Looks a lot like mine at the transom (hopefully the file uploaded.) If you haven't done one of these before, I have a couple of suggestions. First, get a cheap 4.5 inch angle grinder from Harbor Freight for about $12. Buy the 2 year free replacement warranty and a diamond wheel (also Harbor Freight) for grinding concrete. The wheel will quickly do the heavy fiberglass and resin removal (although it vibrates pretty hard) but will be hard on the grinder. If it fails (mine did) Harbor Freight will replace it free if you have the warranty. Second, remove the transom wood but try to keep the outside fiberglass skin in tact. I learned this from an article in the archive by a guy who replaced the transom in under a week. I think it's much easier than cutting out the glass and having to blend new glass into the sides. It also gives you an easy to follow template for the replacement wood.
Seacast has been used very successfully in a lot of projects, but since the inner fiberglass is damaged/missing in this boat it may be just as easy and somewhat lighter to replace with plywood. I have always found that the removal of the old transom wood is the biggest part of the job. Once that is done, putting in replacement wood is not too bad.
On a G3 it may be worthwhile since I thought someone mentioned they have a curved transom?
I think the curve on the G-3 transom is 15 degrees.
Chris, I think I still have some of the old "Airguide" Gauges
(speedometer and tachometer) that came with our 1960 Seafair Sedan.
If you want them for your G-3 you are welcome to them Sir! As you know, I have all new "Mercury" Gauges in both our G-3 and the
In regard to the transom curve, this is what I got from Doc Frankenmerc:
The curve is 186-1/2 radius
The curved transom is made up of laminated 3/8" sheets of plywood. Being only 3/8" they flex pretty well, so what I did was glue them in one sheet at a time, clamp and let set. The stock G3 transom is 4 sheets thick. I, and other that I know have used 5 layers... which leaves you with a transom that is just over 2" thick when you count the outer hull and inner glass skin.
Dean, I have seen the process of building a curved transom somewhere on here. I wish I had a G3 to apply the principle to. Then I would need to track down a short shaft inline 6 Merc and find a way to convince the Admiral why I need another derelict boat in the yard.....
Correct, this is a plan view (from above) of a horizontal level, between the two 'points' of the sponsons.
Dimensioned drawings are available of the bench seat plywood patterns – do you have these yet? I can find them if you want. Bucket seats are fine for the open cockpit but I think benches are preferable in the centredeck version.
The centre deck and its vertical support have an advantage of adding rigidity to the boat as does the splash well tray when securely affixed.
Enjoy your rest.