TOPIC: Seeking advice on replacement trailer

Hi folks, looking for a little advice on getting a new trailer. So I have a 1959 Bellboy 404 express. 18.5' LOA, guesstimate around 2000 lbs as rigged. Pic in my avatar. It was fully rebuilt by the previous owner, a forum member, with a new transom, stringers tied back in, a new floor with foam blown in.
So the trailer is probably almost as old as the boat and is hurting. It's an old tilt trailer, possibly a Shoreland'r. It's painted steel and under the paint there's a fair amount of rust. Last time I used it my son pointed out a sag and sure enough the outer frame rail on the starboard side is bent and sagging behind the where the axle attaches. On inspection I can see the rail is rusted about 3/4 the way through. Needless to say I don't feel it's safe to haul this trailer anymore! I don't think it's worth fixing because there are other rusting spots. The boat is stored in my garage on the trailer so it gets hauled around a lot. I put it in salt water as well as fresh. I need a solid trailer that I don't have to worry about falling apart going down the highway.

So I'm thinking a new or recent galvanized steel trailer with good self lubricating hubs etc. I'm in Seattle and looking pretty hard a local brand, King trailers, but of course there's EZ loader, Karavan and others.

Here's my basic question:
Any modern bunk trailer has a y-shaped galvanized structure with a couple crossmembers and the boat is supported on two 8-10 ft bunks, there's nothing under the keel. Will this work fine for my old Bellboy? The old trailer it is currently on supports the boat with two bunks as well as several rollers under the keel. See pics.

Thanks for any comments or advice you may have.

My opinion. The trailer with 8 - 10 ft. bunks would work just fine. You can always add bolt on aftermarket center rollers if you don't think there's enough support. These are the type that would bolt to the cross members. I've used them before. When the boat is on the new trailer/bunks just crawl under and mount the bracket/rollers tight to the keel.
www.amazon.com/Boater-Sports-Roller-Bracket-Assembly/dp/B005NJ056M/ref=asc_df_B005NJ056M/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413741386072&psc=1

Thanks 63 Sabre. I'm assuming there isn't a problem doing this, but since my boat is so much older than the typical 18 ft runabout going on a new trailer, I want to make sure I'm not making a mistake. Yeah I could look at adding rollers to the crossmembers, but there are only two in comparison to the several on my current trailer. Also I'm assuming the the trailer might flex going over bumps and what not so not sure it's a good idea to put supports where they weren't designed to go. My old trailer has much more structure under the boat supporting the keel rollers.

Fit the longest and widest bunks you can. Be sure the bunks sit directly under a stringer, and not between them. You will have to guess on this unless you have knowledge of the stringer placement. Newer boats not such a big deal on this. But with an old boat like your Skagit it is critical. The old hulls were much thinner for weight savings. This allows flexing where you may not want it. The keel rollers should just touch the boat or not bear the weight of the hull. Do not under any circumstances put the boat on a roller only trailer.