TOPIC: Transom - Curved or Flat?

Just looking at some other post photos and realized that some of the restorations appear to have a flat transom. The one on my '60 is curved and that's how I planned to make my new one. Any thoughts/opinions/information on the pros and cons of each approach would be appreciated.

A curved transom will be stronger. Not worrying about it being flat or curved will make it
easier to rebuild. The rear of the top deck and motor well may have to be modified if you don't
get the curve close to original. Starting with a thin sheet of plywood makes it easier to maintain the curve.
Just do it.

I saw on one of the post a few months back where they made the transom using 3/8 ply and made the temp plate then cut out how ever many layer they were going to make it. Then cut each piace in two at diffent places so it could be fit under to top dack. The clamped and braced each layer to match the curve. There were pix to see how then did it.
If somebody know were that post is at it would help.
Mike aka the pirate

Keep it original - curved. It was designed this way for several reasons, if not just for good looks and appearance.
It will be stronger than if flat, looks MUCH better and is easier in the long run (as J.C. pointed out) as you don't have the chore of modifying the deck to fit.

I have both, and each time I look at the flat transom G3 I almost tremble with disappointment, and dread the nasty job ahead to replace it with a proper curved transom.
Ken

Hey Pirate, is this the thread?

main forum, starting with post #46435 4 months ago

www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/2-main-forum/46435-glasspar-g-3-gets-a-new-transom.html

He did a real nice job on that boat, but I kept thinking, why build a skin first? eveyone seems to build a bit different and I learn from each one I watch. I simply build the skin after I build the transom, when raising the transom from 15" to 23"

I like the 2x4 system to clamp the new wood,although I worry I might squeese to much,

Ive seen several ways to keep the boat and or transom in the correct shape, and that is critical! see ugly peg missing her rubrail! It wouldnt fit because I didnt hold the correct shape when putting in the side boards. I bonded her together, on the good side of that mistake its a much tighter hull. When I get "air" It feels very stiff as in 1 piece,

I just did a G-3 transom a few months ago-

www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/2-main-forum/46435-glasspar-g-3-gets-a-new-transom.html

It should be curved- If you don't curve it, the deck and splashwell won't fit!

The transom is also 'raked' 11 degrees.

The measurements for the curve are on the thread as well.... You should be able to get it dead on.

-Andrew

Also, if its not curved, then you need to break the hull shell to make a flat surface fit where the curved transom is now... which doesnt seem like a great idea in terms of integrity.

Dean

Heres some before and after pics my transom is curved..

YOu should not break the outer skin of the boat. Keep the hull integrity!! when mine was replaced they just loosened the top and sides at the transom and removed all of the old wood and placed new wood inside of the fiberglass. It was built up with several layers of 1/4 or 3/8 ply to get to the correct thickness. Be sure to put a plug in the bottom of the vee to allow any water to escape and to offer air transfer.

I used 3/8", 5 layers thick... with the outer skin, its just about 2" thick.

I have attached a transom curve template posted by someone in the past.
Thom