I Used "Super Remover". paint varnish, & glue remover 'Gel formula'. I put it on very heavy and let it sit for 10-15 minutes and watched it lift the paint. Then scraped off the stripper and paint with a variety of putty knives. ITS A MESSY JOB. It seems that the trick with paint strippers is to be able to pour it on and let it sit. Brushing it on will not be nearly as effective, you really need a good thick layer of stripper to settle on the surface. I probably did 2 or 4 passes on each part of the the hull (bottom, then left & right sides)at roughly 45 minutes per pass including the scraping and wiping. my entire hull took 8-12 hours. Went right down to bare aluminum. I tried to be very meticulous.
The Gluvit is a good sealer but wont fill gaps larger than 1/16". Its really just good for the rivets. Regretfully I missed this and ended up with a few runs that are extremely difficult to sand down. the Gluvit sealer drys rock solid. AVOID RUNS! Dont make my mistake and try to lay it on heavy. it will run.
My budget ran out and I didn't plan to leave the boat in the water so ended up going with Tremclad oil based paint for metals over top of the primer. Anti-fouling marine paints are extreemly expensive in my opinion. They're designed to be low friction and deter marine life growth on the hull. I did some research and couldn't find any laws or regulations pertaining to what paints are allowed/not allowed for use on a boat (in my area). The Tremclad seems to have held on nicely. My boat isnt complete so not sure how its going to hold up on the lake.
This was all new learning experience for me, I've been at it since last July. (8 months off for winter & spring waiting for warmer weather to paint).
I'm surely not the only one doing it but Ill pass what I've learned on to you and anybody else it may help.
Good Luck! Want any more details just let me know.