I thought this bracket went to the bonnet somewhere, like maybe the choke, but I don't believe it does. These pics show the choke bracket I took off my parts motor, and the cleaner, wider one with a angled end that does not have a hole in it. Any ideas what it is?
By the way, I do see where a cotter pin goes in the choke tube that fits into the bracket on the left here.
Now I have another bracket to clean, sand, clean and paint. Sheeesh.
Frank, I went through my parts manual diagrams and don't recognize that part on the right. The only thing it reminds me of is a spring detent for the upper shift rod cam, but I'm not sure how your motor is set up in that regard.
Any chance its just a miscellaneous bracket from your workbench that inadvertently got cleaned and painted, or are you certain it came from one of your two motors? Both 1963 100hp?
Almost looks like the bracket/guide clip up under the front cushions in the Starflite, locks the outer part of the cushion down as you slide it back. I've been racking my brain trying to help figure this one out, maybe part of the power t/t system he's installing???
I bet you're right Chris, it's a spring detent for that shift arm from the parts motor I tore apart. How it got in my little parts bin I have no idea. And where is the choke thing from my good motor? Makes no difference, already got two coats of self-etching primer on the one from the parts motor, will give it a couple coats of color and a couple coats of clear and call it a day!
Just taped off my control box to spray the control handles. They been in primer an awful long time. Got one coat on, will do one more a bit later, then take all the tape and newspaper off and clear coat the whole shebang. Red metallic box, silver metallic handles.
Got some wiring issues I need to hit the manual for. Looks like a small wire goes to the back of the rectifier, but I don't see anything.
Yes, both motors were '63 1000's. Weird the differences. One had 3 cylinder rings, the other two (now mine is a mix), rectifiers were different, flywheel notches different, starter posts a slight different width apart. I got a feeling one was early, like the '62's, while the other was the full '63. Who knows?
I can't wait to launch either my friend. June? (Which year?)
I was looking for a colorful motor. Wait till I get all the brackets on...
Soon as the weather cooperates, the Power Cat will go in the garage for a week or so of primer and finish coats, then back outside for the rest of the work. This all depends on my health of course. Speaking of which, my back is telling me to take a break, and I'm listening to it.
I can answer the bracket and Piston trivia for sure.
The rusty bracket is for the manual choke. One end will attach to the bottom of your choke pull knob with a screw. On the other end the choke rod from the carbs will slip through the hole. Once through you slip a washer onto the protruding rod then put a cotter pin in the cross hole. This bracket allows the electric choke to work with out pulling on the knob.
The second bracket is the adjustable piece on your trim and tilt to set the trim stop limit, it goes on the swivel bracket and actuates the button on the trim cylinder bracket bolted to the transom. Make sure this limit system is working or you risk trimming beyond the ears on the clamp bracket under power which could be CATASTOPHIC!!!!! The system is designed to trim so far with the trim button and stop. Then to tilt further you need to depress two buttons the center and the top button, to override the stop limit switch when trailering beaching or only proceeding at idle speed.
Pistons. The early 90 cu. in. 1000's and 850's and 900's had two ring pistons. The very early (62) 1000's had thicker rings than later versions.
Replacement pistons for these might be three ring style and used the same rings used in the later inlines with the same bore, like a 1150 or a 1500 even though nothing else is interchangeable.
There are then two variations of the three ring pistons which is the piston pin diameter. Later versions like late 60's 1000's had larger pin dia, three ring pistons. A large pin piston will need a matching rod to go with it, the crank ends would be the same.
The place to easily mix up is using the thinner two ring style rings on a piston machined for the thicker two ring rings. The thin rings will fit in the thicker groove but you may not notice on assembly.....DISASTER when motor is run.
Randy, thank you, now I remember where that mystery piece came from! I have a smaller piece too that goes with it. I have good pics from when I disassembled it. I'll put it all together in the a.m. The choke thingie has two coats of primer and will be painted maybe in the a.m.
I am trying to resurrect that limit switch. The wiring is old and all cracked, but I did the best I could with it. We'll just have to see if good enough does the trick. The wires are integral with the microswitch. I wonder if those microswitches (with wire attached) are still available?
When Dave Cummings helped me mix and match 2 and 3 ring pistons for my '63 1000, we used the same rings on whatever piston we used. We did not use pistons that the ring(s) were stuck on. The motor seems to run just fine.