires.