looking at a boat that has this motor on it. Has been in storage the past 5 years.
I'm not mechanical which probably qualifies me to not get ANY old boat. However, I like it so I'm trying to figure out how realistic it will be to use and maintain us motor as reliable. It looks pretty spotless has never been in salt water.
Carb rebuild kits aren't available, but I did see all the pieces of the carb rebuild kit are available online. Props look very difficult to come by. Each year from 66-68 seems to be a little different when it comes to some of the parts.
I just don't want to continually get stranded in the lake. Seller said he never had any problems and he owned it for the past 25 years.
That motor was the best of the early-design V4's. It has a heavy-duty electric shift lower unit, which as long as it's in good nick, and filled with the correct gear oil- Type "C" or the latest replacement, "Premium Lube", should work just fine.
The 4-barrel carb is quite complicated and it's not much fun to tear into. If they put the engine away properly, you may not have to do much to it. Probably a minor disassembly to get into the innards, and gaskets/consumables replacement, will put it back into good working order. I wouldn't bother buying jets, or other heavy metal parts, until you tore into it for inspection. Usually those parts only require a cleaning & reinstall.
This motor may have electronic ignition, which can be problematic. But never fear, if the $$$$$$ ign is shot, it can be easily retro-fitted to a much-more-reliable points distributor from an older V4. The key to that retro-fit is if the motor has a cogged belt drive for the distributor drive. If so, all you have to do is pull the electronic guts & mounting plate out of the distributor, and install the corresponding parts from the points model.
A problem area that the points-fired motors had was the special resistance wire that was used with the unballasted ign coil. My buddy and I found years ago that if you did away with that wire, and installed a high-performance car coil, you'll get a lot hotter spark. He also added an inline fuel filter to his old Evinrude, and that kept all the Nasties out of the finicky 4-bbl carb.
His old motor purred like a kitten and ran just as good as any modern outboard equipped with CD-ignition.
The old 100hp V4 makes a lot of power out of the same displacement block as the old Gas-Sucking 75hp V4, and except for full throttle (about 10 GPH), it'll burn a lot less than that ol' 75hp, too!
Just don't pay a premium price for the motor, since it can't be heard to run. You could try oiling-up the cylinders and doing a compression test, but likely the owner won't want anyone wrenching on his stuff.
But if it's a good deal, and the motor, being as clean & nice as you say, I wouldn't hesitate to jump at it. There's pleny of old Johnrude Mavens that will relish the chance to help bring the ol' V4 back to life.
BTW you can probably find an extra prop or 2 on eBay. As I recall, that model may have had a larger-diameter prop shaft (part of the Heavy-Duty design).
Any links to the ad, or pics of the motor? That'd be cool!
HTH & G'luck..........ed
p.s. I found 12 props on eBay, including a new one, from $32 to about $90!
Follow Ed's advice. He walked me through the transition from a bad CD ign to a coil and points. Even found a distributor on EBay for me. Never had a problem since. I'll post lots of pictures if needed. Hot coil, ballast resistor, points and condensers should be all you need.
My Meteor would start right up but when warm after a few minutes would start missing and just head south after that.
You might want to pick up a new timing belt also, they tend to get a little stiff and crackie. Mine failed out on the water and had to get towed in by the local sheriff dept. boat.
So, trying to tilt the motor doesn't work, but I have narrowed it down to specifically what is NOT happening. In the attached diagram, you will see the parts I am referencing. For whatever reason, the catch (#34) is not releasing from the bar (#45) when I release the tab at the top (#33).
When I flip the release bar(#33) from lock to release and visa versa, tension is either created or released.
All of the pieces including 32, 74 and 75 are there, but I don't think that 74 and 75 and 32 are attached properly.
Does anyone have a photograph of how the tilt mechanism is attached?
Also, is the cable attached to #39 that should be unlocking the mechanism?
I have a complete tilt lever, cable, clamp etc. etc. and will dig it out sometime today to take pictures for you. Sounds like maybe the cable loosened up from the lock mechanism below, it's on a bolt type that just squeezes against the cable.
This is what I removed from my meteor when the t/t was installed. I think the highlighted piece might have loosened up on you or the cable broke. I don't have the paddle part, snapped when I tilted the motor but I do have another one somewhere.
Thank you. Although the cable wasn't loose, it was not tight enough to pull the catch up. And we broke the lever when we reinstalled it, so I ordered another one. Apparently, it should be taped down when you tilt the motor otherwise it will break right off.
STEERING- So I'm being advised by multiple sources to change the steering to mechanical.
I'm thinking of going to the Teleflex 4.2 Tilt rotary system.
I understand I need the transom bracket to hold the steering cable. Does anyone know what parts (better yet what they look like) I need to connect the steering cable to the front of the engine?
Okay, experts. I have some questions after disassembling the lower unit and extension today. They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words.
So, I'm attaching the pictures of the parts I took off the engine today. First, is there anything glaring about its condition? There seems to be some oil that is pooling at the top of the gearcase assembly. Having said that, there wasn't a gasket between the lower unit and the upper unit.
The other questions I have are regarding the diagram I am attaching.
Extension part 8 (312099) is not in this engine. It doesn't show optional in the diagrams I am looking at. This is a 20" length. Do you think that needs to be there?
Also, I don't see any "o" rings on the actual driveshaft into the upper unit. Just want to make sure I"m not missing something.
And lastly, how do you like to prime gaskets when you install them.
Looks pretty good to me. That extension should prolly be there. Guess the PO lost it? A light skim of Silicon would be good on the gasket under the water pump plate.After I checked on line,you might be able to get the gaskets for the 5" extension top and bottom. I found both gaskets on ebay. If you can't locate the missing tube,member.. Minnesota Fiberglass Museum may be able to help you out.
Here's the other gasket that goes between 5" ext and the lower unithttp://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-312751-Johnson-Evinrude-Gasket-Free-US-Shipping-/261256189046?hash=item3cd4151476:g:fA8AAMXQhuVRRy6H&vxp=mtr
Dave, really hard for me to tell from the photo but some fine metal would be normal. Your pic seems a little excessive but I would not worry about gear failure. Was the LU worked on at all? Sometimes a new set of gears take time to wear in.
Just keep the proper lube in there and I think you are good. IMHO or course
I recently got the Johnson to work and start in my driveway on a hose. No issues really other than the idle needed to be adjusted.
I took it to the Delta yesterday and put it in the water. When we tried to start it, I got no spark. I guess this surprised me because even after sitting for 5 years, it pretty much started on the first time. Also, someone said they were able to turn it over in gear not just neutral. So, I'm not sure if safety switches suddenly go bad or if that is preventing it from sparking.
Some people suggested it could be the safety switch.
The items I had completed so far:
Changed gearcase oil, rebuilt water pump, and put in some new seals. The engine started fine after that.
The only thing that changed between it running and not running.
I changed out the spark plugs to new ones. I gapped and checked them. I also removed the distributor cap to see if the timing marks lined up.
I'm probably going to have to take it to a shop, but if there are any suggestions of things to test, I'm all ears.
Rule # 30027 of old outboard 100hp Johnsons. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Just kidding of course.
We know it was running, saw the video. Changing/gapping plugs won't stop the spark but...pulling the distributor sounds like the problem. Those primary wires are pretty much just shoved into place, some are screwed. If you have no spark to any plug suspect the distributor to coil wire, make sure it is clean and tight in position. Just like the older saying "make sure the plug is in".
This is from my '67. There was a major change over between '66 and '67, they went from conventional ign to CD, the first generation CD's sucked and were prone to failure so Bruce took me by the hand to convert to '66 specs.
Okay, because I don't know any better, let me at least ask the following.
If I have no spark it is because of the potential following reasons:
1. Battery (Checked and charged and was working)
2. Spark Plug Wires ( I feel like these need to be changed)
3. Spark Plugs (Checked ohms on a multimeter and seemed to be working)
4. Distributor Cap (Nothing to it, center spring and tip are there, looks new)
5. Condenser and Points (Also look new)
6. Coil- Looks to be original
About 7~8 volts is what you should get on the distributor side of the ballast resistor.
So you can position the motor so the points are closed? Then turn on the ignition and using a small dowel or a fat tooth-pick, manually open and close the points. you should get a spark off the coil wire if the end is anywhere near a metal surface.
If nothing happens you may have a shorted points to coil lead wire. A tiny spot rubbed through will do it and it will be intermittent.
On old motors, I almost always make a new points lead wire with some finely stranded electronics test lead. It's very flexible and forgiving.
Once you get the coil sparking on command, you can chase down the other stuff
So my buddy and I had a few minutes to look at the motor today. We did find the safety switch was busted, but that doesn't really seem to be the issue.
However, one issue we think we have is at the coil wires. It is supposed to register 12 volts. It does at the battery. But at the coil, it is only 6.73 volts on the multimeter.
I don't know if that was preventing it from turning over because it was raining and we didn't have a chance to test start it.
If your ign is all stock, these have a ballast "wire" that is a set resistance, right in the wiring harness. So the wire does the job of an external ballast resistor. Sometimes these ballast wires go bad and cause problems. But I suspect your problem lies either with dirty points or a bad rotor.
The points can't be inspected properly without removing them, then cleaning with a points file or medium sandpaper, and burnishing with crocus cloth. Degrease the contacts, reinstall and gap .020".
Pull the coil wire and check for spark directly out of the coil. You can unscrew or otherwise remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and then plug it back into the coil.
Spark should jump from the end of the coil wire to the block, like a Mad Dog. If it doesn't have a healthy, crackling spark that'll jump at least 1/2" to the block, it ain't gonna run.
If you find you have good spark at the coil but not thru the distributor, the most common cause of that is a bad rotor.
Replaced a lot of grounded rotors, the bakelite material fails then spark jumps directly to the distributor shaft.
I changed out the coil to an automotive coil and it starts beautifully. I have some inconsistent tach readings and my idle is off, but so far, it has been very reliable this summer.
That was my buddy's experience with his old 90hp V4. He used a Mallory Super Coil with an external ballast, and got rid of the factory ballast wire. The motor ran like a Swiss watch. He also installed an inline fuel filter and that made the 4-bbl carb happy and much more reliable.
Note that when you install a car coil, if you use the OMC factory ballast wire, you need a coil marked for "external ballast".
Otherwise you'd get rid of that ballast wire (which can be problematic anyway), and could then use a car coil with internal ballast, or the aforementioned external-ballast coil with separate resistor.
Best improvement you can make on these. Cheers......ed
Great to hear you got it running. I have a 66 100hp Golden Meteor that has never been opened. Like the previous one stated " Do not fix it if it aint broke".
I also by passed the safety switch on the water and never have got around to fixing it.
The coil was replaced by an auto coil (Corvette) as mine too would not fire and lose power if it did. Keep it lubed, watch the plugs and run it run it run it.