TOPIC: adjusting shift linkage

I have a RDS-25 40hp. Start in neutral. (Shifting by moving the lever on motor to bypass the cable and such). Barely move it into reverse and it goes into gear. Back to neutral, then forward position. Does not engage prop unless I push really hard on lever. And then it does 'kick out of gear'. Maybe the linkage joint that you loosen to remove to service impeller slipped a little? The linkage at the handle it tight and shifts smooth, just does not engage forward. Any suggestions as to what to look at?

Had this problem many years ago with a 35 big twin. Does it stay in gear if you hold the lever forward?
The problem I slightly remember was in the lower gearcase with a worn part. It would stay in reverse but when on the water and shifted into forward it would pop out as soon as it was speeded up. The LU is easy to take apart and inspect, just don't lose any small parts. Most older marine dealers could still have NOS for these warhorses.

Sabre, thanks for your reply and that will be the next think I check. I wanted to get her to the lake one more time, and it is getting colder. Just for giggles I pulled the cover off the linkage coupling. And there were scratches below the coupling like it had slipped? I also noticed that shifting to fwd raises the rod. Si this might have made the rod 1/4 in long. I loosened the coupler and shifted into rev and the lower rod went into the coupler to the marks...... I hope that was it, try it out in the morning. If not I'll pull the lower, and do the impeller at the same time. BTW should there be a gasket on that cover plate, like in the marineengine.com diagrams. Guess I'll be making a gasket too. Thanks for your insight.

If you're talking about part number 52, yes there must be a gasket. That has to be water tight.
Glad you found the problem. Most are not that easy

Cool sounds like you found the problem. Hope the run went well. Yes as Cal said you do need the gasket.. Not hard to make though.

Bob

Still in the test barrel. The gasket for the plate I was referring to is #74 on Lower Unit drawing. Which has none. When I was resetting the rod position behind #49 plate Lower Unit drawing the lower bolt is missing as well as the gasket. The plate was swung up and top bolt tightened. Explains why I had a thick milky oil coming out the #74 plate which does not have a gasket shown on drawing. This oil is the unburned oil from combustion?

Just a update. The adjustment did not help. It is in the gearcase. End of season for me. I'll be pulling it apart when I get time. Well I needed to build front and rear bench seats this winter anyway, get rid of the new swivels.

That is a very easy and simple gearcase, nothing complicated at all, even I can do it

Parts are readily available for these old warhorses, even some of them on ebay if you can't find a OEM from an established marine dealer.
Good luck.
Cal

after you get it apart. and see what your going to need.. i have a 58 35hp super quiet im going to be stripping down and parting out over the winter..

Thanks Vintage I will keep that in mind. Sabre which part should I be checking on that would cause it to not go into fwd and kicking out when it does?

It's been about 20 years since I had one of those apart but if my poor memory serves me it might be parts #48 and 49, They wear and get sloppy. Once you have it apart you will see if there is slop in the shifter

Someone please correct me if this info is wrong.

I believe the part you need to inspect is #53 (clutch dog). This part will have tabs sticking out that engage with tabs sticking in on parts #41 & #42 (forward & reverse gears). A very little rounding of the corner on the clutch tabs will cause the problems you describe.

On some of these older motors the clutch dog can be turned around so the like new corner will contact with the gear tab. Now the rounded tab is used only for slow low rpm reverse.

This wear of the clutch dog is mostly caused by people slowly engaging the shift from neutral to forward rather that snapping in as suggested by manufactures.

Hope this helps, Gene

Thank you Gene, I knew I was close but that only is true in horseshoes

Well, I will accept help whenever it is accepted. THX both of you. A little off the subject; I took the prop off and decided to measure it (as I never have) Came out to be a 10 3/8 X 13. (Need to get a tiny tach to see if I'm attaining 4500rpm.) Been messing with the formulas to calculate theoretical top speed. Does anyone know the gear ratio of a RDS-25D. Would mark the flywheel and rotate prop to calculate but I am Forward gear challenged right now. THX again for the inputs