Started work on my 65 G3 restore this weekend . Cleaned the transom ready for new wood , using 4 layers of 3/8 ply that I have pre bent .Using aircraft grade epoxy resin to bond wood to glass ,applied resin and 1 layer of glass to the wood and wet out the transom with resin , placed the wood and am using 12 bolts with blocks to attach wood to hull , will let this cure and apply another ply of wood each night until I have the for plies.
Finished up bonding in 4 plies 3/8 plywood in the transom . Then started sanding the down the paint to get to the gelcoat , three paint jobs and one had clear coat , try to sand but would have taken a week so I got the paint stripper out and got the paint of a lot quicker , finished with DA sander and 40 grit paper . This week will try to get splashwell bonded in a couple layers of glass on the transom and foam the floor stringers.
Will go back to same color when finishing , really like the baby blue and white original gelcoat.
Had to go north and close up the cottage for the winter so have not got much done in the last week plus its hard to work in the garage when the Blue Jays are playing so good . But I have got some work done on the engine slash well . Got it fitted the way I want and mixed resin and milled fiber and bonded in place will smoothen out and add a couple layers of glass to make it strong . Will glass it to the transom later but I still want to remove the top so I can finish the in side and fix under the deck.
Split the deck and bottom on the weekend and started grinding the inside , two nights of grinding but finally got it done. Cut a piece of ply for the floor and will cover with cloth and epoxy .
Is it a good idea to fill the stringers with foam to make them stiffer , plan to foam floor after install and also fill the side sponsons with foam.
I got the floor and hull all ready for gluing down , mixed up a batch of epoxy with milled glass and milled carbon fiber and put it in a plastic freezer bag cut the corner and used it to spread on formers to glue floor down
then I screwed the floor down and cover screws with the resin and fiber let the resin harden then poured foam to fill any gaps under floor
when the foam cured I shaved off the excess and cover with resin and fiber . Next step will be to cover floor and any week spots with resin and cloth and get ready for paint
Just finished getting a couple coats of polyurethane paint on the inside , was going to paint grey as I get expired paint from work but I added a little blue to see what color I could get . If I add a little more blue this might work for the outer hull very hi gloss paint when finished .
Hi hod gift, that seems to be really moving along nicely! You mentioned earlier in your thread that you prevent the plywood (I assume the transome is curved). How did you bend it and have it retain the curve? Thanks!
How I did it was I used four layers 3/8 plywood and I glued one layer at a time and let it dry over night before continuing . In the pictures you can see I waxed up about 20 1/4 inch nuts and bolts and made some flat squares so I could bolt each layer of wood and sqeeze out the excess resin , the first layer took the curve of the glass transom and each following layer easily took the curved shape.
Started work on the deck today , all the bracing under the deck had come loose and made the top real flimsy , so before flipping to do the repairs I made some bracing while sitting on the bottom so it would keep the shape.
After flipping I ground all the loose bracing and cleaned all the wood so I could add more glass and resin and repaint before reattaching to the lower half.
Hey Talbot that's ok about the name. Flipping the top was pretty easy , even with the 2x4 bracing my son and I were able to just turn it on its side and then just roll it over. I think the trick will be when I rejoin it to the bottom and have to turn it in one piece, good thing I have two strong sons and a couple nephews that are always happy to lift and roll.
Came home from work early today and I got the top flipped over and then drilled some new rivet holes and installed clecos to holed things together , fit together perfectly happy I made the frame to holed the top rigid while I did the inside glass work . Now time to get started on glassing the transom and splash well.
Thanks Mark ,this one is going a lot easier than my 3 point restore of two years ago and a lot more enjoyable than the aluminum fishing boat I did last year. My next thing now will be keeping an eye out for next years restore , might take a look at a glastron Skiflyte that a buddy has siting in his back yard. Or will try to locate another 60s G3 Center Deck .
My name is Mark and this thread is going to be my bible for the next little while. LOL. I just found a 1960 G-3 Center Deck Ski Boat and I'll have to do many of the steps you went through so well as you went along. I may become a pain next spring when I get mine going so I'll apologize in advance ! Merry Christmas to you and nice work.
Hi Mark Hope you have fun on your rebuild , I will be here to help with anything I can and there are a lot of guys on this site with lots of helpful ideas. I recommend you read as many restorations as possible to help get a good plan put together for your project the more ideas you see will help . Most important is to figure out posting pictures , I have a program called ACDsee6.0 and its pretty old , but is easy for modifying and resizing pictures . Good luck and have a great time.
I'll see if I can find that. I tried one Mark recommended but like I said, I'm a bonehead. Al has invited over to the G-3 owners site so I'm going to check that out too. I've got all winter to read up and get ready. The no garage blues you know. LOL. Have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Has been a little slow working on the hull , have got some glass work done to the deck and started some filling and sanding . Also got a set of seats for fixing a friends transom and I am making some terry cloth covers for them as I will not be able to get them done with vinyl this year , might even look for a walking foot sewing machine so I can give it a try on my own . Also want to be able to make my own covers , heres a couple pictures
I have really enjoyed following your progress "hodgify".
Not sure why I can't see the latest pictures until I sign in and hit reply, but you are inspiring me to give old Wild Thanggg a full rebuild.
It is a '66 model.
It has been 'rode hard & put away wet' and is currently in pretty rough shape, but I really miss the "air time" and hope to resurrect it someday.
Neat thing about fiberglass,...It will be there - waiting.
Thanks Dr. Works been a little slow but hope to get restarted this week , hope to finish the top and then flip and start working on the bottom in 2 or 3 weeks . I have been having problems with the site also ,I have to hit the back button 2 or 3 times before it returns . I recently changed internet carriers and I am back to DSL ,thought that was the problem . They are in the process changing to fiber optics some time this month ,I cannot wait .
Have not gotten much done on the G3 , Had a scare with melanoma cancer lots of tests and some surgery but they say I am cancer free . So hope to get back once weather warms a little. Did get some work done on deck and transom , used milled fiber and epoxy to fix and fill any deep and bad cracks , then applied a thin layer of glass cloth and epoxy to complete upper deck and transom , then prepared surface for thin coat of body filler , let filler set for a couple of days to get real hard and now starting to sand with long board and touch up any low spots . Here are few pictures.
Thanks for posting all the pictures and product names you are using.
Do you know what outboard motor you will be using?
The reason I ask is since the transom has a curve to it, you may want to make a flat area on the aft side of the transom that is wide enough to give the motor a flat surface to fasten to.
I have attached a couple of old file pixs of what I added to Wild Thanggg to give the inline-6 Merc with power trim a flat surface to fasten to.
Hey Doc thanks for the advice . I hope to be putting a 1978 90hp Tower of power that I rebuilt last year . I will be making a jack plate for it similar to the one I made for my 3 pointer but will bend angle to allow for curve of transom . My question for you is I see Wild Thanggg has a pad and other mods to the hull , did they help handling and top end speed and do you have more pictures of the mods. As I will soon be flipping and starting on my hull and may still want to do a pad if it will help handling and speed.
Got the deck all sanded and ready for prime . Hope to get a couple coats on tomorrow and then will let it sit for a week or two before flipping and starting on bottom . Used two types of filler , Not to impressed with the way the NAPA filler went on . The Axon filler was great to spread and sanded real nice.
I got three good coats of Tempo epoxy primer on the deck Saturday ,looks smooth and lines look nice and straight . Will let it cure for the week and hope to flip it next week. Nice 50 degree weather so I got the hull out of the garage to clear some fumes and take pictures.
Today I was able to get my sons to help flip the boat so I can get started on the bottom . Pretty easy to flip with the three of us ,heres some pictures
then I put a couple of 2X6s across my wagon and then lifted the hull on to wagon
Started right into stripping layers of paint so I can get it in water before summers over.
While stripping paint I noticed one area that blistered up from when I poured the foam . Plan to cut out and replace the area . Anybody see a need for the fin or was this some ones attempt to make the boat turn better
Instead of a lot of sanding I got a gallon of paint stripper and used it this morning to get 5 to 6 layers of paint and primer of the bottom and then washed it down with water to neutralize the stripper , saved a lot of sanding and cost of sand paper .
Nice job and thanks for pictures. Now your project is making me re-think mine. I will be flipping my 1958 hull in a few months. I was initially going to sand, fill chip outs/deep scratches and fair...then was just thinking of applying a few layers of epoxy and a few layers of bottom coat. Now you have me wondering if I would be better off doing as you are doing and using woven cloth with my epoxy layers. Did you decide to do the cloth because you are strengthening due to the bottom cut-out repair?
Can anyone tell me what should be my decision maker of which way to go? If the hull is thick and firm to the fist pounding test then can I just fill, fair, and epoxy coat twice and finish coat twice? My boat is only 13'-6", not heavy and will likely only see a 40hp outboard (as it is NOT a performance hull like yours). Either way, I do not care if I gain a few pounds if it means the hull will be better of with additional cloth in the end. I want this boat to last another 60 years like it did the first 60.
I have always liked the G3's since a kid in the 60's...always stood out to me.
I did a 13.5ft 3 point hull 2 years ago , the deck was full of stress cracks and would have been impossible to grind them all and repair . So that's why I used the epoxy resin and thin layers of cloth on it .
Ran it pretty hard and seems to still be holding no cracks yet .So that's why I did the bottom of the G3 with glass and epoxy . I did a G3 back before epoxy was popular so I used polyester and mat for repairs and every time I took it out another crack would appear , I did the upper deck on this one and just used peelply saves on sandpaper the lower I took alittle further and vacuum bagged the bottom , will do the two side pods tonight and will not vacuum. I think the epoxy is the key , when cured it is not as brittle as the polyester and sticks just as good . Good luck with your hull.
Thanks much for that explanation. I think once I give both top and bottom a "before sanding" and "after sanding (and before fill and fair)", I will give everything a full inspection. My deck had been painted over by PO. When I look at it, it appears an actual disc grinder was used in many areas on a sharp angle leaving many scars...then also can see where sun had really dried and stressed that deck as I can see almost an Alligator looking tiny surface cracking under that paint...sanding to make all of that go away likely would take layers half way to original cloth...
so maybe sand best I can, fill and fair and sand to get straight lines back, and then see if your cloth and epoxy is the way to go on the deck. The bottom does NOT look like this (top was red, bottom was white). The bottom has chips and one 6" section where a tied off anchor rubbed and "arch" from swinging anchor that removed all surface but luckily did not tear through original woven cloth (but you can see it clearly with no covering). I am hoping the bottom can just be - sand, fill and fair...sand and then 2 epoxy coats without cloth (if it seems smooth, tough/strong, without cracking).
I am glad I saw your posts. Thanks again! Can't wait to see the rest of your project through to completion...G3's remind me of sports cars for the water. Mine won't quite have that "cool" factor, but if it floats, works, and looks nice, I will be happy.
Spent the last week sanding with the long board trying to get the bottom as smooth and straight as possible
then got up early this morning and got three good coats of polyurethane prime on the bottom and now have it out in the sun baking the primer dry.
Will start sanding to get it ready for paint next Saturday