Thank you for that amazing educational video. I have been following the Sea Cast threads... your video made this very clear. Now I can see there would be no wood to rot again. Also thanks for the further info on your decision on what method you chose for floatation. Right now I have jut drained over 50 gallons of water from the sub floor and still dripping... that is over 400 pounds of water. Can only imagine if there is any foam, it must be saturated...and floors and stringers must be rotting. My first clue is the moss and 2â tall weeds growing out of the old carpet. Now I have lots to ponder. Thanks again. I assume your method reduces fear of water standing in the hull if a person gets called away a few days with boat sitting out. Great Video and great work!!
Hi Dr. Go,
While I eliminated the sub floor drain, the main floor drain and the engine compartment drain will remain. Picture below. Once the woven roving was installed the height was perfect for the drain. If you send me your email in this thread or by PM, I will forward you the feedback I received from a contributor here on Fiberglassics regarding the foam and his test results while in the USCG.
Ok. So if I understand correctly, that new drain is higher (and now just above the new floor)...and the sub floor is basically sealed from water intrusion - correct? And even if water tried to find its way under there, there is basically no voids nor anything that would allow water absorption anyway - correct again? I will send you a PM and thanks again.
My Caribbean had 3 drains, see picture of original stern. 1-sub floor, 2-main floor & 3-engine compartment. I just eliminated the sub floor drain. The new floor is tabbed in with 2" and 4" chop strand tape and then woven roving. I do not plan to put any screws through the composite floor, rather use 4200 or 5200 to adhere components if needed. Time will tell, that might change. There will be some condensation in the sub floor air, that should me minimal. The bow and stern eyes are above the water line so no sub floor drips from those. My boat will probably not be in the water for more than 3-4 days at a clip at a show. At home we will use a lift or the trailer for daily use. The plastic was just more insurance as suggested by the gentleman that ran the tests for the USCG.
BTW, I had to remove the music from the video...I did purchase it but youtube did not agree to my appeal, another story. I can send a drop box link to "friends" that would like to have the original version. Just need your email address. I'm in VA; what State are you in?
If I may add, you can consider this if you want. I've replaced floors in several boats and some had a small hose/tube glassed into the very tip of the brow. Under way there is flexing of the hull and this acts as a bellows, if it is sealed tight the pressure will eventually crack the deck somewhere. A breather vent (tube) hidden out of sight in the front of the deck will eliminate this problem and also get some air in that area to help prevent moisture buildup.
Just in case you are caught off guard in a downpour on the trailer without a cover a small bilge pump mounted in the motor well will keep her dry. You can just hang a hose over the gunwale.
All good info. I am in Wisconsin. I have seen a few decided to glass in some pvc that was center cut long ways to create an arch that used the boat bottom as a water path so theirs could breath, but the has wood stringers put back in and used expanding foam that they shaved flat with a hot knife. I thought I read once where some boats had the internal sub floor drains inside into the back bilge area that had removable plugs. Would this mean you plugged them for a day of boating with wet swimmers and skiers coming about and possible rain storm... and then once the boat was on trailer you pull the back plug first to get top water out and then once empty, pull the inner plug and leave out when covered or indoors to allow for breathing and dripping of any possible condensation. Guess I do remember Mastercraft way back advertising that their stringers were glass and no more wood in their boats including rotocast plastic seat bases to ensure holding better resale value.
Restoration update, '62 - 14' Caribbean. Been working on it for 2 years on and off. Part 1 Video link above that was compiled last year and then the pictures skip to the current work on the bottom after the top was replaced and gel coat grinding was done. When I get time this fall, I'll pull together a Part 2 video . The restoration started in the garage, then last summer I built a new boat barn workshop. Started priming the bottom via roll & tip, then decided to try the harbor freight cheap turbine HVLP. Definitely a learning curve to thin the primer and dial in the gun. Hope to sand the last coat and start applying interlux perfection this weekend. BTW, there is a new Lake n Sea Facebook group started by Geoff Reynolds.