TOPIC: 1961 Lark III 40hp Starting Problem

Hi, Glassers,Rick here.I can't start my
lark after a short trip this weekend.Engine started
bogging down after fifteen minutes of running.
When put in nutral and a brief throdle up,it cleared
but the bogging returned then shut down after a few minutes and would
not restart.I started out the day with fresh gas
with 50/1 mix and staybil.Had gas leaking out of
butterfly on to transon on restart.I get some backfireing when I start the engine for the first time in the day.I use it only a few days a year.Am I doing damage to the motor?There is gas in the glass bowl.Please note I know very
little about these engins or their workings.I have
a Seloc manual but would love to here your opinion
and a possible trouble shoot.I am about to stsrt the clean up
of my Super SeaHorse 35 for the Lake&Sea so its time
for engine 101 training.

Thanks

Rick

Could be a fuel problem!
Is the vent open on the gas tank?
Is the primer bulb holding pressure?
Is the fuel filter cloged?
Just some basic things to cover.
Good Luck
Pete

Pete,vent is open,should the conection on quick connect at
the tank and squeese ball be snug.It never snugs tight.Could
air be getting in fuel line.Where would I look for fuel filter.
are these replacable or do you clean them. The length of fuel
hose seems very long from the engine to tank.Would shorter hose
help?

Thanks for the reply.

Rick

I think Pete (DelRay) is on the right track here Rick, but I'm thinking needle valve stuck open (trash or varnish build up) or float stuck down or leaking fuel in. From you describing the symptoms, and fuel dripping out the butterfly, it sounds like it's flooding out at idle. Was it smoking more than usual when it died out?

I know you started the day with fresh gas and Sta-Bil, but was it run dry last time or stored with Sta-Bil in the gas? (Even when you "run the gas out" before shutting down there's still some in the float bowl.) Have you checked the inside of the gas lines lately for deterioration?

My first thoughts would be to pull the carb and clean it, put a kit in it if you have one. Check (or replace) the needle valve, check the float to ensure it isn't absorbing or taking on gas. I'd also replace the gas lines if they haven't been done in a while. Gas today is wreaking havoc on old rubber not made to withstand the ethanol. (You may be lucky and not have to use the stuff, but the above mentioned problems could still exist.)

Standard or Marine Stabil? 2-strokes do not like regular Stabil, so they make a marine version. Others, including me, recommend Seafoam. Keeps fuel system clean, I have stored gas for a year that had Seafoam mixed in, noticed no difference in performance finishing that tank and immediately switching to a full tank of fresh gas mix.

Thanks to All,The Stabil was standard,I did run motor dry at the
end of season.Where can I get carb kit? The guy who towed me in
mentioned Seafoam also as the best with great results.I run motor
in a No Wake zone most of the Time.Not much over idle alot of the time.
do you have to have special tools to do this kit?

thanks

Rick

1 Check ebay for an OMC manual.
2 I buy my parts at either marineengine.com, my evinrude dealer, or ebay. In that order.
3 A good dealer is very valuable.
4 Running a lot in a no wake zone is likely not the best for the engine.
5 A good small kicker is a great thing if the transom is wide enough. Saved me a couple of times.
6 marineengine.com has a great J/E forum. Read it. Then post intelligent questions if necessary.
7 Get a compression tester and a spark tester. Both are cheap and necessary.
8 This J/E forum is good, just not the traffic that marineengine gets.