So I bought a 67 100s with a bad ignition CDI power pack.
So I decided to convert it to A MSD unit got excited and could not wait so I modified the perfectly good battery ignition on my 66100s powering my 1963 Starcraft Chieftain.
The MSD will fire a series of multiple sparks that lasts for 20° of crankshaft rotation when the engine is running under 3,000 and twice the power of the stock OMC CDI.
So far it starts quicker and idles better let you Know about the rest this weekend.
MSD 5520 Street Fire box (least expensive)
MSD 8830 Noise Capacitor (very important voltage spike suppressor)
MDS 8.5mm Super conductor bulk plug wire (stock plug wires are solid core) solid core wire is not recommended by MSD.
MSD 8222 High vibration coil
Used new OMC points and deleted the condenser.
Used surface gap plugs recommended for 1967-68
good job keeping the old gals running. I'm not sure what the MSD box cost, but it was probably less than what a NOS prestolite power pack would have cost you!
I converted one of my V4s over to a Pertronix system a couple years ago. I did it as an experiment, but the results were great. Instant starts, smooth idle, and less tendancy to "load up" at idle speeds. The nice thing about the Pertronix is that there are no breakers.
Be sure to let us know how this system works out for you.
Big problem triggering a MSD unit with points Problem #1 MSD is very finicky when using points any kind of oil or slight oxidation of the contact metal and the MSD will not fire consistently at low speeds.(I talked to the MDS tech line about this)
Problem #2 points produce a spark when they break or open when using points to trigger a MSD unit you produce spark when the points close-so your timing is all f upped.
I converted the engine back to points ignition (runs perfect) until I can find a good electronic trigger/pick up that will fit in the distributor housing the MSD will stay off.
I was afraid of that problem with the points. I did a lot of research before converting my Starflite to Pertronix. I can send instructions on how I did it. You must have access to a lathe to turn down the old breaker point cam. The magnet ring slips on at a pre determined position that is critical. The sensor gets mounted about .20" from the rotator ring. Run the wires to the coil & you are done. I used a 3 Ohm Blaster epoxy marine coil. This allowed me to eliminate the resistor (cloth) wire and use a standard wire for the coil. Engine goes like a scalded dog & idles perfectly. Instant starts too.