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TOPIC: New To Glassics
Re:New To Glassics 14 years 3 weeks ago #46548
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Craig,
Can you post a shot of the port side of the motor. |
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BillR
FG member/advertiser since 1998 www.bearcat55.com www.homelite55.com www.robertsmaritimesystems.com |
Re:New To Glassics 14 years 3 weeks ago #46595
Here's the port side of the motor. This picture was taken about three weeks ago. The power head was pulled. I did a compression check, and all of the cylinders are at 180 psi. The first pump was 70 psi. I can't remember what the percentage the first pump should be. I know that all the cylinders shoul be 5% of each other. #4 cyl is barely under 180 like 179+, but I think that's just the guage. The cylinders had oil in them, so, I flushed them out with brake cleaner, it absorbs oil better. Then I blew out the cyl's with an air nozzle. I did this several times. This confirms that the motor wasn't used much and had been sitting a long time. Time to put this motor back together and go fishing?  |
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Re:New To Glassics 14 years 3 weeks ago #46603
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180 is excellent.
Per the service manual, check and set all valve clearances immediately, change all fluids, check and replace as necessary points/condenser/rotor/cap, set timing, check fuel filter. fill carbs with primer bulb, check that acc pump sprays fine, floats aren't sticking. Fire it up. Set idle mixture and idle speed, make sure you have a tach rigged then check to see she has the correct propeller. |
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BillR
FG member/advertiser since 1998 www.bearcat55.com www.homelite55.com www.robertsmaritimesystems.com |
Re:New To Glassics 14 years 2 weeks ago #46726
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I came across this today.
Not the first broken motor mount I've seen The front one looks O.K. I'll replace both side mounts. On the inside of the oil resevoir case, after I removed the exhaust tube there is some type of fire retardant fabric, I think that's what it is. Anybody know where I can get some more of this? Later dudes!  |
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Re:New To Glassics 14 years 2 weeks ago #46735
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need pics not sure what you are referring to.
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BillR
FG member/advertiser since 1998 www.bearcat55.com www.homelite55.com www.robertsmaritimesystems.com |
Re:New To Glassics 14 years 2 weeks ago #47129
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I came acrosss this and I'm wondering what this small square area is in the back of the oil resevoir. The allen head bolts were sheared off.
The area is to the left of the hole. |
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Re:New To Glassics 14 years 2 weeks ago #47135
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That is where part 40 the lower thrust mount is attached using part 4 and 41 on page 8 of your Illustrated Parts List.
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BillR
FG member/advertiser since 1998 www.bearcat55.com www.homelite55.com www.robertsmaritimesystems.com |
Re:New To Glassics 14 years 1 week ago #47398
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Here's where I'm at today. Everything is at bare metal. This engine must have sat in the water for a very long time. The lower prop housing is very pitted. A friend of mine owns an auto paint store. He said to use All Metal. It's an epoxy 2 part mix that fills in where metal has decayed. They have it for aluminum, cast iron, and steel. There are also some scrapes in the motor mount pan, but nothing serious. I found a good place where I can get below water high build epoxy primer. Nice. It's hard work, but, I love it.
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Re:New To Glassics 14 years 1 week ago #47677
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I went to Cerritos College today to finally sign up for a class. I will be taking Welding. Trailers are expensive. So, I've decided to make my own trailer. The metal is relatively cheap and I can design it however I like. There's not much room in my garage so I can store it on the side of the wall and when the boat is finished I can attach the wheels and then take off! I'm going to get the trailer parts from Trailer Parts.com. I won't start class until January. When I do I'll keep the pictures coming.
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Re:New To Glassics 14 years 6 days ago #47943
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The bearcat 55 is ready for paint. Everthing is down to bare metal.
What can I use as a good aluminum primer that I can readily get in L.A. area. Here's my problem. Everytime I find it on the web, like iboats, they want a fortune for shipping. The only place I know of that has good paint is Proline. the're in San Diego. I've already got a lead on zinc chromate that's local. Seahawk Tuff Stuff is the best. It's designed for outboards. But, it has to be shipped from Florida. It's expensive. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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Re:New To Glassics 14 years 5 days ago #48046
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Never mind. I found some.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 11 months ago #48659
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Here are the new photos of the '66 Bearcat 55. The zinc primer went on well. I bought the high build, proline primer. 1 qt. kit was $65.00. I ordered a manual from Bill and after it gets here I will start to order parts and start to assemble.
This is the motor pan. It came out nice. 
Here is the pan and the oil sump unit. Tomorrow I'll do the gear housing. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 11 months ago #50851
As you can see from the photo, the right side adjustment "tab" is still on while the one on the left seems to have been cut off. An angle bracket has been put on really sloppy and didn't even line up with the tilt latch. I'm going to have to take this to a friend of mine who welds and have him weld a piece on and the thread it. Or, I'm thinking a 3" bar of Al. 5/8" thick same width, and thread a hole that will line up like the other side.  |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 9 months ago #55018
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I've started working in my garage again, on my outboard. I ran into some problems with the mounting plate. One of the set screws was frozen. I drilled it out and will put in a plug. After that, I will drill a new hole and tap. There's still a lot of paint removal to do. Good news. I passed my welding test for 6013 and 7018. Monday, We are going on the oxyacetylene torch cutting. I have my own welder, an ac/dc "Buzz Box". I then will start my trailer. I'm gonna keep the wheels off and store it flat, there's not much room in my garage. I'll keep you posted. P.S. Welding is HARD!
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 8 months ago #55144
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On Saturday, I was able to finish the repair on the mounting plate. All if my part are going to be zinc chromated. At this point, I may stop and begin my trailer.
You can see down where the pin is holding the tension spring assembly. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 8 months ago #55613
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craig just getting in town, call me tonight around 9 if you can.
i have your stuff have to get weighed and shipping quote. flying out to africa again it appears. |
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BillR
FG member/advertiser since 1998 www.bearcat55.com www.homelite55.com www.robertsmaritimesystems.com |
Re:New To Glassics 13 years 8 months ago #55670
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Hey, Bill. Thanks for contacting me. No hurry on the parts. You can pick up where you left off when you get back. We've had a death in the family. Kinda of busy around here. We've had to sell his house, find a home for his dogs, destroy documents, etc. To bring you up to date, I've passed all my welding tests and torch cutting. I can get my steel at 50% off since I'm a student. And since my welder is fixed, I can now start my trailer. Anyway, take care and I'll talk to you when you get back.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 8 months ago #55990
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I've started to repair the pivot plate.
I have no idea why someone would hack off the support tab and not make a professional attempt to repair it. The two holes adjacent to the damage, was to hold an angle iron with a hole in it as a substitute hole. The engine didn't turn level and wore a gouge in the motor pan which since then, has been repaired. My machine doesn't weld aluminum, but, my welding teacher is willing to help. He's a great guy. I don't what reason someone would do this, but, it says alot about a person who would attach steel to aluminum. Anyway, after this, it's on to epoxy priming. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 8 months ago #56169
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I finally got a tip where I could get some aliminum. I made a small tab wich I will weld when I get back to school on Wednasday.
Here you can see where it lines up perfectly. The threaded hole is very close to the surface. After it's welded, I'll shape and buff it to look close like the other side. Then it's on to zinc chromate, prime then paint. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 8 months ago #56451
I finally welded the tab on the transome support. Then shaped it with a file. I didn't file the weldments too much, 'cause it would weaken the joint. I'm gonna add some liquid steel and smooth out the roughness. Finally, I can now move on. Prime, paint and re-assemble. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57147
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As you can see, I'm getting ready to paint this bad boy. Zinc chromate, Proline above and below the waterline primer, then finish. Big question. Proline thinner (reducer) charges an arm and leg for their products. I searched the internet for a generic thinner and an individual who deals with epoxy two part paints says you can use xylene. He says you can also mix 4 parts xylene and 1 part acetone. They also make a mixture, ABCD, Of various chemicals. But, he says xylene is the best. A quart is $25.00 for Proline and $9.00 for generic xylene. Anybody have experience with this?
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57196
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I wanted to post an update. After I fixed the transome mount, I fixed one of the motor mounts after I found out that the motor mounts are $70!
You can see I left the top plate intact. It has a slot that protrudes up that fits in the mounting yoke. 
Here, you can see the 3/8" x 16 flat head bolt that protrudes all the way thru the mount. Basically, there are two rubber pads that are sandwiched between three washers. The bolt fits tight to the rubbers for some flex. It's countersunk on the bottom. I may have to do that to the other side as well. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57380
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I just bought some parts from Bill, and I can hardly wait to continue work on my outboard. I will now have what is necessary to re-assemble my outboard. I still need alot more parts.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57390
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Craig,
Long day. Have your order boxed, ships tomorrow. By the way you are getting new yoke, cup, and weed guard as I had them new never used off the shelf. Not bad huh.... |
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BillR
FG member/advertiser since 1998 www.bearcat55.com www.homelite55.com www.robertsmaritimesystems.com |
Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57391
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Bill, you're the best. I can hardly wait to re-assemble this outboard. By the way, I've already started to make out my next list of parts I need. Better tell everyone about the carb kits. They better order soon or they will miss out. These carb kits are not easy to find. Thanks again, Bill.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57438
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I checked my sanding with some left over self etching primer,(SEP)on that transom support I was working on. When I sprayed with zinc chromate,(ZC), I waited until it was dry and washed it down with laquer thinner. The ZC literally fell off, but, the SEP held fast. Turns out, ZC is not self etching. I called Rustoleum and they have a product that is self etching and corrosion resistant. The only thing that bothers me is the money I spent on ZC. Good thing I found out now. The laquer thinner had no effect whatsoever on the SEP. Since two part epoxy is xylene based, I will check to see if there is a reaction with the SEP. I'll post in a couple of days.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57550
As you can see, the transome support is painted with self etching primer which is also corrosion resistant. Also, my parts came in from Bill and I have to go pick them up. Nothing holding me back. I'll post photos as I proceed. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57648
As you can see, Bill sent the correct, (the one on the right) yoke. Not only does it fit, but, this one is correct because the side rubber boots that sit on the inside are for the one that have the bolt thru the center. The one on the left was the one that came with the motor. A little cleaner, wire wheel buffing, self etching primer, and looks like a new part. 
Here, you can see where the correct yoke butts up against the lower unit. I was going to spray epoxy primer this weekend, but, it's raining like cats and dogs. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #57653
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Yep, fits and and is correct for your specific application.
That self-etching primer application sounds like an excellent long term base for the topcoat. |
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BillR
FG member/advertiser since 1998 www.bearcat55.com www.homelite55.com www.robertsmaritimesystems.com |
Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #58040
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So, Mark, from Idaho calls me, and says he has arrived in Whittier and if I would like to pick up the Bearcat controls. Yeaaa! When I went there, the cables came with it! However, there was no key switch. I checked and I can get one from my auto parts store for about $15.00. It says "Homelite". Maybe it's a later one. I believe that Fischer-Pierce bought out the Bearcat name in 1967. However, This is the one that is exactly depicted in my manual. Not bad for 50 bucks?
My wife is getting seriously p.o.'d 'cause our daughter's 21st birthday is coming up in June and I'm spending too much on my boat. Maybe I should hold off awhile. Anyway, I have enough to keep me busy. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #58044
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CraigLam wrote:
What you'll most likely find with this switch is it will not have the push in feature to operate the choke. You will have to add another push button switch to operate the choke. When sourcing a switch with the choke feature you need to make sure it is for a battery type ignition that is a closed circut when in the "on" postion. Magneto type switches are more common but they are an open circut in the "on" position. |
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Dick Johnson
1989 16ft Sylvan '57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one) '58 Johnson 5.5 '72 Johnson 6.0 '61 Homelite '64 Johnson 18 '65 Homelite 55 '66 Homelite 55 '68 Bearcat 55 (3) '70 Bearcat 55 (2) '71 Bearcat 85 (Sold) |
Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #58051
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The local NAPA stores carry the correct "push-to-choke" switch in their marine section. They are a bit more expensive though, about double the standard type.
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Nick
1961 Uniflite 19' Express, Bearcat 55 powered 1975 Chris Craft 25' Tournament Fisherman, Twin 181 FL inboard |
Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #58055
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Thanks for the tip.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 7 months ago #58073
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I called my local NAPA store, and they didn't have one. I called a friend of mine at Minmar Marine and he had the two types you mentioned. One for the magnito type and one for the battery type. About 40 bucks. He explained the "push in" choke feature. I like it. On a warm start, you don't have to push in. Thanks for the help.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 6 months ago #58975
Remember I kept talking about my old '59 Merlin? I was looking thru some old photos, and I couldn't believe that I still had them. The boat is long gone. I had so many great memories with this boat. I just didn't have the time or money to fix it up. Probably should have kept it. After my Bearcat is finished, I would have had a boat to put it on! Oh well. |
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 6 months ago #59321
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I'm between a rock and a hard place! I bought some Proline epoxy paint, above and below the waterline primer. Their reducer is 40 bucks a quart! Xylene isn't made any more and I'm not sure acetone will work with 2 part epoxy. I'm spraying my bearcat parts so it has to be reduced. I tried using a maintenance thinner, and it came out bad. It came out fuzzy. The only good thing, I smoothed it out with 120 wet/dry and the paint stuck really good. Thinner is not made to "reduce" 2 part epoxy. I think Sherman Williams, the maker of Proline, chemically formulated their reducer only to work with their product. Anybody have experience with this or know of a generic reducer? Auto paint reducer wont work.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 6 months ago #59852
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Anyway, I found my spray guns hanging on the wall.
This is a paint pot I paid about a hundred dollars years ago when they were about 400. Needless to say, it was a great deal. 
I took all the paint off the valve cover, and polished it a little. It looked so good, I think I'll keep it like that. After I get my welder, I'm gonna make an engine stand to mount the motor so it will be easir to work on. 
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 6 months ago #59897
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CraigLam wrote:
Funny, I was thinking the same thing untill I bolted mine on! |
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Dick Johnson
1989 16ft Sylvan '57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one) '58 Johnson 5.5 '72 Johnson 6.0 '61 Homelite '64 Johnson 18 '65 Homelite 55 '66 Homelite 55 '68 Bearcat 55 (3) '70 Bearcat 55 (2) '71 Bearcat 85 (Sold) |
Re:New To Glassics 13 years 6 months ago #59918
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I had one of my weld tests today. The 7018 came out great. 6010 on pipe, not so great. Were not getting certified for pipe, just verticle up with 7108. The teacher just wanted us to get the experience. The 7018 groove weld, verticle up, is Monday. So, after school today, I went to Proline and finally picked up the thinner. Tomorrow, I will spray the primer on all the parts, then wait for about a week, then spray the finish. I've made the decision to spray the leg white, the yoke blue, the transom hooks and support blue, and the motor pan blue. Alot like the original. The engine I'll leave blue. Also, I'm gonna get rid of the electric fuel pump and use the mechanical one. I have to re-wire the motor anyway and put new supply hoses on. I'm going to leave the engine blue except for some of the accessories like the starter etc.Ill post photos tomorrow.
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Re:New To Glassics 13 years 6 months ago #59976
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Biggest problem I see with 6010 or 11 is people set the machine to hot and keyhole the weld. I've always ran mine colder than most that way I don't have to move much from the puddle and I can see where I've been so I can stack in the next "dime". At one time I ran that rod great.
Pretty sure looking at your engine it was at the same shop one of mine was at and my wiring was a mess also, wire nuts etc. I cleaned it all up too. Lifted mine off the bench yesterday and set it on the floor for the final outfitting of the alternator, flywheel and starter. The engine is all white but the manifolds I have setup are blue, all my white one's have issues. Might have to paint one white. I'm hoping, weather permiting to possibly lighting this off this weekend. |
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Dick Johnson
1989 16ft Sylvan '57 Evinrude 18 (finally found a decent one) '58 Johnson 5.5 '72 Johnson 6.0 '61 Homelite '64 Johnson 18 '65 Homelite 55 '66 Homelite 55 '68 Bearcat 55 (3) '70 Bearcat 55 (2) '71 Bearcat 85 (Sold) |
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