TOPIC: So is it bad when there's metal shavings? (pic)

This is what my thrust bearing looked like. Oil line was clogged and melted shut.

A new bearing and thrust washer have been ordered, but I'm wondering what I can do about the bearing surface on the drive shaft, it's pretty chewed up. Can it be machined? I guess I'll ask the machine shop about that.

Also found several bare spots in the shifter wire, hoping that's the source of my shifting problems.

Does the nut on lower end of the drive shaft take a 1 1/16" wrench? That's the size I don't have.

Is there a good way to clean the magnetic springs? They did their job but I they're about full,

Your best bet is to replace the driveshaft.

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I do not believe the nut is 1-1/16"

Off the top of my head, I think the nut was either 11/16 or 3/4.

If you can't find a replacement shaft, a good machine shop should be able to dress the upper face of the shaft. You would then need to add shims above the thrust washer to take up the slack...

The new shafts from BRP appear to be on the " let's clean out this old stuff list "

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a mere 180.00 for a new one. Beats paying for machine work / extra fitting time to shim the pinion gear / risking damage to gears because you do not know where the used gears are going to mesh.

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Have you checked the gears for abnormal wear since the pinion may have been riding in the wrong place ??????

The gears look good aside from a chipped tooth that looks like it happened some time ago.

Thanks for the link, I'll take a look. Still haven't been able to get the old drive shaft out.

Hey Wavetrain - it's none of my business, but, have you asked the Prof. what the cost would be for a replacement L/U? He mentioned in the previous thread that he has a stack of these available.

With the condition of the thrust bearing, I'm guessing that you'd be way better off replacing the entire thing. Those metal shavings have embedded in the gear faces' and the bearing cups are probably galled. The thrust bearing places the pinion gear in the correct position - and in your case, it probably was out of whack for a long time before it failed. That means that the gear faces were damaged as well. New bearings alone, are going to cost a pile of dough, and it might be putting money down the drain.

Think seriously about ditching it & putting on a fresh one.

Good Luck,

Bruce

The vertical drive shaft on my DU lower unit has a sleeve on it just below the water pump. That sleeve is the inner race for the roller bearing. The sleeve is not a serviceable component.

Needing it repaired, the question of its surface hardness came up & it was tested. I can't remember the value, but it was way hard on the Rockwell scale. Too hard to heat treat then machine to size. If you have any doubts, try filing on an old bearing race. Because it is an interferance fit with the shaft it needs to have just the correct tolerances both inside & out.

We instead chose to fabricate a sleeve, install it, have it chrome plated & then machined. Not as hard as the original, but significantly harder than the shaft itself. It has lasted for years. BTW, the sleeve is also the sealing surface, so any imperfections between the shaft & inner sleeve surface can potentially cause leakage.

I am too far away to help ( shipping / packaging etc , etc )

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The super good deals show up on CRAIGLIST / EBAY from time to time.

professor wrote:

The new shafts from BRP appear to be on the " let's clean out this old stuff list "

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a mere 180.00 for a new one...

Do you have a link? I can't seem to find it.

shop.evinrude.com

Sorry but I can't find it. The part number for my driveshaft is 380893. I can find a newer one for $150, but not mine.

shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=qfo13qudn7v650uof9iu8jr572&catalog_id=0&siteid=1

As usual there is confusion between short and long shaft.

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LOOK AGAIN it is available new but not for the $180.00.