This was a barn find in VA but it is not the Sunray possibly made in Salem, VA. An ACBS member has that one in storage.
I started this project as shown in the main forum, Coosa for transoms topic. Pictures are there regarding the prep, laminating and install of the first layer. I'll pick up below with the installation of the inner layer.
The transom core is Bluewater 26, I'll probably use Nautical 24 for the floor.
Pic #26 this is the interior layer. As shown in the Coosa for transoms topic, the first layer was able to slide up behind the motor well in one piece. The inner layer has to be sliced in 2 so that the top piece can go up and behind the well first and then the bottom will pop in place. Both are adhered to the inner layer with thickened epoxy. Here I am adding another layer of 1708 in the middle of the top piece so that it is really snug between the inner layer and motor well. A rubber mallet was used to tap it up.
Pic #27 both sections in place, clamped and bolted.
Pic #28 top exterior, clamp and squeeze
Pic #29 peanut butter with quarter chop mixed in and tabbed in all around
Pic #30 very solid. transom will be capped at this level to bring cavitation plate on engine up where it should be.
A little more work with the Coosa board:
Pic 32 - 8' of stringers peanut buttered in, then covered in 1708, might have been easier to laminate the 1708 prior to cutting the lengths then tabbing it in and over the top edge
Pic 33 - XPS extruded polystyrene layered in. Fairly easy to install in this section as its flat. Might need to use 2-part expanded foam after this 8' as the V gets more pronounced under front half. I'll shim some 1/2" in outside of the pink board prior to permanently installing the Coosa floor
Pic 34 - checking level chine to chine
Pic 35 - first piece of Coosa cut to fit
Pic 36 - second piece of Coosa cut to fit
I'll pull these out and laminate 1708 to the bottom before installing. So far the Coosa has been easy to work with. I take it outside to cut and wear a high end mask when cutting as it kicks up a lot of foam and glass dust.
The transom with Coosa core is getting capped with fiberglass channel.
The floor panels are removed and 1708 is adhere to both the bottom and top. Using the 12" wide cloth made it easy to work at a reasonable pace with the vinyl ester resin. coating the Coosa first, placing the pre-cut 1708, rolling out excess, top coating and rolling again. Then moved to the next section.
Pic 37 - Transom cap adhered
Pic 38 - Trying Total Boat 2-part epoxy fairing compound
Pic 39 - All previous mount holes and blemishes filled
Pic 40 - 1708 pre cut and applied
Pic 41 - both sides done
The Coosa board continues to be easy to work with. When coating with resin, you can see little dots where it is penetrating the foam. Then 1708 is rolled on, more resin, and a wide paddle roller used to flatten and squeeze out air bubbles and excess resin.
Pic 42 small bow section, tabbing was added while easy to roll out evenly all around as the space up front is tight.
Pic 43 wetting out the tab
Pic 44 gray epoxy primer rolled on while still easy to access and the middle support was replaced with a Coosa wrapped in glass version
Pic 45 ribs are added under the cockpit section that will get traffic and weight. Tabbed in and covered in glass.
First time using 2 part flotation foam. The guys at US composites were very helpful. I opted to pour into the open cavities rather than pour through holes cut in the sealed deck. Glad I did...pouring in smaller quantities, you can see the foam expand away from the sides like a cake mounding in the center. Seeing this, I could pour the next cup around the perimeter to fill the gaps along the stringer and ribs. Perhaps if I had mixed a larger quantity for a single pour it would have fully expanded out to and up the sides. Hard to say as the videos on line show guys pouring it through holes, usually in multiple pours and then it expands out through the pour hole. Might be a cool experiment to build a box with some clear sides to see whats going on in there during multiple pours in a cavity. Anyway this allowed me to fully fill the cavity. Then using the multi-tool and a level, I trimmed the top overflow. Last, some thickened resin was applied over the top cut "cells" to seal them.
Pic 46 - fill and trim first two cavities
Pic 47 - continue to pour into larger cavities
Pic 48 - top bubble over trimmed
Pic 49 - top coat of thickened resin
Pic 50 - last floor section is laminated with 1708 on both sides
The last floor section was installed. All sections peanut buttered and tabbed in.
Pic 51 - peanut butter mix of vinylester, cabosil, 1/4" chop strand
Pic 52 - old hotel key corners were cut with larger radius to pull a smooth fillet. nice make shift tool-
Pic 53 - tab wet in
Pic 54 - tab rolled floor to wall for smooth transition
Pic 55 - switched to epoxy at transom where epoxy was used to adhere new transom in hull. Epoxy over vinylester
Pic 56 - nice transition across the back floor to transom
Pic 57 - everything hit with the sander to knock down any drips and rough spots
Pic 58 - another shot facing transom
That's it, Coosa floor & transom are in and sealed all around-
I continued to blend in the new transom cap. A coat of primer and a little more faring compound. Drain tubes were installed and as I had not done this before, here are some pictures to help the next guy. I bought the flaring tool and borrowed a tube cutter.
Pic 60 - holes were first located using a smaller drill bit to ensure I hit the angle right. That way it was easy to adjust and the larger 1" spade bit ate up the extra little holes
Pic 61 - pushed tube through dry hole, hole required a little finish sanding to remove some 1708 fibers. tube marked 3/16 to 1/4" past hull. tube cutter made the slice easy
Pic 62 - flaring tool
Pic 63 - like giving your boat a physical......the inside of the hole was generously coated with 5200
Pic 64 - a little extra before the flare to ensure some squeeze out on this side
Pic 65 - a local club member suggested i put a couple of drop of oil on the side of the flaring tool radius, then tightened. I took it off and checked, then continued a little more. Did not want to split the flare. cleaned up the 5200 squeeze out
Pic 66 - I was a bit generous around the bottom one as the surface was a little rough where I tabbed the new floor to the new transom. It will get primed and probably shot with Zolatone
Pic 67 - exterior of transom ready to fare a little more and prime
I also started to hone in on the type of front seats that we'll use. The wife and I don't like the back to back style, she wants a bench of some type in the back- So I started building some front seat pedestals from Coosa, there was enough left over from my scraps. I'll post some pics when I have enough-
Getting started on the front seat construction. We are going to opt for something a little more comfortable then the back to back seats that were there. Some Custom Crafts had single type jump seats and and other varied layouts. We are going with single seats in the front with room for walk through and a bench style in the rear. After reviewing the single seats of the era, I dug up a pair of 65-67 mustang seat frames. These will be cleaned up, coated and new foam and upholstery kits are readily available for the hobbyist. Base boxes are constructed of Coosa and 1708.
Pic 100, 100.1 & 100.2 are a few of the inspiration collection
Pic 101 & 102 We are trying out different heights for the bases and spacing from the wheel & dash
Pic 103 Coosa boxes are constructed using leftover 1/2" pieces doubled up on the sides. 1708 is layered in and oriented so that the thread folds into the 90 nice and tight one way, then the other. net is one layer on the sides and two inside the top.
Pic 104 round over router bit is used on all exterior edges to give a nice eased edge and allow the glass to easily be applied
Pic 105 1708 is applied to the exterior. some chop strand was used around the corners as well
Pic 106 under seat storage access is cut in
Pic 107 a light scrape coat of faring compound
Pic 108 access opening is rounded and exterior sanded
Primer is next and I'm deciding whether to finish in Zolatone or an upholstered skin-
More progress on the front seat bases.
Pic 109 1708 is laminated and the Coosa cut for some cleats that will get epoxied to the floor and allow easy install & removal of seat as needed
Pic 110 gray 2-part primer on bases
Pic 111 the 4 seat frame mounts were able to be used once the sliders are discarded. 5/16" holes are drilled in base to align with the threads
Pic 112 & 113 positioning the base and marking floor where they will mount
Pic 114 bases are prepped with plastic & cleats. Cleats are mounted inside the bases. thickened epoxy is spread on the bottom edge of the cleat. the base is then flipped over, positioned where the floor was marked and some weight placed on top.
Pic 115 once epoxy cures, the seats are unbolted and set aside
Pic 116 a fillet of thickened epoxy is run around the base and a 1708 tab wet in on the inside edge
Pic 117 & 118 seats are checked bolted back in and ready to set aside until final finish is decided on
Eventually, nice stainless oval head bolts and finish washers will be used to secure them.
Next, I'll move on the the new rear bench seat-