TOPIC: What Tool Do I Use?

If you read this forum regularly, you'll know I don't know a lot about working with fiberglass. I'm to the point of removing the transom wood. I'm doing it from the inside so I can preserve the outter "skin". I've cut through the transom interior glass down each side and across the bottom using a 4.5" cutting wheel. However, the arc of the wheel edge is such that I can't make the cuts connect at the corners without cutting into either the side or bottom. Can I use a cold chisel to score then crack through to the wood or is there some other tool I should use? If so, what's it called.

I've had my boat for about two years. I have the hull cleaned out except for the transom. When I get that done, I'll be ready to start reglassing the hull and installing the new stringers and flooring. I've attached some pics of the boat and my progress.

First of all Id like to say, WOW look at that ole evinrude! And Im 30 mi N of Indianapolis,(I see the MC) any way, I use every thing I own to get it all out. my 4.5" grinder with a sanding wheel with the 120 grit is my favorite, I see the splash well still on the transom, and the side boards, all this should be removed to get all the "wood" out. dont forget to mesure the with of the boat before you glass anything! a box cutter works to scribe if you want to knock out some peices.

Hi Dspeck,
I know exactly what you are dealing with. I redid my G3 last year. I used one of these flap sanding disks on my angle grinder:

www.eastwood.com/flap-disc-4-5-zirconia-40-grit.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&gclid=CNvwhP274K8CFagbQgodEUtFKw

They are available in most places and online, I just grabbed this link to show you what I suggest.

I used this to do all the heavy glass/wood grinding... works much better than the cutting wheels and they dont clog.

Dean

looks like I deleted all my last resto pics....oooops!

..DS.: Recently some of us have been enjoying the NEW Design called Plunge Cut OSCILLATING tool .. Cheapest ones around $17 at Harbor Freight seem to be the way to go . Can buy different shape blades..
There arre Dremel ,Kobalt brands for $80 , but harbor Freight is good at replacements if problem.... My friend Andrew posted a quite lengthly G-3 transom replacement project last fall .. If I read your post about the SIDE or sponson cuts.. It may be wise to take a look in the cavity & extend your new wood to that area as well. Glasspar did not do much to protect the top or Cap of the wood & lots of transoms soaked or rotted from the top down as the small al trim caps had nails in top... I am starting on a 59 G-3 myself & rivits drilled out now. I see a nice upgrade to put a piece of Polished Billet AL across the top cap when rebuilt , .........

. Do I see a flat front floor on your G-3 Is it a 59 or 60 year.? My serial # was on the ski hook disc Washer.

Split wrote:

..DS.: Recently some of us have been enjoying the NEW Design called Plunge Cut OSCILLATING tool .. Cheapest ones around $17 at Harbor Freight seem to be the way to go . Can buy different shape blades..
There arre Dremel ,Kobalt brands for $80 , but harbor Freight is good at replacements if problem.... My friend Andrew posted a quite lengthly G-3 transom replacement project last fall .. If I read your post about the SIDE or sponson cuts.. It may be wise to take a look in the cavity & extend your new wood to that area as well. Glasspar did not do much to protect the top or Cap of the wood & lots of transoms soaked or rotted from the top down as the small al trim caps had nails in top... I am starting on a 59 G-3 myself & rivits drilled out now. I see a nice upgrade to put a piece of Polished Billet AL across the top cap when rebuilt , .........

---

Larry, you mentioned that "piece of polished billet aluminum" across the top of the transom. I think I was the first one to do that. Here is a photo of our G-3 wih that modificaton:

I have been using one of these on my hull: www.cpotools.com/bosch-mx25ec-21-2-5-amp-multi-x-oscillating-tool-kit/bshnmx25ec-21,default,pd.html?start=2&cgid=bosch-multi-x

It's great! I can zip through fiberglass quickly, but with much more control/accuracy than with a cutting wheel. It's also been great for removing the construction adhesive that the previous owner put between the floor and stringers.

-Phillip

i agree with skip and phillip,a multi tool works great on most stuff,cutting,sanding,scraping,i wish i had one on the last boat i did,i use the cheap harbor freight model,i over used one for 2 years,and the nubs that hold the blade on came off,but like i said i really put it through alot,thank goddness todd gave me one the last time he was here,im using it on my room addition now,thats in NBR.i would love to have the bosch,a much better tool,but price is too much for me at the moment.john

Here's a more recent pictures with the splash well out and one that shows the cuts I've made in the transom. I really didn't want to get into the sponsons, but the fact that each one has a hex-bolt driven from the outside and smeared with big gobs of silicon caulk tells me I'd better. Thanks for the info.

My boat is a 1960 but I don't have the serial number. That's what the title says. The floor I removed was flat but it had been previously replaced. It looked like what I remember from my teen years when I skied behind one powered by a 45 HP Scott. I'm not having luck with pictures today, but I'll try to attach one showing the floor in place when I bought it.

I have used one of the Harbor Freight reciprocating cutter multi-tools too. But, the glass really tears up the saw teeth. The diamond edged disk works fairly well, but I still have the problem of not quite being able to join the transom cuts. I think what I'll do is cut the interior transom glass skin into strips and see if it will pry off the wood. If not, I'll just have to grind/sand it off. Thanks for the suggestions.