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TOPIC: Is this a V4A-15E/ Johnson Super Sea-Horse 75?

Is this a V4A-15E/ Johnson Super Sea-Horse 75? 1 month 2 weeks ago #148763

I am looking at a 63' Glasspar Avalon project, doing research before deciding, and this appears to be the V4A-15E?
Parts appear are scarce but can be cobbled together on eBay using OEM part numbers and some current Sierra.
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Is this a V4A-15E/ Johnson Super Sea-Horse 75? 1 month 2 weeks ago #148766

Try here for parts: www.marineengine.com/
I think parts for that engine shouldn't be too hard to come by.
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Is this a V4A-15E/ Johnson Super Sea-Horse 75? 1 month 2 weeks ago #148767

  • ed-mc
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Are you trying to determine if it's the original engine? There's probably no way to tell that unless you had the original invoice for the boat.

As for V4 parts being hard to find, you've got a manual-shift engine with the Light Duty gearcase, there were only about a Jillion of those produced and probably the most common sort of parts kicking around for early-60's outboards!

Ebay is an excellent source for NLA parts and Marineengine.com is a great place for parts lookups and sales as well. They carrry OE parts and Sierra as well. You should be able to get any "consumable" (i.e. gaskets, seals, & O-rings) you need.

One thing to be aware about the 75hp models, they really suck the fuel down. I had a 75hp Evinrude V4 on a Larson-style G3 and it was using at least 9 gallons per hour at full throttle. They swizzle somewhat less fuel if you keep the throttle backed up to the "Economizer" setting where the spark advance is maxed out on the timing stop, but the carb butterflies are not fully opened yet. A lot of fuel goes out the bottom of the downdraft 2-bbl carb and into the water, unburnt.

The 90hp and 100hp models had a 4-bbl carb and were getting these hp numbers with the same displacement block, that's how inefficient the 75hp is. But it's quite a workhorse.

Plan on replacing the magneto-style ign coil, any old coil will be shot by now and when they are failing, you'll have good spark when cold, and then lose spark once the engine is warmed. Mine was like that and after I installed a new coil, the engine purred.

If the boat's in good restorable condition, you can always repower with a 70hp JohnRude Triple. It'll be faster and use half the gas of the V4. Of course that engine won't look as classic!

Good Luck with the project!..............ed
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Is this a V4A-15E/ Johnson Super Sea-Horse 75? 1 month 2 weeks ago #148768

Doug Reeve wrote: Try here for parts: www.marineengine.com/
I think parts for that engine shouldn't be too hard to come by.



Yes, I saw some are available there. Was able to find NOS on eBay that were not available/discontinued.

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Is this a V4A-15E/ Johnson Super Sea-Horse 75? 1 month 2 weeks ago #148769

ed-mc wrote: Are you trying to determine if it's the original engine? There's probably no way to tell that unless you had the original invoice for the boat.

As for V4 parts being hard to find, you've got a manual-shift engine with the Light Duty gearcase, there were only about a Jillion of those produced and probably the most common sort of parts kicking around for early-60's outboards!

Ebay is an excellent source for NLA parts and Marineengine.com is a great place for parts lookups and sales as well. They carrry OE parts and Sierra as well. You should be able to get any "consumable" (i.e. gaskets, seals, & O-rings) you need.

One thing to be aware about the 75hp models, they really suck the fuel down. I had a 75hp Evinrude V4 on a Larson-style G3 and it was using at least 9 gallons per hour at full throttle. They swizzle somewhat less fuel if you keep the throttle backed up to the "Economizer" setting where the spark advance is maxed out on the timing stop, but the carb butterflies are not fully opened yet. A lot of fuel goes out the bottom of the downdraft 2-bbl carb and into the water, unburnt.

The 90hp and 100hp models had a 4-bbl carb and were getting these hp numbers with the same displacement block, that's how inefficient the 75hp is. But it's quite a workhorse.

Plan on replacing the magneto-style ign coil, any old coil will be shot by now and when they are failing, you'll have good spark when cold, and then lose spark once the engine is warmed. Mine was like that and after I installed a new coil, the engine purred.

If the boat's in good restorable condition, you can always repower with a 70hp JohnRude Triple. It'll be faster and use half the gas of the V4. Of course that engine won't look as classic!

Good Luck with the project!..............ed


Hi Ed, trying to determine which model V4 and if parts are available, doing some homework before I go look at it Saturday. I was guessing on the V4A-15E and assumed the E may denote the Electramatic which I read can be a nightmare as parts are scarce. The owner said it was running 7-8 years ago, they aged out, and it's sat in a sling on the dock since. I also read about their fuel consumption; I plan to have two-three tanks for use here on the TN river/Wheeler Lake.

I did see that MarineEngine carries what is available from Evinrude and Sierra, found the rest NOS on eBay as far as ignition, gaskets, lower seals etc

Are you able to tell from the one photo which model V4 it possibly is?

The plan is to go look at the boat Sat, inspect what I can, if it looks to be solid, I found a boat surveyor that will inspect it further if warranted for $400, boat is $500..... kinda a tough call but hate to get stuck with a $500 lawn ornament, rather pay the $400 and know what I am get into as far as the hull is concerned, hopefully I can make an assessment on my own, from the pics it looks like the floor is up, so that should make for an easier inspection. I know the transom/stringers are prone to rot, I will do my best to inspect that.

The other issue is no trailer, so I will need to find a trailer. Thanks for the response.

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Is this a V4A-15E/ Johnson Super Sea-Horse 75? 1 month 2 weeks ago #148773

  • ed-mc
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It's definitely a manual shift so you don't have to worry about that aspect of it. See the shift lever on the Starboard side of the engine? Not to say the manual-shift lower unit never has problems, but they are repairable and you can still get good internals for these off eBay. And any seal and O-ring you need.

If the floor's already up, then you can easily check the underlying structure.

Far as the transom goes, if it ain't cracked and if you put your foot on the lower back part of the engine and stand on it for leverage, you'll know by how much the transom flexes if you have a problem Also if there are any screws into the back of the transom, pull one out and if water flows out of the screwhole, that's not good! Or if anything but solid wood comes out, then you know moisture has infiltrated and rot follows.

With that simple of construction you could do a Seacast repair if the transom is marginal. Or strip for a full replacement, a fair amount more work. Typical old boat, Hole in the Water!!

Take a tape measure with you and you can check the centerline length. It'll certainly make a difference on what trailer you'll need.

Good Luck on Sat...........ed

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