TOPIC: 1968 6hp help

Hello I'm Andy and I'm here from the dark side of mercury outpost. I'm working on a buddy's 1968 6hp evinrude or so I think. The two numbers on the data plate are 6802R and E10197. So to the point the motor is starting fine and when it get warm it dies. I was told a cork in the carb can cause this and it looks a little ratty and dry in there. So I am planning on a carb kit.(correct me if that seems wrong) so on I boats I looked up the carb kit and there is a little confusion there where I need some help. It has 6hp 1954-1979 pn 18-7043 and a 6hp 1968 pn 18-7024 once again correct me if I'm way off. What's the correct pn for a rebuild kit?!?I attaché the information from iboats. I don't think I coul be much more specific but if you need clarification I will see what I can do.

www.iboats.com/Evinrude-Carburetor-Kits/dm/cart_id.206515230--session_id.633958694--view_id.269096



Ps mercs rule!!

Howdy, 6802R is a 1968 model. Here's a carb diagram:

www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=6&model=6802R&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Carburetor+And+Starter+Group

Here's a link to the reasonably-priced carb repair kit, which should be more than enough parts to refurb the carb:

www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=383052&x=12&y=7

When you tear the carb apart, if you find that the float is made of cork, be sure to get the 0439071 OEM kit, which has a fuel-resistant float.

If the float is already plastic, the Sierra aftermarket kit is cheaper 'cause it doesn't include a float.

Note that there may be more gaskets etc than what you need in the kit, that's cause it's more economical for the mfr to supply a kit that covers more than one model, than it is to have to stock a whole bunch of kits for each model.

BTW, be sure you're adjusting the idle mixture needle for best idle; once the engine warms up, if the idle mixture is set too rich (or too lean), it won't idle well.

Condition of the points and rest of the ign system can affect running quality, so if the carb work doesn't solve the problem, you'll probably want to pop the flywheel & clean/gap the points.

HTH.........ed

Thank you for a very helpfull answer. It does have to old cork float which immediately made me think it needed to be replaced! I'm so used to the mercs I can figure out the basics to these things but there's always little quirks that are a little off! I will keep you posted on the results of a rebuilt carb. any tips on adjusting it or a good starting point?

Seymour wrote:

any tips on adjusting it or a good starting point?

If you turn the idle needle CW until it lightly seats and then turn it out about 1-3/4 turns, it'll be a good place to start.....ed

So after rebuilding the carb the motor would not start turns out the float that came in my kit was to big and starved the thing of fuel so I used te old cork float and dialed in the idle jet and it's a smooth running beauty now. The impeller was not workig due to a melted piece of plastic but I have that fixed and it is a beauty now. But... Why is there a pin going through the shaft near the top???

pin going through what shaft? where? i know my 5 1/2 hp had a pin going through the drive shaft under the powerhead.. it held up a series of washers and seals to seal up the bottom crank bearing of the powerhead..if thats what your talking about???

www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1968/CD-25A/GEARCASE%20GROUP/parts.html

Ok does that normally come down with the drive shaft when removed or not because I saw no parts and that is the pin I am referring too.

could all be stuck up there .. but i wouldnt count on it... if its not there... i'd be wondering if its been apart before and missing in action??? on my 5 1/2 the spring rusted and broke... i picked up everything in one shot cheap on ebay..

On the 6hp, there is a casting up top of the exhaust housing that captures the carbon seal/spring assy so it doesn't fall down.

There is a slot in that casting which provides clearance for the driveshaft roll pin to come thru when pulling the lower unit.

Sounds like a stroke of luck, 'cause if you don't have the driveshaft aligned with the slot, the lower unit won't come down. Or more often, it'll get forced down and the roll pin will shear.

Same thing going back up, except that the natural tendency would be to turn the shaft until it aligns. In this case, the roll pin aligns with the slot, then the driveshaft is allowed to go further into the crankshaft splines.

Hope that little explanation helps........ed

well that would explain alot... but does sound like a pain...LOL
i know on my 1960 5 1/2 you have to pull the powerhead to drop the lower unit..no way to unhook shifter linkage wihout removing powerhead..

The shifter linkage on mine was very strange compared to the mercurys I had to shove a so ket in there to get it detached kinda nice compared to some of the long shift shafts but kinda a pain too. Other then the shift shaft it came out real smooth. It is not my motor and was more of a favor to a guy at work then anything. He is on a tight budget and a tighter time schedule he's moving to the other side of the country Wednesday so the temp repair to clear the blocks me from the impeller housing will have too do. Got it running real smooth with the carb kit (minus float) and now idles down nice and no longer stalls when warm. I have never had anything against OMC's before until now!! There really just different ways to achieve the same thing and each one did there own screwy things along the way. Well screwy compared to the other one. It was a good experience though even if I will still spend most of my time on the dark side!

nice i spent a day without a book trying to figure out how to drop my lower unit on a 1960 5.5.... only to look it up and find out there was no way without pulling powerhead..my shift rod goes all the way up to the shifter arm under the powerhead.

Yup, as I recall, all the 5.5's are like that; at least they sorta fixed the issue on the 6hp models!

I would sell it if I had a motor like that!! Thanks for you help on this motor!!