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TOPIC: '54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor)

'54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #14648

A continuation of the "my civic duty fullfilled" thread. That tread is all about a scrap pile motor that is well and truely seized. Four weeks of PB Blaster in the cylnders and she's as tight as before. So now I am going to start some disassemply.

I want to pull the flywheel to take a look at the ignition components (I'm using an eight inch wheel puller). I've removed the pull start sprocket and of course the flywheel nut, and of course that F-Wheel is also stuck on as well. Is there anything that needs removing or losening to pull the flywheel?

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Re:'54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #14654

You should be using a harmonic balancer puller - using grade 8 bolts (1/4-20 thread) threaded into the three holes near the center of the flywheel. If you use a jaw puller you WILL break the flywheel.
- Scott

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Re:'54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #14661

Yeah - I was concerned about that and so did not put a hugh amount of torque on the puller.

The harmonic balancer puller... A pep-boys / Napa item?

Also saw your and agree with your comment on the other thread on a stuck motor. This motor is so complete, I feel it's worth the effort to save even if I have to source a new block for it. So no longer going to try and unstick it. Going to attempt a full rebuild. I'll roll it into the corner. Yet another "future" project.

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Re: '54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #14673

as said below use a puller like for pulling a streering wheel. Don't ever use a jaw puller unless you want to buy an new flywheel. Put some pressure on the puller as much as you can by hand. than take something to hold up on the flywheel the smack the top of the puller with a hammer and it should pop right off. Plus dont ever put any oil on the crank or the flwhewl. I you do a good chance of spining the flywheel when you start it.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

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Re: '54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #15204

Nothing like having the right tool - flywheel popped right off.

Anyway, cleary I'll need some new ignition parts...






Then there is the Eska. At least I think thats what it is. It's got spark, but doesn't wanna suck gas - every now and then I walk past it, fiddle with it, scoff, and continue on my way.

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Re:'54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #15252

yes it looks like you need one coil. They are easy to come by New or used.
Hey I have and Eska just likt yours. But haven't done anything with it yet.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

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Re:'54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #15253

  • DaveK
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I had a very similiar problem with a stuck '54 Fastwin. Luckily for me, the pistons were up and above the ports. After several weeks of penetrating oil, I made a spark plug into a grease zerk. Every couple days I would give the grease gun a pump. After about a week, she broke loose. I have been running this motor now for nearly 13yrs. with no problems at all. I did put in new coils, plugs and water pump impeller as soon as she broke free. You will love the motor.

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Re:'54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #15357

Looking forward to it - should be a fun project to bring it back to life.
Then I'll need a boat to put it on....

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Re:'54 fast twin flywheel removal (stuck motor) 13 years 6 months ago #15375

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That is one of the jokes at our house. The motor was cheap! The boat was cheaper, but you can't beleive the money I spent! LOL My Father in-law had a cabin and there were several old aluminum boats that had laid upside down on the shore for years. I had a choice to take for free, either the 12ft. '58 Starcraft or the 14ft. '60 Starcraft. Since the 14' weighed the same, that is what I took. The original seats were good enough for patterns, as well as the wood on the transom. Oar locks were broke and of course various other minor, but little maintence problems. Well, I washed the hull with the acid that truck drivers use to maintain their tankers. I searched for and found all new mahgoney for the seats, white oak for the transom, new oars and oar locks. Depending where the fasteners were used for, they are now either aluminum or stainless. Oh, yes, the boat looks great IMHO, but the free boat is now a $400 boat. :laugh:

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