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An often misunderstood concept in power boating, is figuring out how to select the correct propeller for a given boat & motor combination. Understanding the "theory" behind this process can take some of the difficulty, and mystery, out of the process.

2 primary factors are involved - available power & hull efficiency

In theory, a 12 pitch propeller will move through the water 12 inches for each complete revolution. That would be true in application if there was no slippage between the prop and the water. Of course that isn't the case, all propellers have slippage, some more than others - due to limitations of design and application.

Your engine could have been fitted with a 9,10,11 or 12 pitch prop. Selection from OMC was very limited back in the day. Which prop is the "right one?"

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The FiberGlassics® Wiki is a community project that is open to all registered users of Fiberglassics.  Guests and members can view articles, however "Editors" can create articles and documents to contribute to the project.

The project attempts to classify, describe and document the classic fiberglass boats of the 50's and 60's through the use of articles, links and relevant media.

All content is viewed by the community for accuracy and you are encouraged to contribute by submitting articles via the Contact Us form.  Once your article has been reviewed, it will be published and you can become an "Editor" if you wish to continue contributing.

 

 
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FiberGlassics® would like to thank Jamil Mehdi for this article.  This content is copyrighted, and cannot be reproduced in any form without written permission from the author.

Boat Refinishing

 

This tutorial covers the following Topics:

 

  • Restore or Refinish?

  • Polishing Gelcoat

  • Gelcoat Repair

  • Gelcoat vs. Paint

  • Painting a Boat

    • Previously Painted Boats

    • Preparation

    • The Finish

  • Bedding Hardware

  • After Care

 

This is the section everybody wants to read first. This section assumes the parts that make a boat a boat have all been structurally brought up to snuff. The transom is solid, the stringers bonded to the hull, the fiberglass repaired and any other structural element in question is back to, or better than, its original state.

If you have only given the other sections a cursory glance because, let's be honest, it's somewhat boring, I urge you to go back and read them again. No element of yacht refinishing is worth doing without first taking care of the foundation upon which they reside.


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