DRB and Alaina, welcome aboard and very nice boat. Great job on the price Alaina! This is going to be a great project for the both of you. It always seems like we have nothing but time but it does slip away. Enjoy these times together and the project, it will be great. I can't wait to watch the progress. Again welocme aboard.
Thanks guys. We appreciate the welcome! Do you think Alaina should get her own ID or just log in under mine?
I will probably post more than her, especially once school starts again.
We are very new to boat restoration, so please feel free to guide us! She spent a few hours washing the scum off the boat, and it does look a lot better, actually!
I did call the DNR, and it is legal for a 14 yo to register a boat in her name!
Sending in the papers tomorrow.
Can't wait to get this into the shop!
If you are using the IMG code for a pix, you can post 5 or 6 all at once.
If you are uploading pix via the forum's software Select image file to attach you have to load 1 pix, post it, let the forum update the thread to include your post, then click edit & add another pix, up to 5times, but only 1 pix at a time.
I am amazed at how much water is in this boat. I have the trailer propped up to encourage drainage and have the boat covered. The concrete around the rear of the boat isn't just moist, it is puddled! It's been draining for a week!
After reading all of the posts on other's restorations, I know the foam can hold a lot of water. We plan to rip our the floor and replace the floor and stringers, and to refoam it.
On another note, the boat is rated at 65 hp. It has a 60 hp Evinrude on it now. I have a 75 HP Evinrude that appears to be the same size. Is it bad/wrong/stupid to use the bigger motor? The 75 is in really good shape. This 60 needs some love...
I'm all about horse power! LOL I don't recall the weight difference between the 60 and 75hp. That's really where the hp rating comes into affect. there are a few JohnnyRude exerts here and they can jump in but I think you may be ok with the 75. What year is the '75?
We are sticking with the 60 HP on her boat. We took it to my parent's farm yesterday for safekeeping until I finish my current project. Hopefully before the snow falls it will be back home with us and the work can begin. Alaina is thinking a version of Seafoam green on top, white on the bottom. We will be back and share pictures when we get started.
As usual, things are taking longer than expected to get my current project done. I am finally getting some serious forward movement with it, and my hope is to be done with it by the end of May. That will free up a LOT of shop space for Alaina's boat. In the meantime, she is chomping at the bit to get started on her project. I have to really focus on my project or it will never get done.
Alaina gets her learner's permit next week, and we are picking up her "new" truck this week, a 99 Tahoe that my boss bought new. Just turned 100K and is in really nice shape. He gave me a good deal on it, and I am going to have Alaina work on it to keep her occupied until I get the current project done. We will do all new brakes, lines, shocks, belts, etc.
Hopefully in the next few weeks we can pull the boat up from the farm and dig in.
Here's my question:
I would like to start with the trailer. I plan to make a cradle for the boat that we can keep it on while putting in new stringers, floor, and transom. She can work on the trailer outside. We plan to completely disassemble it, repaint it, new lights, etc. My concern is that it is a roller trailer. I wonder if she would have an easier time loading the boat if it was set up for bunks. I would like to add side rails to guide the boat on when she is out without me. So, should I convert the rollers to bunks? Advice?
It's personal preference Dave, but many of us believe that bunk trailers are preferable because they spread the weight load out over a larger area. I've converted a couple over from rollers to bunks, there are several threads in the trailer section (forum) on the subject.
That being said, I've seen a couple of roller set-ups that were quite nice, I believe Jim's G3 is sitting on one of the nicest.
Ok, so the boat is home and in the garage. I am STILL working on my other project, though I finally have made some serious momentum and hope to having it done soon. So now I get to juggle two projects at the same time
I want to be fully involved in the boat and motor work as Alaina will need a lot of guidance with that part of the work, but I think she can do most of the work on the trailer with less supervision. So, here's my initial plan. I am looking for guidance from all of you to make sure I have this right...
1. Build a stand for the outboard and get it off of the boat.
2. Build a cradle for the boat and get the boat off the trailer.
3. Inspect and then strip the trailer.
4. Disassemble the trailer.
5. Get an estimate on sandblasting and powdercoating the trailer and decide if we go that route or prime and paint it ourselves. Thoughts?
Reassemble the trailer and take it back to the barn for out of the way storage while we dig in to the boat.
The trailer is a combination of bunks and rollers. The bunks are kind of pathetic, and most of the weight is on the rollers, especially the front one. As Alaina is very new to boating, I want to redo the trailer to accomplish two things: better support the boat, and make loading easier.
I really like the trailer set up for most ski boats. They have really nice bunk systems that park that boat nearly perfectly every time. I would like to get that kind of effect here. So, my plan is to add substantial bunks along the center, removing the rollers. I will keep the outer bunks but beef them up to something that will actually support and distribute the load better. I will add some vertical guide bunks to keep her centered as she pulls the boat in.
My other wonder right now is at the bow. I always thought the bow eye was supposed to go UNDER the front roller or v stop so the boat could not move forward on the trailer in case of frontal impact while towing. If I move the winch down any lower I will be pulling the boat down too much as we winch it up along the trailer. Can I just add safety chains that would attach to the bow eye and the winch tower once it is up in its current position? Ideas?
Sounds like you have a good plan of attack there, keep us posted on your progress. Ideally the bow eye should be under the bow stop, but that just isn't always possible. Either way I think a safety chain to hold the bow down in case of collision are an excellent idea, I always install one if it isn't already in place.
I got an estimate on the trailer today to sandblast and powdercoat it for $300. One concern I have is that the is some pitting on the main beam that I would like to fill. I can use All Metal but I'd have to get it blasted, take it home to do the body work, and then back to get it powder coated. Should I just get it sandblasted, prime it, do the body work, and paint it?
$300 for blasting and powder coating isn't that far off from what we'd spent on paint, primer, etc, plus the time invested.
We appreciate the advice!
Today we got the stand for the motor built, and constructed the cradle for the stern of the boat. We will get the cradle for the bow done in the next couple of days. We will then get the boat off o the trailer.
Before proceeding with powder coating the trailer, Alaina needs to secure the color for the vinyl to match the paint and powder coating. We went to my upolsterer but he didn't have the color she wants. Seems we will be shopping online. Any recommendations?
Curse, if you see that couple again please get some pictures!
I'll check into Gary's for the vinyl.
I'm second guessing the power coating now after doing a lot of reading last night. Seems there are two camps for finishing the trailer, those that think PC is great and those that don't. I want a show quality finish, so paint may be our best option (still starting with sand blasting).
Have you done any research on por15 or similar equivalent products.
A lot of Car guys love the stuff for under carriage and frames for their cars. They say it is bullet proof. They also say not to get any of the paint in the lip of the lid, because if you put the lid back on the can while wet, you'll never get the lid off again when it cures.
The stuff isn't cheap.... but most say it's worth the price ?
Today Alaina and I drove about 45 minutes away to visit a nice guy who repairs/restores boats professionally. He was kind enough to take time from his day to look over her boat and answer our long list of questions.
A few things he said that surprised me.
First, he hates Seacast. Says it's crap and whatever we do, don't use it. Thoughts?
Second, he was surprised we were going to paint the boat, rather than gel coat it. He was adamant that we gel coat the floor and inside at least, as that is the only way to seal the floor, and paint will lift off the floor within a year.
Finally, what surprised me the most is the recommendation to take the deck off the boat before I do the floor and transom. I read so many times about the worry that if the deck was off when the floor and stringers were done that the hull might bow and the deck wouldn't fit. He didn't think that applied to a boat this size. If that is true, it would certainly be a lot easier to just take the top off and get to work.
I am also wondering your thoughts on keeping the boat on the trailer while we do the floor and stringers vs having it on the cradle we made.
We have the top and bottom separated now, and we plan to hoist the top up to the ceiling in the shop for safe keeping while we work on the hull. We will do the stringer, floor and transom, and flip the hull over and do the "body work". Wait until you see the rolling base we have for this project!!
Looks like you're making great progress now, keep up the good work!
In reference to your earlier post, a couple thoughts.....
I'm sure there may be times when seacast is a viable choice, but the tried and true method of wood with proper fiberglass reinforcement and sealing has always been the preferred method around here.
Gel coat usually wears and weathers longer than a paint job, and is what almost all boat mfg'rs. used in original construction. While the cost of materials is pretty similar, the labor involved to finish out the gel coat (along with the proper application technique) is what steers many toward paint instead. There are valid arguments on both sides of the discussion to be sure.
I recently restored (resto-mod really) a 15 footer while on the trailer and had very little trouble getting the cap back on. As long as the hull is braced up properly I don't think you'll have a problem getting her back together.
The above comments are my opinion, and there are likely others who may differ and have other/better ideas. Good luck and keep us posted on your project.
So help me think this through.
As we are restoring my daughter's 15 ft Steury runabout, I am shopping around for engines. It came with a 60hp Sportfour. The boat is rated for 70hp. I am chasing a 75hp Starflite, and today found an 85hp Evinrude with power trim/tilt. I have looked for a year for power trim/tilt to fit the Sportfour with no luck. So if going with a slightly newer Evinrude (hate to give up that cool style of the older ones) means she can have trim/tilt, maybe its worth it.
The question is: is 85hp too much for that boat? I know it's 15hp more than rated, but I am reading that that has more to do with weight than anything. We are putting in a new transom on her boat, still debating wood or SeaCast.
As I shop for these engines I am trying to find usable, complete boats. As we work on Alaina's boat I realize she doesn't have the experience docking and trailering a boat yet, and if I can pick up an old usable boat with the motor that will work on her boat she can use the old one for a month or two in Spring and learn the basics where it won't break her heart if/when she scratches it.
Good idea on the second boat she can "learn" on. Power tilt will be good, wish I had it. Makes it easier to beach if needed. The 85 will really make that 15' fly, not sure how fast you really want her going. The transom should be fine if your redoing it. just my thoughts.
re: 85HP Evinrude with PT&T - I'm a big fan of the OMC V4's, especially the cross-flow motors. Finding one in decent shape with PT&T is a win-win, and some folks have been successful with mounting the older "classic" style covers (hoods) on the more modern motors. (Food for thought?)
A fresh properly constructed transom (maybe even add a couple "knee braces") should support the motor fine. Teaching your daughter that just because you have the extra power doesn't mean you have to use it all the time would be a good idea. They get a lot better gas mileage at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle anyway!